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Bossdaddy

2001 Honda Foreman 450 ES, shifting problems

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Still reading nothing on b/g. On black/green I’ve got 12.4 v and bright light. 

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Good on the Black/Green with 12.4 volts.

 

That battery is pretty weak though, you may need to replace it soon. Until you can replace it, connect the battery charger up each time you try to test shift so we can be sure that enough current is available for the ES to function, as ES systems require a healthy, hot battery.

 

Now unplug the ignition CDI module 4p connector. Measure resistance between the Blue/Yellow inside the 16p shift ECM connector and frame ground. Plug the CDI back in. Post that measurement here.

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321 ohms is good, thanks.

 

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Reading 331. I’m done for today I’ve had it. Thanks for all the help, I’ll be back tomorrow. 

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Ok, have a good evening.

 

Lets begin Tuesday with everything plugged back in. Key on, clip your test light to ground and probe the Black/Orange and Red/Yellow wires on the exposed terminals of the main relay connector while the relay is plugged in. The test light should light up brightly on both wire colors.

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I have to run a few errands. I am heading out the door now and will be gone for a few hours Bossdaddy. I'll be back later.

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I understand totally, take your time, I've got plenty to do. Started to go into front brakes on the 2000. Need to put the 1995 up for sale before I start liking it to much.

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5 hours ago, Bossdaddy said:

I understand totally, take your time, I've got plenty to do. Started to go into front brakes on the 2000. Need to put the 1995 up for sale before I start liking it to much.

There is a disc conversion available for your 450 , superatv will be around $200 after the 10% discount for being a member of this site , you can get highlifter for about $369 ,the only difference is the highlifter kit has a USA made dual piston caliper , every other part is made in china ---- if your wheel cylinders are rusted , by the time you buy shoes and wheel cylinders , it is better to go disc --- what is your 1995  ? they didn't have 450s in 95 

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Thanks for the info. The 1995 is a Fourtrax 300, the cleanest one I seen in years, not restored looks mostly original.

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I would have a difficult time selling a TRX300FW if I had one. 🙂

 

Anyway, lets tinker with the Fan Control Unit and Oil temp sensor. I will be in and out throughout the afternoon as I am working outdoors today.

 

Key off, unplug both of the fan control unit connectors and measure resistance between the Light Blue in the 2p connector and the Green in the 4p connector. Your multimeter resistance mode should be set on the R x 1000 scale for this test and the motor should be cold. Post the result of that measurement.

 

Then turn the key on and measure DC volts between the Black/Brown and Green inside the 4p connector. Post that measurement. Clip your test light on ground and probe the same Black/Brown. Your test light should light up bright.

 

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I’m at the hunting camp 2 hrs from home with a chainsaw clearing out a road, unexpectedly, I’ll be home later if this thing don’t kill me. Can’t wait to get started again. 

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This next test can be done two different ways:

 

Option #1: If the skid plate is NOT bolted on under the motor, plug both connectors back in to the FCU. Reach under the motor and unplug the light Blue wire from the Oil Temperature Sensor. Turn the key on then momentarily ground the barrel terminal on the end of the Light Blue wire to the aluminum motor cases. The Oil temp light on the display meter should light up bright and the Cooling Fan motor should run.

 

Option #2: Plug the 4p FCU connector back in, but leave the 2p FCU connector unplugged. Identify and make a mental note of which of the two small spades inside the FCU 2p socket are for the Pink wire, and which spade is for the Light Blue wire.

Poke a small jumper wire into the Pink wire terminal inside the 2p harness connector. Find a nearby bolt on the frame that you can loosen easily and attach a 2nd jumper wire under that loosened bolt (a frame ground) and snug the bolt up. Turn the key on and touch the Pink wire jumper to the small (Pink wire) spade inside the FCU 2p socket, while also touching the frame ground jumper wire to the small (Light Blue) spade inside the 2p socket. The Oil temp light on the display meter should light up bright and the Cooling Fan motor should run.

 

Remove those two jumper wires and tighten the frame bolt back down that was loosened.

 

EDIT: I just noticed that my spare 450 wiring harness has a bare Pink wire. Apparently the Pink wire rubbed against the frame and is worn through the insulation next to where the Pink wire enters the Green 2p FCU connector. Check your wires over carefully for similar damages.

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With the transmission in Neutral, key on, clip your test light onto the Positive battery terminal. Probe your test light into the Light Green/Red wire terminal inside the 16p shift ECM harness connector. The test light should illuminate brightly.

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Unplug the regulator/rectifier 5p connector. Set your multimeter to a low resistance scale so that you can measure ohms in tenths. Probe one of the Yellow wires inside the 5p regulator harness connector with one multimeter lead, then probe each of the remaining two Yellow wires inside the 5p regulator harness connector with your other multimeter lead. Write those two resistance figures down.

 

Probe a different Yellow wire inside the 5p regulator harness connector with one multimeter lead, then probe each of the remaining two Yellow wires inside the 5p regulator harness connector with your other multimeter lead. Write those two resistance figures down.

 

Finally, probe the last Yellow wire inside the 5p regulator harness connector with one multimeter lead, then probe each of the remaining two Yellow wires inside the 5p regulator harness connector with your other multimeter lead. Write those two resistance figures down.

 

Post those six resistance measurements here.

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Then probe each of the same three Yellow wires with a multimeter lead while your 2nd multimeter lead is poked into the Green wire terminal inside the 5p Regulator harness connector. Write each of those three resistance measurements down and post them here.

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Posted (edited)

I can’t keep them all, I’ve got a all original 1988 300 spacer.pngsitting beside it that I bought new, got to many. I’m headed to shop 

BC7FEA75-2435-4134-8567-475CDF59F586.jpeg

Edited by Bossdaddy
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My meter don’t have 1000 setting. Lowest setting could get a reading was 20k. Light blue to green was 12.37. Black/brown to green with charger connected 13.83 no charger 12.55. Light was bright. 

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The red light comes on when just the ground jumper is touching the blue spade. 

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In the rectifier test yellow to yellow had the same reading 0.05 and green to all yellow all had reading of OL

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