retro 4,048 Posted June 2, 2021 We are running out of circuits to test aren't we? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 2, 2021 I don't have a clue about what is left to check. I haven't heard from anybody for a while, I thought maybe y'all had given up on this one. I knew you had visitors and I'm sure Melatv has a life besides messing with me all the time. I'm afraid we are not going to find anything. Then I'm screwed. Anyway glad you're back on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted June 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Bossdaddy said: I don't have a clue about what is left to check. Check this out : https://hondaesshiftkit.com/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 Thanks Fishfiles, very interesting stuff. If all fails I might have to look in to this, I think these guys will get me fixed up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted June 3, 2021 I am going to read this thread again to see if we missed anything. Be back tomorrow after I study a bit... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 I appreciate the effort, I'm afraid I did some of the test wrong and gave you the wrong data. This thing was shifting perfect and quit for no reason just being used normally then for no reason it started shifting normally again for about two days then quit again and has never shift again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,599 Posted June 3, 2021 Electrical gremlins can be a major PITA to figure out, but I've had @retro and @Melatv walk me through some tough ones. Frustrating, but stick with it! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 (edited) I believe in these guys and I'm not giving up on them. I'm worried more about if I'm doing my part right. Edited June 3, 2021 by Bossdaddy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 HI: I am back home again --- Okay lets start with the Battery test -- place your meter leads on the battery and leave them on while doing the test -- take a reading then turn the head lights on for 30 seconds voltage will drop -- turn lights off voltage should ramp back up to what the meter read before turning lights on. what did you see. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 Battery reading 12.4 v, after lights on 30 seconds 11.81v, after lights turned off 12.15v 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 Okay battery is good -- bike will start and run? -- when you turn key on bike shows neutral light on display? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 Yes, starts and runs. With key on neutral light is on and temp light comes on and goes off, sometimes temp light stays on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 Good -- Unplug the connector for shift up & Dn buttons and check for 5VDC on the Bl/R wire --- everything else plug in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 Retro jump in here to help with this trouble shooting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 Help me , which connector is that, location Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted June 3, 2021 Just now, Melatv said: Retro jump in here to help with this trouble shooting I am still rereading this thread but will jump in soon. Thanks Mel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted June 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Bossdaddy said: Help me , which connector is that, location The 3p connector that branches off from the green connector that is clipped to the frame on the left side of the steering head. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 I got 5.08 on male plug 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 Okay connect shift buttons backup again and unplug the angle sensor and check for 5VDC on the Bl/R wire harness side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 I got 5.7v on harness side 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 Good -- connect the angle sensor backup and (key off) unplug the ECU and check for continuity for the shift Up & DN buttons -- on the Harness side for the ECU check for continuity on the Bl/R to the W/Bu wire when to push the Up button = what? --- then check for continuity on the Bl/R wire to the W/Bu wire when you push the DN button = what? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 I got no response from either reading on meter, it acted like I never hooked it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted June 3, 2021 Lets try again.... with the key off, with the shift switches 3p connector plugged in, with the angle sensor plugged in, unplug the 16p ECM connector. Meter set on continuity (or resistance) mode. Inside the 16p ECM connector (harness side) check for continuity between the Black/Red and the White/Blue while you are depressing the UP shift button on the handlebar. Inside the 16p ECM connector (harness side) check for continuity between the Black/Red and the White/Yellow while you are depressing the DOWN shift button on the handlebar. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted June 3, 2021 Retro -- good check for the White/Yellow (not W/Bu) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 3, 2021 W/y good, found another w/b and it’s good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
