Jump to content
Bossdaddy

2004 Honda Foreman 450 ES, shifting problems

Recommended Posts

My god don't say that. I'm scared to death just trying to get the front cover off. I'd probably use it for parts before I did that, lol. 

Edited by Bossdaddy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, Bossdaddy said:

My god don't say that. I'm scared to death just trying to get the front cover off. I'd probably use it for parts before I did that, lol. 

You can do it , I grinded the case of my 450 for gear reduction under the front cover with the engine still in the frame -----  it is  just that I think you might  be digging into it deeper than just the cover , I hope I am wrong  ----  I think your going about it right for now , maybe it winds up  being  an easy fix 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Well the cover is off and here is what I found, Naturally the broken bolt is my biggest concern, I need to find a good drawing or picture of the area. Any help or advice will be appreciated.

 

 

IMG_2044.jpg

IMG_2045.jpg

IMG_2046.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

This drawing retro sent me shows the broken bolt, I'm pretty sure , I will check closer to be sure. It's the bolt at the bottom of the drawing, the only bolt in that section, labeled 16 N*m

 

 

 

 

 

 

gearshift-linkage1.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Here is where the bolt is supposed to be, right under the long spring, I think.

 

IMG_2048.jpgIMG_2047.jpg

Edited by Bossdaddy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 
 

remove all the shifting parts that are over the end of the shift drum right there in the pics. center punch the rest of the broken bolt still in the end of the shift drum, start with a small drill bit, work your way up to, and as close as the inside of the threaded hole, then run a 6mm ( metric ) tap down the threads of the shift drum end, problem solved.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

You've got good guys on your team Bossdaddy. 😀

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

If you have a DC welding machine , there are Chronatron Stud removing rod sold at the welding supply , these things are amazing , the flux on side the rods will not stick to the thread of a blind hole , you stick the rod right down the middle of the bolt hole , it will start building up chrome metal attached to the broken stud  , when you get to the top of the hole , you place a hex nut over the hole , stick the rod thru the hole and continue to build metal till the nut is welded to the new stud   ---- this is the process for removing broken head bolts  ----  if you don't feel comfortable doing it or have the welding machine , then maybe there is a welding shop in your area that will do it for you 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

If you have a DC welding machine , there are Chronatron Stud removing rod sold at the welding supply , these things are amazing , the flux on side the rods will not stick to the thread of a blind hole , you stick the rod right down the middle of the bolt hole , it will start building up chrome metal attached to the broken stud  , when you get to the top of the hole , you place a hex nut over the hole , stick the rod thru the hole and continue to build metal till the nut is welded to the new stud   ---- this is the process for removing broken head bolts  ----  if you don't feel comfortable doing it or have the welding machine , then maybe there is a welding shop in your area that will do it for you 

That's pretty cool.  I looked those up - was unaware of them.  I've welded nuts on broken bolts but not down a hole.

 

I've had some luck with a left handed drill bit set I bought at harbor freight.

Edited by slowindown
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I've never heard of those, I'll have to ask my black smith friend Steve Williamson..... he can do just about a thing with metal, but I've done the same lefted handed bits, welded nuts etc.. but never had a bolt twist off counter sunk, that i couldn't get out. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Another old school trick , take copper pipe or copper tube as close to the OD side of the blind thread hole with the broken bolt in it  , put the tube into the hole , put the MIG welding wire into the tube , pull the trigger and let the weld build up inside  the tube till it extended out the hole then either weld a nut to it or grab it with pliers , the weld won't stick to the copper 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
18 hours ago, shadetree said:

remove all the shifting parts that are over the end of the shift drum right there in the pics. center punch the rest of the broken bolt still in the end of the shift drum, start with a small drill bit, work your way up to, and as close as the inside of the threaded hole, then run a 6mm ( metric ) tap down the threads of the shift drum end, problem solved.

 

Or, use left handed drill bits, again like Shade said, starting small.  A lot of the times the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

If they have Lock-Tite on the threads , you need to heat it up first , think it is 250 for blue and 400 for red , when you get it to temp it will puff a smoke signal , pufffff  -----   it looks like that bolt was run loose for a little while , I say that cause there are marks on the gear shift plate , if so that might make it harder as the last thread might be bent over 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I think I should remove the centrifugal clutch and clutch pack before I start removing the shifting parts from the end of the shift drum. Do y'all agree? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
10 hours ago, Bossdaddy said:

I think I should remove the centrifugal clutch and clutch pack before I start removing the shifting parts from the end of the shift drum. Do y'all agree? 

 

I don't have an ES other than parts bikes  , so hard to say , more clearance is a good thing ------- but remember if you are drilling , it all has to be cleaned up after it is over , so the more you get out the way and tape  or rag up , they less shavings will get into it ------ when I done my reductions , it took an extreme amount of grinding , a hand full of aluminum shavings -----  I used rags , masking paper and tape to not let it get into the engines  ---- you won't be that extreme  , but I would try and  catch all the shavings 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I am a welder and I have welding machines but I think I will try everything before the welding begins. Thanks for all the info, very informative. If the engine was out and on a table it might be different. Thanks for all the input we will see what I got then figure out the direction to go, Thanks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 

It must have came loose , it is beat up pretty good ---- was the shifting acting up any prior 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...