1992 350D Starting problems

[shadetree 5,880]

that rust will come off for the most part. as long as its not inside where the magnets are ?, your ok. also keep the rust away from your timing marks and pick up coil tab.

[jeepwm69 7,600]

Take some 0000 steel wool and rub it off.  It'll be fine.  Make sure you don't leave any steel wool bits on the flywheel though!

[TrxPipUK 169]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna clean all the gunk and dirt out best I can tomorrow, then I'll be ready to split the cases. 

[Goober 1,555]

Can you use steel wool?
@DuckOfDeathgifted me a stator. It was very carbon-covered. I bathed it in oil and brushed all the carbon gunk off with plumbers flux brushes. I cleaned contacts with a non-metallic scrub pad so I wouldn’t get iron on the magnets. 
I replaced the connectors and now works in my project!

 

 

oh yeah steel wool on the flywheel and cases—yes.  I use the softer copper or brass brushes for some parts

Edited March 24, 2020 by Goober

[TrxPipUK 169]

Thanks @Goober. Nice to hear from you. So would you suggest removing all the rust? Or could I just leave it? Thanks 

[retro 4,048]

Rub off whatever rust that you can get to Pip. Just gotta be sure that all metal particles are cleaned off from the magnets after you are done.

[TrxPipUK 169]

11 hours ago, retro said:

Rub off whatever rust that you can get to Pip. Just gotta be sure that all metal particles are cleaned off from the magnets after you are done.

Okay great, thanks. 

 

I was cleaning out the covers a bit and had a look at the coils. There seems to be a bit of damage to them, should I be concerned about this? Also what's the best way to clean all this muck and oil out properly? 

Thanks 

Edited March 26, 2020 by TrxPipUK

[jeepwm69 7,600]

Can of starter fluid is good for hosing out the inside of the cases when you're cleaning them.

 

As far as that stator is concerned, I'll leave the question to the electrical guys.  I would think that so long as the windings on the ends look ok you could run it, but I could be wrong.

[Goober 1,555]

You saw the pic i posted

I cleaned the stator Duck gave me by soaking it in a little container of engine oil and a little boars hair plumbers flux brush. It was covered in carbon and burnt flakes of dirt.

heres the case I married it to—looked like the quad was rescued from a bog. I just wiped it out with swabs, rags and a flux brush.  I bought it because it was cheaper than buying the caps separately—and then I cleaned it up and used it.
 

just be careful about using any harsh polishes on the outside of that side case unless the paint is already ruined. An protect that shift lever seal

 

oh yeah those stators can take a little abuse — I don’t know about that chipping. You’ll just have to try it—they’re easy enough to remove and replace—if you can find one.

 

Edited March 26, 2020 by Goober

[TrxPipUK 169]

5 hours ago, Goober said:

You saw the pic i posted

I cleaned the stator Duck gave me by soaking it in a little container of engine oil and a little boars hair plumbers flux brush. It was covered in carbon and burnt flakes of dirt.

heres the case I married it to—looked like the quad was rescued from a bog. I just wiped it out with swabs, rags and a flux brush.  I bought it because it was cheaper than buying the caps separately—and then I cleaned it up and used it.
 

just be careful about using any harsh polishes on the outside of that side case unless the paint is already ruined. An protect that shift lever seal

 

oh yeah those stators can take a little abuse — I don’t know about that chipping. You’ll just have to try it—they’re easy enough to remove and replace—if you can find one.

 

Thanks 🙂I'll get the coil out and clean it up. Don't think there's any carbon build up on it though, just old oil and dirt deposits.

 

After that how do I go about splitting the cases? 

[retro 4,048]

You don't have to remove the dowel pins in the last step unless they are loose enough to fall out and get lost. You may have to tap around the cases to loosen their bond with the gasket using a plastic hammer. Tapping on the end of the crankshaft (and transmission shafts) with a small block of wood or a rubber hammer may be necessary while lifting the right side case off too. Do not pry on the cases (except lightly and carefully where the motor mount bolts go through them), else you may gouge up the cases and cause them to leak oil. Take your time...

 

 

[shadetree 5,880]

be sure to check, double check, triple check to MAKE SURE ALL BOLTS ARE OUT FROM BOTH SIDES OF THE CENTER CASES !!!!. DONT FORGET TO LAY THE CENTER CASES DOWN, WITH OUTPUT SHAFT ON BOTTOM !!.

[retro 4,048]

Also Pip, don't forget to flush out the oil cooler and hoses. Then refill the oil cooler about 3/4 full with fresh motor oil if possible. Be extra careful and respectful concerning the virus.... its pretty wicked and dangerous. Stay safe....

[TrxPipUK 169]

Awesome, thanks dudes. I've looked at the manual but I'm unsure whether I need to remove anything else before splitting the cases? For example the kickstart? 

[shadetree 5,880]

21 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

Awesome, thanks dudes. I've looked at the manual but I'm unsure whether I need to remove anything else before splitting the cases? For example the kickstart? 

the kick start lever itself, yes, remove it from the shaft. your doing a complete tear down...right ?, so, everything must come off. take lots of pics, before, during, after, double, triple check your work as you go along, this way you will have a up front idea if you screwed up when going back together.

[TrxPipUK 169]

Here's some pics of each side. Do you think it's ready to be pulled apart?

[shadetree 5,880]

16 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

Here's some pics of each side. Do you think it's ready to be pulled apart?

you will need to pull shifting shaft out, before you try to lay it on the flywheel side. over on clutch side, main clutch gear needs to come off, as well as the shift drum cup before you can split the cases. and i see a lot of bolts still in the engine cases ?, remove them, then tap the right side off the crank, make sure you lay it down on the flywheel side !. no need to unbolt the output shaft.

[TrxPipUK 169]

So I've removed everything shade said to. I have been tapping around the case to try and free it but it doesn't seem to want to budge... Any ideas? 

[shadetree 5,880]

7 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

So I've removed everything shade said to. I have been tapping around the case to try and free it but it doesn't seem to want to budge... Any ideas? 

did you remove all the bolts, FROM BOTH SIDES ????.

[shadetree 5,880]

and don't lose the pins in the end of the shift drum !!!.

[TrxPipUK 169]

Yes all bolts are removed. I've triple checked that lol. 

Which pins in the end of the shift drum? 

[shadetree 5,880]

4 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

Yes all bolts are removed. I've triple checked that lol. 

Which pins in the end of the shift drum? 

see those raised pins sticking up out of the end of the shift drum from where you removed the cup ?, those !. again, check to make sure you removed all the case halve bolts ?, if your certain they are all out ?, take a block of wood, rest it in the rod area on the side thats on top ( you have the motor laying on its side with the output shaft on the bottom ), use the block of wood against the round area where the rod is sticking through, then smack the crap outta the other end of the wood, sooner or later you will see the case start to come apart. try to hit a solid area around the case halve to keep it coming up evenly !.

[shadetree 5,880]

you may need to use a flat screw driver to stick in area's to CAREFULLY MIND YOU !!, pry the cases apart, try not to apply much pressure !!!, so you wont dig into the sealing area where your doing this prying !!!.

[TrxPipUK 169]

Its apart!!! 😁 Pretty mucky in there but I'll get er cleaned

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I bet your glad you opened it up , that nasty stuff would have made grinding compound out your oil