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Orvis25

Trx300FW - Front Differential Cone Washer Mod

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Hey guys! 

Here is a quick tutorial on how to do the front diff cone washer mod on the TRX300FW series. 

The purpose of the mod is to make the differentials clutch packs on each side "slip" less, so it is not in 3x4 mode ("three wheel drive") by increasing the pressure applied to them.
This "should" force them to be engaged more often, hence giving you 4x4 more frequently, even under "normal" circumstances. 

One downside to this mod will be the fact that because it is engaged more (slipping less often) it will be harder to steer and turn. Just as a FYI. 

 

Parts: 
2x cone washers (Part #: 42535-HA7-671)

Tools: 
Impact (electric or air)
e10 torx socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
Blue (or red) Loctite (or other thread locker)
degreaser (brake cleaner, etc)
50+ Q-tips (for cleaning threads)

Here is my video on how to take the front diff apart and install the cone washers:


Hope it helps you all out!
 
I saw a lot of people talking about this mod, but there where no videos of how to install it, so... I made one 🙂 

If it helped make sure to drop a thumbs up on the video or heart the post (or both)!

Note:
I accept no responsibility if you damage your stuff (or self) trying to replicate (or use) this mod. Do it at your own risk. 

Edited by Orvis25
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I have also done  the same mod to the 1998-2001 TRX450 FM and the 450 S , the TRX400 is also the built the same way and uses the same cone washers  , but the 2002-2004 TRX450  front diff is made differently 

 

So did you drive it yet , what's your take 

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actually there is another video posted here, by fish, but it uses washers along with the shims you speak of and @Wheeler has a new kind of locker, hopefully he will be online later to post about it here. 

 

just do a search on the word Milton, should be two threads. i find this mod very interesting, and thank you for the video. 

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6 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I have also done  the same mod to the 1998-2001 TRX450 FM and the 450 S , the TRX400 is also the built the same way and uses the same cone washers  , but the 2002-2004 TRX450  front diff is made differently 

 

So did you drive it yet , what's your take 

Yes, I saw a video about the 400 mod, but since the diff was different i wanted to do one for the 300. 

I have not yet, I'm waiting for my oil seals to come in. 

PS: What what's your take on the mod? I assume you like it if you did this mod multiple times. 

PSS: did you Loctite blue or red the bolts back in? 

thanks for the like btw 🙂

Edited by Orvis25

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5 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

actually there is another video posted here, by fish, but it uses washers along with the shims you speak of and @Wheeler has a new kind of locker, hopefully he will be online later to post about it here. 

 

just do a search on the word Milton, should be two threads. i find this mod very interesting, and thank you for the video. 

Yes, there was a video floating around for this mod being done to the trx350/400 series, but since the differential is different, I chose to do a video on how to perform this mod on a TRX300 differential. 
I acknowledge this, and the other options (like tractor supply washers) in the video. 

Here is the 350 Forman one I got the idea from, but again, its NOT a TRX300 differential he shows.
Because of this, I wanted to make one for the community that shows how to do the mod with an ACTUAL TRX300 differential:

 

Edited by Orvis25

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Yes I went with the new Torq locker. It was super easy to install & works amazing. I reviews it a couple times (or gave updates on my thoughts). It’s great but believe it’s best suited with a 424 or unless u have a dedicated mud bike without the 424. I installed mine for the purpose that u have mentioned about the 3 wheel spin. I NEED my bike to get through or out of anything, as I ride a lot by myself & deep in the bush. It’s got me out of a couple spots so far.. only one spot last fall it didn’t & I had to winch out.. the shim washer idea is awesome though! 

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2 minutes ago, Wheeler said:

Yes I went with the new Torq locker. It was super easy to install & works amazing. I reviews it a couple times (or gave updates on my thoughts). It’s great but believe it’s best suited with a 424 or unless u have a dedicated mud bike without the 424. I installed mine for the purpose that u have mentioned about the 3 wheel spin. I NEED my bike to get through or out of anything, as I ride a lot by myself & deep in the bush. It’s got me out of a couple spots so far.. only one spot last fall it didn’t & I had to winch out.. the shim washer idea is awesome though! 

I saw that Torq part, but could not justify the near $500 cost, on top of the fact I was concerned about long term reliability when its paired with a 424 switch out (that i cant acquire, since I don't need 100% 4x4) since in my case, it would be doing the "non powered" ratcheting thing where it like skips over the engagement teeth for most of its life. 

Ultimately I went with the more cheaper "OEM, mod" rout since it suited my needs/budget ($16 shipped for the pair),

I'm hoping it will be a nice improvement for us more "casual" riders that just need a bit more engagement when doing things like plowing or hauling. 
 

