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Orvis25

Magnets and Diffs

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So question, 
Have you all ever seen mods for putting magnets on the filler caps on ATV differentials? 
I know magnetic engine oil drain bolts are common (i got one myself), but what about the diff?
 

The diff drain bolts on my trx300fw are to small to have magnets on it (not even aftermarket available), but I was thinking of epoxying a magnet to the underside of my filler cap, so when the oil is "splashing" around while driving, maybe it will help catch some of the magnetic particles from the steel teeth gears wearing down. 

It would also allow me to clean the magnet on oil changes (assuming it catches anything) unlike epoxying one internally that i cant get to unless I remove the diff and crack it open (kind of like car rear end diffs)
 

Thoughts?

Edited by Orvis25
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I think I'd be more worried about the magnet dislodging and falling down into the gears than I would from metal bits in the lube.

 

 

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6 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

I think I'd be more worried about the magnet dislodging and falling down into the gears than I would from metal bits in the lube.

 

 

Ya that's about the only concern i have, but i don't think after degreasing it and using some quality 2 part epoxy it'd be an issue. 

I just notice every time i open it it has some fine shavings (which is normal wear from my understanding)

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I wonder if you could glue it to the outside of it. Maybe test it on the inside of the cap 1st before doing so to see if little things stick to it.

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Just now, ATC4ever said:

I wonder if you could glue it to the outside of it. Maybe test it on the inside of the cap 1st before doing so to see if little things stick to it.

I was thinking that too possibly, but you'd loose alot of the power since ited travel through the socket head part of the cap.  (like 1/2" thick). If it can get through, I was thinking one in, one out (the outside one can be a "just in case" the inside one comes loose somehow. 

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3 hours ago, Orvis25 said:

I was thinking that too possibly, but you'd loose alot of the power since ited travel through the socket head part of the cap.  (like 1/2" thick). If it can get through, I was thinking one in, one out (the outside one can be a "just in case" the inside one comes loose somehow. 

Decided just to go for it. I can fit 2 magnets in the front diff fill cap. 

 

I had to use some two part hardman d-50 urethane adhesive (epoxy) since the JB weld gave me a bunch of issues (since it contains steel fragments).

It was "sucking" all the epoxy to the magnet sides and top, which put it past the lip of the cap, something I did not want. . 

 

The only thing i can really think of going wrong is the gear oil eats away the epoxy for some reason (the additives?), but I'm hoping that wont be the case. 

 

If you guys hear a horror story later down the line about my diffs going out you'll know why 😛

 

Going to leave one magnet pair on the outside until my next change, hopefully it stays as added insurance. 

 

FOR SCIENCE! 

 

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Edited by Orvis25
Fixed spelling, more detail
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lol. i can't wait to hear this story later down the road ?!..lol.

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I'm all for magnets i did all three 300 gear boxes ( front pumpkin transfer case, and the rear pumpkin ) and a dimple plug for my engine, and even drilled the plug, and made one for my Kohlar power wood splitter, the mowers, both have those cheep plastic twist oil drains, so i placed magnets on the sides of the block ,and also one on the tuff torq k46 hydro unit, along with two for the zero turn hydro units, but, the honda powered mantis tiller drains from the check plug, ( so,i placed one of the side of the block ) you just turn it on it's side to drain / change it. i used hondabond on the 4 i made, the dimple i ordered from https://drainplugmagnets.com/ friend of mine got one for his jeep, (my xj has 5) so he turned me onto dimple magnetic plugs, but I've always seen magnet plugs on certain types of machine gear boxes, and they do work! 1st pic is the dimple, (you can see the proof, and that's not from an over due oil change! or any engine abuse! ) 2nd pic the check plug holding up a 14 inch pipe wrench, 3rd pic is just before i added the o-ring, and installing it. 

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Welp, she works! 

 

Drive her a few blocks, came back, jacked her up to inspect for leaks out of the gaskets/seals and to check if the megnet disloged. 

 

The diff gear does not hit the magnet when its fully tightened (I was worried about this). 

 

So as long as the gear oil does not eat away the epoxy for whatever reason, I'd say success. 

