'01 350 ES, so many new parts, won't start

[dadhustle 35]

Okay, spoke too soon.  She wasn’t shifting in order, couldn’t get into reverse... odd.  Tried procedure again and now she won’t get our of - - instead of neutral.... its a great day though, confirmation all parts work!

 

any thoughts on this reset procedure?

[freebo86 291]

16 minutes ago, dadhustle said:

Okay, spoke too soon.  She wasn’t shifting in order, couldn’t get into reverse... odd.  Tried procedure again and now she won’t get our of - - instead of neutral.... its a great day though, confirmation all parts work!

 

any thoughts on this reset procedure?

When you were shifting was the bike stationary? If so, just rock the bike back and forth and it will lock into a gear and the indicator will update and hopefully show a grear #. 
 

Id your shifting up and down while bike is stationary it is normal for it to go maybe like 1, 2 and then - - until you rock it where it locks into gear. 
 

For reverse did you push the pin, pull the brake and then try going into reverse? You can’t go in reverse unless you depress the little pin by the left brake lever. 

Edited May 19, 2021 by freebo86

[dadhustle 35]

5 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

When you were shifting was the bike stationary? If so, just rock the bike back and forth and it will lock into a gear and the indicator will update and hopefully show a grear #. 
 

Id your shifting up and down while bike is stationary it is normal for it to go maybe like 1, 2 and then - - until you rock it where it locks into gear. 
 

For reverse did you push the pin, pull the brake and then try going into reverse? You can’t go in reverse unless you depress the little pin by the left brake lever. 

Hi there, I think I did, but truth.. was so pumped, I dunno.. I did get it back in to N but emergency shift, but now I’m back where I started, no action in the shift switches and I can’t get the reset procedure to kick again

[freebo86 291]

3 minutes ago, dadhustle said:

Hi there, I think I did, but truth.. was so pumped, I dunno.. I did get it back in to N but emergency shift, but now I’m back where I started, no action in the shift switches and I can’t get the reset procedure to kick again

Have you pulled the shift motor to inspect it? My shift motor crapped out on me a few months back.. couldn’t shift.. locked up in gear. The magnets completely destroyed inside the armature 

[dadhustle 35]

12 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Have you pulled the shift motor to inspect it? My shift motor crapped out on me a few months back.. couldn’t shift.. locked up in gear. The magnets completely destroyed inside the armature 

 

Hi there thank you and update -you may be onto something.  -I tinkered w/this so long I drained the battery a bit (note to buy a better battery).  After a night of charging, we have tested again this morning; things I notice:

 

She will shift, but not entirely -will read a - - on the display.  You have to rock it a bit and then she'll shift into gear.

After shifting into gear, the switches will not shift again.

To gain another e-shift, we turn the key off and on again -we can get a shift, but only one.  -the cycle repeats.

This is true for any matter of shifting R>>N N>>R N>>1 1>>2

 

I'm stoked though -she shifts!

 

Given this info, what do you all think? -Position sensor, shift motor?  -someone said shift drum, I hope not!

[Fishfiles 19,750]

Couple of things come to mind , the battery has to be in a fully charged condition for an ES or FE to work properly , so maybe get that new battery before going any farther ----- so did you remove the shift motor , clean it out and re-grease it ? doesn't sound like it from what I read , I think I would go there next 

[slowindown 494]

Definitely agree that it won't work right without a good battery with a good state of charge.  A bad battery even on the charger on the jump position often wont work even though it's enough to start the motor.  I had to replace the grease in mine last year (02 350).  The grease had turned into a gummy tar like substance.   I used mobil one synthetic recommended by retro in the link I'll post below.  I also cleaned the shift motor.  I used crc electrical contact cleaner for that. In addition to just adding new grease, you need to pack the little bearings as they'll have crappy grease in them too which needs to be pushed out.  You can do that with your fingers.  When I finished mine shifted like new. Be careful when taking the cover off, one of my bolts had rusted itself in which caused quite a pain in the butt removing after it broke off - I think that's fairly rare because I couldn't find any posts about it other than mine.  I'll add retros link and a couple of pics of what the old grease looked like.

 

 

Edited May 19, 2021 by slowindown

[dadhustle 35]

24 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Couple of things come to mind , the battery has to be in a fully charged condition for an ES or FE to work properly , so maybe get that new battery before going any farther ----- so did you remove the shift motor , clean it out and re-grease it ? doesn't sound like it from what I read , I think I would go there next 

Thanks @Fishfiles  I did not last night, but in the course of this long thread.. yep, been off several times and has been greased -upon inspection of all shift sensor area gears and that visible, externally of the shift motor -all look good, not chipped/missing teeth. 

