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Ok folks, another question. I stripped my four wheeler down all the way. It was steering fine before so. Now that I have all the front together it is super hard to turn. I replaced all the bearing and ball joints. The only thing I didn’t replace was the tie rod ends. They seemed ok. So what can make it so tough to turn now? 

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did you install a new steering stem bushing ? and grease it well ? from your other posted pics... i see a defrence in the clamp caps, same bike, but one pic looks like the cap has some damage, while the other does not. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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No I never took it off. It was very smooth and no noise from any part of it so I left it alone. It was turning very well up until I reassemble the front end. 

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6 hours ago, DLBeltran74 said:

I stripped my four wheeler down all the way. It was steering fine before so. Now that I have all the front together it is super hard to turn. I replaced all the bearing and ball joints. The only thing I didn’t replace was the tie rod ends. They seemed ok. So what can make it so tough to turn now? 

Being I don't know what you really done ----  I  think I would jack it off the ground in the front , disconnect the tie rod ends  and isolate  if the problem is in the steering shaft upper bushing / lower bearing , versus , the ball joints  ,  tie rod ends or cv-shafts ---which makes me think , the  two cv axles are not the same length , did you put the right one back on the right side 

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3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Being I don't know what you really done ----  I  think I would jack it off the ground in the front , disconnect the tie rod ends  and isolate  if the problem is in the steering shaft upper bushing / lower bearing , versus , the ball joints  ,  tie rod ends or cv-shafts ---which makes me think , the  two cv axles are not the same length , did you put the right one back on the right side 

I was going to remove the cv axles but the boots were in good shape. So I left them in and just put the front diff back in. I replaced the bearings and ball joints on the knuckles and then reassembled. I double checked with the manual and then replaced the tie rods. I never removed the tie rods from the steering arm. 

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Everything else the same?  Same tires?

 

You have that steering stem bushing up top, the steering stem bearing a little further down, tie rod ends, and ball joints that can all make it harder to steer.

 

I take a grease needle and slide it up under the boots on ball joints and tie rod ends and fill with grease before I install them. 

 

I agree that you can take the tie rods loose at the knuckle on both sides, and then turn the handlebars, should be super easy.  If it is, then turn the knuckle on each side by hand, tie rod still unhooked.  That should give you an idea of where the trouble is, and all you have to do is take those 2 nuts off the tie rod ends and pop them out of the knuckles to do the checking.

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even of you didnt take that steering stem bushing cap off... I'll ask this is it dented ? or the light shinning on it messing with my veiw ? if so, wouldn't be hard to knock that dent out some, while you have access to it (no plastic in the way) it was steering just fine before you even started taking it apart ? I'm with the guys take the inner tie rod ends off the steering stem yoke ... when you have it raised check each side (left and right) knuckle for binding up, along with the steering shaft rotation.

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I would start at the ball joints. Like said above, disconnect the outer tie rod ends and figure it out.

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On 8/31/2021 at 2:46 AM, Fishfiles said:

Being I don't know what you really done ----  I  think I would jack it off the ground in the front , disconnect the tie rod ends  and isolate  if the problem is in the steering shaft upper bushing / lower bearing , versus , the ball joints  ,  tie rod ends or cv-shafts ---which makes me think , the  two cv axles are not the same length , did you put the right one back on the right side 

Ok, I disconnected the tie rods and the steering was back to turning easy. Connected them back and the steering was stiff again. So it has to be the new ball joints. But this time I tightened everything to spec. And easier to turn but still a little stiff. But I can deal with it for now. 

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You grease the ball joints really well?  I get a needle, slide it up under the boot, fill it up with grease, then rotate the stud around to work the grease up in there really well.

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On 9/6/2021 at 4:30 PM, DLBeltran74 said:

Ok, I disconnected the tie rods and the steering was back to turning easy. Connected them back and the steering was stiff again. So it has to be the new ball joints. But this time I tightened everything to spec. And easier to turn but still a little stiff. But I can deal with it for now. 

 

On 9/6/2021 at 4:30 PM, DLBeltran74 said:

Ok, I disconnected the tie rods and the steering was back to turning easy. Connected them back and the steering was stiff again. So it has to be the new ball joints. But this time I tightened everything to spec. And easier to turn but still a little stiff. But I can deal with it for now. 

I would guess you damaged  some or all of the ball joints during installation -----  How did you go about driving the ball joints  in ? And did you buy cheap Chinese parts off e-bay or amazon 

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I've screwed up a lot of ball joints trying to get them installed.

 

Finally found a pipe nipple at the local hardware store that is the perfect size to get them in without damaging them.

 

 

I do put the ball joints in the freezer for 24 hours, and run a dremel grinding stone around the inside of the hole in the arm or knuckle to smooth it up before I press the new ball joint in place.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

I would guess you damaged  some or all of the ball joints during installation -----  How did you go about driving the ball joints  in ? And did you buy cheap Chinese parts off e-bay or amazon 

I purchased Niche ball joints. I have no clue where they are from. And yes I got them off of eBay. I pressed them in just like YouTube said. Lol! I’m not a mechanic nor do I have the funds to purchase oem products. I did not buy the super cheap ones these were less than $50. And the wife didn’t gripe so I think I did ok. They were super easy getting in and I didn’t touch or damage the rubber boots. So I just figured they will be tight until broken in a little. Who knows. It doesn’t matter too much. I only paid $150 for the quad so I’m not gonna drop a whole lot of cash into it. Even if I did have. I was just a little concerned because with the old ball joints it was super easy to turn and now with the new ones, it’s a little tight. 

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11 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

You grease the ball joints really well?  I get a needle, slide it up under the boot, fill it up with grease, then rotate the stud around to work the grease up in there really well.

No, I didn’t grease them at all. But I’ll take you up on that advice and give it a try. It isn’t too difficult to get to the boot, so I’ll give it a shot this weekend. Thank you for that. 

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7 hours ago, DLBeltran74 said:

I purchased Niche ball joints. I have no clue where they are from. And yes I got them off of eBay. I pressed them in just like YouTube said. Lol! I’m not a mechanic nor do I have the funds to purchase oem products. I did not buy the super cheap ones these were less than $50. And the wife didn’t gripe so I think I did ok. They were super easy getting in and I didn’t touch or damage the rubber boots. So I just figured they will be tight until broken in a little. Who knows. It doesn’t matter too much. I only paid $150 for the quad so I’m not gonna drop a whole lot of cash into it. Even if I did have. I was just a little concerned because with the old ball joints it was super easy to turn and now with the new ones, it’s a little tight. 

 

 

When it comes to OEM parts over china   ,  like ball joints ,  you will be paying multiple times any ways using the cheap ones  and then  having to do the labor twice or more , cause that chinese stuff don't last one season 

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