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A&M OFFROAD

Now lots of white smoke

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@Fishfiles I didn't think about a chisel, but the hex on the cap wasn't a hex anymore it was a circle. I tried getting it off so many time with other stuff it literally rounded it. I could have cut into it and then maybe worked it around but I'll try this and see what happens

 

@SlammedRanger so before when I thought the valves were tight I was mistaken. I didn't have the machine at TDC... And we'll when I did, they were sooo tight that they wouldn't fit any of my feeler gauges! On all three valves that I could open, I had to loosen 4-5 full circles before I could fit the gauges in I couldn't believe how tight they were holy cow.

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A+M , even if it is rounded off , a blunt chisel will still  get them  off , if your JB weld job don't work out  

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11 minutes ago, A&M OFFROAD said:

@Fishfiles I didn't think about a chisel, but the hex on the cap wasn't a hex anymore it was a circle. I tried getting it off so many time with other stuff it literally rounded it. I could have cut into it and then maybe worked it around but I'll try this and see what happens

 

@SlammedRanger so before when I thought the valves were tight I was mistaken. I didn't have the machine at TDC... And we'll when I did, they were sooo tight that they wouldn't fit any of my feeler gauges! On all three valves that I could open, I had to loosen 4-5 full circles before I could fit the gauges in I couldn't believe how tight they were holy cow.

Wow! I cant believe it ran! Should have struggled to start real bad! If they were that tight!

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It doesn't even make sense to me how it could have. I did have trouble starting it most cold starts it wouldn't just fire right up I'd have to choke it and sit there for a min giving it gas to finally get it to run

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From reading this thread, u said u didn’t  separate the piston rings correctly ect..

 

Do it RIGHT

      Or

Do it TWICE

 

Just my words of Wisdom from EXPERIENCE....

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5 minutes ago, A&M OFFROAD said:

It doesn't even make sense to me how it could have. I did have trouble starting it most cold starts it wouldn't just fire right up I'd have to choke it and sit there for a min giving it gas to finally get it to run

You are extremely lucky your not hard on it! Had you floated them valves probably even once you would have had catastrophic failure! Valves cant be that tight! Your piston to valve clearance on stock engine is only 60 thousandths of an inch! Man you got extremely lucky! Maybe your luck isnt so bad after all! Had we not done anything and you push it harder and harder next thing you know you find the limiter a few times and you got yourself bent valves and a hole in the piston.

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Lets go over your valve adjustment procedure.

 

1st remove everything to get to and remove valve adjustment covers.

 

2nd remove the 2 side plugs and use a 17mm ratchet to find the T mark.(Only turn engine counter clockwise) Line up the line next to it with the line in the threads of the small hole.

 

3rd confirm TDC. Either remove spark plug and stick something in to feel piston top. Or visually inspect piston top at top of bore

 

4th confirm compression stroke. All 4 rocker arms should be loose. And cam lobes be facing downward.

 

5th loosen locknut and insert feeler gauge. Turn flat tip on tappet until you feel a steady drag on the feeler gauge. Use an open end wrench to put flat tip through it and snug down. After snug torque nuts to 18 ft lbs. Do this on all 4

 

6th re-check all 4 valve clearances after one full revolution of the engine by hand! Confirming TDC and compression stroke again before hand.

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Did not check to see if piston was touchable, did not know I could actually do that. 

 

How do you see the cam lobs if the cover is on? 

 

I've also never torqued them down before either!

 

Also have not recheck the valves after turning it by hand!

 

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11 minutes ago, A&M OFFROAD said:

Did not check to see if piston was touchable, did not know I could actually do that. 

 

How do you see the cam lobs if the cover is on? 

 

I've also never torqued them down before either!

 

Also have not recheck the valves after turning it by hand!

 

Case and point for why i do what i do! And why we are here on this forum bud. The best way to check the cam lobes is with a small flash light looking into the valve adjustment holes. I only do this when doing the first adjustment after a full rebuild. The easy way after that is to make sure all 4 rocker arms are loose. The main reason you do this is because on a 4 stroke engine the piston goes up to TDC on both the compression stroke and exhaust stroke. So the T mark can be lined up on both. You just want to be sure you are only adjusting valves when they are all the way closed.

 

Torquing the adjusters just makes them last longer between adjustments it seems to me atleast. Ever since i started doing that.

 

And turning it over by hand is a good idea for doing many things! Expecially when you time an engine! Your hand doesnt have enough torque to put a valve through a piston should something have been done wrong. Accidents happen. But a hole in a piston is forever. LoL

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Okay so I think I did have the stroke wrong but I figured it out now. Double checked after I hand turned the motor over several times. 

 

I got the lid off the jb weld didn't work but it gave me enough grip to get a vice on and torqued the ! out of it and it finally went.

 

I'm uploading a video to youtube right now and I'll put the link in the next post. Let me know if you think the motor sounds good! It sounds a ! of a lot better to me

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Yeah sounds perfect. Tighten the top motor mount though! It shouldnt spin like that! The only noise i heard was that and the loose valve covers. Hows the smoke?

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It's still smoking, I'll try to get a video of it and see what you guys think. And okay so those little bars shouldn't move on that mount?

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2 minutes ago, A&M OFFROAD said:

It's still smoking, I'll try to get a video of it and see what you guys think. And okay so those little bars shouldn't move on that mount?

Nope i crank that mount down hard! I wanna say the manual has a torque spec of somthing like 40 or 45 foot lbs. I dont really do that i just go till the bar doesnt move and then alittle harder.

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7 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

Nope i crank that mount down hard! I wanna say the manual has a torque spec of somthing like 40 or 45 foot lbs. I dont really do that i just go till the bar doesnt move and then alittle harder.

Okay! I'll do that and get it tight. I put the valve covers back on for now just not tight at all. 

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15 minutes ago, A&M OFFROAD said:

Okay! I'll do that and get it tight. I put the valve covers back on for now just not tight at all. 

Yeah those i just snug down. Very lightly. Ever since i had one get stuck and i had to destroy it to get it off. LoL

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8 hours ago, SlammedRanger said:

Nope i crank that mount down hard! I wanna say the manual has a torque spec of somthing like 40 or 45 foot lbs. I dont really do that i just go till the bar doesnt move and then alittle harder.

 

i never noticed the tubes spinning. but saw the vavle covers jumping,  that's the odd sound i heard to,  but I'm not a sport guy YET. but still looking for one. 

 

helpfull video @A&M OFFROAD

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