 

Even already pulled out a few pieces of metal already from my fresh oil change just now (remnants in the case I guess) 

20210714_152157.jpg

Edited by Orvis25
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32 minutes ago, shadetree said:

lol. i can't wait to hear this story later down the road ?!..lol.

I know you do... >.< 

 

But dont jinx me !

 

Send good vibes. 

Edited by Orvis25

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9 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

I'm all for magnets i did all three 300 gear boxes ( front pumpkin transfer case, and the rear pumpkin ) and a dimple plug for my engine, and even drilled the plug, and made one for my Kohlar power wood splitter, the mowers, both have those cheep plastic twist oil drains, so i placed magnets on the sides of the block ,and also one on the tuff torq k46 hydro unit, along with two for the zero turn hydro units, but, the honda powered mantis tiller drains from the check plug, ( so,i placed one of the side of the block ) you just turn it on it's side to drain / change it. i used hondabond on the 4 i made, the dimple i ordered from https://drainplugmagnets.com/ friend of mine got one for his jeep, (my xj has 5) so he turned me onto dimple magnetic plugs, but I've always seen magnet plugs on certain types of machine gear boxes, and they do work! 1st pic is the dimple, (you can see the proof, and that's not from an over due oil change! or any engine abuse! ) 2nd pic the check plug holding up a 14 inch pipe wrench, 3rd pic is just before i added the o-ring, and installing it. 

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I like it. 

 

Did you epoxy the magnet to the underside of the filler cap on the front/rear diff? 

 

I ordered a USA  made Tusk drain bolt for my engine oil l, I'm "home brewing" the differential filler caps with magnets amd some epoxy. 

Edited by Orvis25

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yep i see yours worked!  i see some metal bits on it already, hondabond ht is what i used, it's held up very well so far, i tested the attraction to the gears before i ever installed those plugs, and there's not enough pull to break the bond, that why i went with a magnet that's flush with the plug, i didn't want one protruding out (close to gear set ) but rather collects bits from the oil sling method. 

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3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

yep i see yours worked!  i see some metal bits on it already, hondabond ht is what i used, it's held up very well so far, i tested the attraction to the gears before i ever installed those plugs, and there's not enough pull to break the bond, that why i went with a magnet that's flush with the plug, i didn't want one protruding out (close to gear set ) but rather collects bits from the oil sling method. 

Ya I wanted mine as flush as possible, but the double stack magnet method I used (what I had) protruded like 1mm. Past the lip. 

 

As long as its flush, seems to be totally safe, granted the gear oil does not eat the epoxy (idk if this will be the case or not). 

 

I'm happy 🙂

Edited by Orvis25

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22 minutes ago, Orvis25 said:

I know you do... >.< 

 

But dont jinx me !

 

Send good vibes. 

be warned, if that magnet drops inside ?, you can kiss that differential goodbye !..lol. i hope it works for you though !.

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21 minutes ago, Orvis25 said:

Ya I wanted mine as flush as possible, but the double stack magnet method I used (what I had) protruded like 1mm. Past the lip. 

 

As long as its flush, seems to be totally safe, granted the gear oil does not eat the epoxy (idk if this will be the case or not). 

 

I'm happy 🙂

 

you should be fine, hey it collected some stuff already, so it does work, the one thing i would have done, is fill the inside of the cap all the way level with the epoxy, when i added the hondabond to mine i added enough so when i pushed the magnet down the HB was pushing out from between the magnet, and inside edge of the plug, all the way around, so that mess i cleaned off, so it's covered all over except the side facing down, i forgot this part, i also set two in gear oil, and the other in engine oil (which is whats used in the transfer case) for 3 months, and did another 48 hour pull test, and they all held in place. 

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7 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

you should be fine, hey it collected some stuff already, so it does work, the one thing i would have done, is fill the inside of the cap all the way level with the epoxy, when i added the hondabond to mine i added enough so when i pushed the magnet down the HB was pushing out from between the magnet, and inside edge of the plug, all the way around, so that mess i cleaned off, so it's covered all over except the side facing down, i forgot this part, i also set two in gear oil, and the other in engine oil (which is whats used in the transfer case) for 3 months, and did another 48 hour pull test, and they all held in place. 

I was considering that, but I dont have enough non-steel epoxy on hand to completely fill the cap. 