[dadhustle 35]

1 minute ago, slowindown said:

Definitely agree that it won't work right without a good battery with a good state of charge.  A bad battery even on the charger on the jump position often wont work even though it's enough to start the motor.  I had to replace the grease in mine last year (02 350).  The grease had turned into a gummy tar like substance.   I used mobil one synthetic recommended by retro in the link I'll post below.  I also cleaned the shift motor.  In addition to just adding new grease, you need to pack the little bearings as they'll have crappy grease in them too which needs to be pushed out.  You can do that with your fingers.  When I finished mine shifted like new. Be careful when taking the cover off, one of my bolts had rusted itself in which caused quite a pain in the butt removing after it broke off - I think that's fairly rare because I couldn't find any posts about it other than mine.  I'll add retros link and a couple of pics of what the old grease looked like.

 

 

Great advice and detail -will do!  thank you @slowindown

[retro 3,872]

16 hours ago, dadhustle said:

Ooooohyyy Gosh, it worked!

 

key off>> hold up/down button>> key on, let go soon as it comes on>> heard a shift below >> hold throttle open>> let go off throttle.

 

display did not go back to N, but pushing switches, she is shifting!!!!!

 

Thank you Lord and thank you all here!

 

The '00-03 Rancher ES does not have that "feature". The '04-'06 Rancher ES uses a similar method to delete DTC codes from ECU memory. As time went on self-diagnostics have appeared on all Honda models, but the '00-'03 Rancher was not capable. So what you have done is interrupted the self-check procedure that occurs every time the ignition switch is turned on. Nothing more...

[retro 3,872]

3 hours ago, dadhustle said:

 

Hi there thank you and update -you may be onto something.  -I tinkered w/this so long I drained the battery a bit (note to buy a better battery).  After a night of charging, we have tested again this morning; things I notice:

 

She will shift, but not entirely -will read a - - on the display.  You have to rock it a bit and then she'll shift into gear.

After shifting into gear, the switches will not shift again.

To gain another e-shift, we turn the key off and on again -we can get a shift, but only one.  -the cycle repeats.

This is true for any matter of shifting R>>N N>>R N>>1 1>>2

 

I'm stoked though -she shifts!

 

Given this info, what do you all think? -Position sensor, shift motor?  -someone said shift drum, I hope not!

 

Replace the Angle sensor and Handlebar switches with genuine Honda parts. China knockoffs do not work on Honda's, they are completely useless garbage.

 

So it looks like your bike is gonna shift with the correct parts on it, congrats for hanging in there! Oh... and yeah, perform the one-time ES prep exactly as explained to optimize the ES, waterproof it and provide another couple decades of trouble-free life. 🙂

[dadhustle 35]

Just wanna say thanks again to all. Final update, I removed the amazon shift sensor and replaced with original.. she shifts, all 5 gears and reverse!  Now and again she won’t, putting back on, the old switches didn’t help.. so that and a battery has been ordered!

 

I have witnessed my son riding around 1st to 3rd!  So it does seem, we are on the right side of things.

 

She’s now backfiring, but atm I’m chalking that to our poor riding.  I’ll start a new thread if this become an issue 🙂

 

Oh and I will definitely follow the provided guide!

Great community here, very grateful to have so much help.

 

God Bless All,

RD

Edited May 20, 2021 by dadhustle

[Goober 1,555]

Adjustment to clutch might help

[Fishfiles 19,750]

On 5/19/2021 at 7:47 PM, dadhustle said:

 

 

She’s now backfiring, but atm I’m chalking that to our poor riding.  I’ll start a new thread if this become an issue 🙂

 

 

I can't see poor riding  cause backfiring , my first guess would be some water in the fuel ,  then a maybe a timing chain or valve adjustment issue 

[retro 3,872]

On 5/19/2021 at 8:47 PM, dadhustle said:

She’s now backfiring, but atm I’m chalking that to our poor riding.  I’ll start a new thread if this become an issue 🙂

 

A leaky exhaust can cause backfires too. Most exhaust leaks that cause backfires are found to be caused by a leaky gasket where the exhaust bolts onto the cylinder head, or sometimes a leak where the header pipe mates with the muffler.