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49 minutes ago, Orvis25 said:

Yes, I saw a video about the 400 mod, but since the diff was different i wanted to do one for the 300. 

I have not yet, I'm waiting for my oil seals to come in. 

PS: What what's your take on the mod? I assume you like it if you did this mod multiple times. 

PSS: did you Loctite blue or red the bolts back in? 

thanks for the like btw 🙂

here is a pic I took a awhile back , you can see the two deep tire rings in the dirt , inner most ring is the 92 300 with just the shims in the front diff , the outer ring is with the 424 swichout kicked out , don't have a pick without the shims  , it would be even a tighter turning radius circle  --- it won't let me load that pic right now  

 

I only use the red Loctite , even though you might find some blue around here , I try not to use it  

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10 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

here is a pic I took a awhile back , you can see the two deep tire rings in the dirt , inner most ring is the 92 300 with just the shims in the front diff , the outer ring is with the 424 swichout kicked out , don't have a pick without the shims  , it would be even a tighter turning radius circle  --- it won't let me load that pic right now  

 

I only use the red Loctite , even though you might find some blue around here , I try not to use it  

I heard not to use blue (even though the OEM diff seems to use blue), but I opted to not use red in case I ever need to re-disassemble to replace those friction pads in the front diff. 
Another reason is during my first attempt at disassembling (before the video), I already damaged one of those e10 bolt heads on the first removal (since the torx bits don't sit flushly on the bolt head, at least mine didn't, this was my first time ever using them).
That being the cease, I am not convinced I could extract it a second time successfully if it was held in there with something even stronger (red grade). 

I guess I am taking a "risk" by using blue, but at the same time the OEM used blue so... 

*fingers crossed*

Edited by Orvis25

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So I know this mod makes turning a PITA, but if you do this mod on a Honda with selectable four-wheel-drive is it still hard turning or not so much?

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@jeepwm69
I would assume that by "selectable" you mean that it has like a lever / mode (burron) that engages the 4wd within the differential (electrically or otherwise). 

I honestly don't know for sure, as i have only ever owned 2 atv's (trx200sx, and my trx300fw).

I would assume the following, but I'm not a technician or mechanic


1) That if the differential on the "selectable" one engages/disengages the 4wd by compressing the slip disks (by like an electric motor or something), that this mod would enhance the pressure applied, but still allow it (4wd) to be disabled, but I don't know for sure (It could also add strain on the engagement mechanism since there is more resistance).That said, when in 4wd mode it would most likely be more of a pain since it would slip less. 


2) If it enables it (4wd) via some axle switch out method (like a 424) it will probably still be hard to turn (I assume) since the washers would always be compressing and enabling the front to be "locked" more, regardless of if there is torque going to it from the engine. 

Just my 2 cents, maybe someone with more mechanical know-how can provide input. 

Edited by Orvis25

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have you ever tried the spline sockets ? sometimes they fit tighter  ,sometime they don't  ---- yes it is harder to steer with extra shims , it is because you limiting the limited slip with extra cone washers  , so cornering is harder 

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28 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

have you ever tried the spline sockets ? sometimes they fit tighter  ,sometime they don't  ---- yes it is harder to steer with extra shims , it is because you limiting the limited slip with extra cone washers  , so cornering is harder 

OOC, does having them slip less mean that technically the pads wear out less, or is that negated by the fact when they do slip, they are slipping under even more friction pressure? 

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2002-2004 models ( for the trx450fm ) use an electronic switch, this switch on the throttle energizes the magnets at the front of the pinion shaft, when this happens, now the front clutch system in the front diff are engaged. every honda from 1988 to now, some how or another still has clutch disk in the front diff. they may not be designed the same ?, but they still work the same way. unless you shim like you did ?, or get the full locker ?, only other way you will make the steering easier is to use a 424 on the front drive shaft. reason: the front end is trying to spin the same speed as the rear end. when you have a system that has the 424 installed ?, you are disconnecting the front output shaft to the front differential, when this takes place, you no longer are matching the front and rear output speed. 

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Welp, I got the Diff installed again and drove her for the first time with the washer mod,
my god, it steers like a tank now. 

I can feel a lot more torque going to the front wheels, but man it makes it hard to turn. 
Hopefully she wears in a little more and eases up. 

at least i know the mod worked 😛 

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did you do the full lock ? or partial (more aggressive ) clutch pack, i gather from your original post a partial ? 

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7 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

did you do the full lock ? or partial (more aggressive ) clutch pack, i gather from your original post a partial ? 

i went with the 2 cone washer method. its supposed to be partial, but feels more like 100% compared to stock. 

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