 

I'm sure honda bond (or in my case rtv green) would work, but I trust epoxy a bit for in terms of resilience and holding the magnet in there firmly (since honda and rtv do not dry hard, theybstay somewhat rubbery) 

 

I guess only time will tell though. 

 

However, I could (and might do this) do the epoxy on the bottom part to hold the magnets in place & togeather, and then back fill the rest of the void with RTV green, I like that idea. 

Edited by Orvis25
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good deal, I'm glad some started a thread like this, because from your pic, and mine, they do work! which means less metal floating around to shorten the life of the engine transmission, and gear boxes, and I'm  ALL for that! 

 

The other reason i used HB is just what you said it remains rubbery and resist changing during temp extremes winter verses summer, so i never thought of trying epoxy, but I'm sure some types would work just fine, i even stuck mine in the freezer, and pull tested them again,  thought i also forgot to mention, lol, so I'd say there bullet proof. 

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3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

good deal, I'm glad some started a thread like this, because from your pic, and mine, they do work! which means less metal floating around to shorten the life of the engine transmission, and gear boxes, and I'm  ALL for that! 

 

The other reason i used HB is just what you said it remains rubbery and resist changing during temp extremes winter verses summer, so i never thought of trying epoxy, but I'm sure some types would work just fine, i even stuck mine in the freezer, and pull tested them again,  thought i also forgot to mention, lol, so I'd say there bullet proof. 

YA i might make a "how to" video/thread for making these. Add another thing to my plethora of "how to" stuff I post here 😛 

cuz i was googling and saw like... almost nothing in terms of differential stuff, jsut engine oil magnetic plugs. 

I figured id be either the post, or just the most vocal about it. 

But yes i back fill in the rest with RTV green just to be on the safe side.


Anyway,
You can post yours there too when I make it >.< 

Edited by Orvis25
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11 minutes ago, Orvis25 said:

cuz i was googling and saw like... almost nothing in terms of differential stuff, jsut engine oil magnetic plugs. 

 

yup, i looked and looked, even called dimple again, and NOPE they don't make that type (magnetic 300 check plug) so, like you i made my own.

 

23 minutes ago, Orvis25 said:

You can post yours there too when I make it >.< 

 

thank you, I'd be happy to, oh i wanted to say thank you for that lift kit thread, that's the kit i have (well close but mine is suppose to be made in the USA) i didn't want much lift, and that's the only kit i could find with just a tad bit of lift. 

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3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

yup, i looked and looked, even called dimple again, and NOPE they don't make that type (magnetic 300 check plug) so, like you i made my own.

 

 

thank you, I'd be happy to, oh i wanted to say thank you for that lift kit thread, that's the kit i have (well close but mine is suppose to be made in the USA) i didn't want much lift, and that's the only kit i could find with just a tad bit of lift. 

Hey no worries, glad it helped. 

 

Did you install it yet?
Make sure to do the washer on the rear and buy a longer bolt. IDK why they thought that was good enough but it wasn't. 
Id also recommend buying a tubular spacer/shim thing for the rear bolt so it does not cave in (my kit came with only the front ones). Just an extra precaution that I will go back and do at some later point. 

Edited by Orvis25

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sadly no i haven't..... lol. i got busy doing other things, so it's in my shop shelved at the moment, i just had too many thing going on, and that was the only bike i had then, now i have the 97 300, and my old 86  trx 350 tank, but my deal is once i start something .... that's all i think about till i complete the job..... lol. 

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2 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

sadly no i haven't..... lol. i got busy doing other things, so it's in my shop shelved at the moment, i just had too many thing going on, and that was the only bike i had then, now i have the 97 300, and my old 86  trx 350 tank, but my deal is once i start something .... that's all i think about till i complete the job..... lol. 

go get er' done brother 🙂 

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yeah yeah i know brother, lol, my life has changed somewhat, i want go into details, but, ill get this train back on the tracks soon ;) 

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18 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

yeah yeah i know brother, lol, my life has changed somewhat, i want go into details, but, ill get this train back on the tracks soon 😉

well i hope it works out for ya brother. 

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I made a tutorial on how to make these here:



@_Wilson_™
if you want to share your photos' there go for it. 

Edited by Orvis25
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