1992 350D Starting problems

[Goober 1,555]

I didn’t think you could source that seal anywhere. 

Pip that Shindy kit has several seals in it but the QA03A only requires 4:

not counting bowl and top carb body gasket

1. Pilot needle screw needs the tiny seal
2. Pilot needle screw get a base seal

3. float bowl drain screw base seal

4. Carb linkage body drain

 

that SE valve requires a conically shaped seal that to my knowledge is not available separately. it is likely you used too big or too small a seal on the valve.
 

Here are some pics.

Edited December 24, 2020 by Goober

[TrxPipUK 169]

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

the choke parts do not come in REAL shindy rebuild kits !.

I mean it looked pretty legit 🤷🏻‍♂️

[TrxPipUK 169]

29 minutes ago, Goober said:

Pip that Shindy kit has several seals in it but the QA03A only requires 4:

I don't quite understand. What's QA03A? Are you saying there are only 4 seals that I needed to replace?

[TrxPipUK 169]

30 minutes ago, Goober said:

that SE valve requires a conically shaped seal that to my knowledge is not available separately. it is likely you used too big or too small a seal on the valve.

I'll check in a few days when I'm home and report back to you.

[shadetree 5,877]

16 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

I don't quite understand. What's QA03A? Are you saying there are only 4 seals that I needed to replace?

what he's saying is, carb rebuild kits DO NOT COME WITH ANY SEALS FOR THE CHOKE VALVE. only time you will get that seal that goes around the valve is when you buy just the valve kit ?..and they are not cheap !..lol.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

29 minutes ago, shadetree said:

what he's saying is, carb rebuild kits DO NOT COME WITH ANY SEALS FOR THE CHOKE VALVE. only time you will get that seal that goes around the valve is when you buy just the valve kit ?..and they are not cheap !..lol.

 

You think TRXPipUK might have got snookered with a Chinese  imitation labeled Shindy kit !!! ----  Heavens forbid ----- or  " Maybe " he is snookering us and really a Chinese part using guy in hiding , they call that " Stolen Valor  "  LOL 

[shadetree 5,877]

12 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 

You think TRXPipUK might have got snookered with a Chinese  imitation labeled Shindy kit !!! ----  Heavens forbid ----- or  " Maybe " he is snookering us and really a Chinese part using guy in hiding , they call that " Stolen Valor  "  LOL 

hard to say ?..unless he used one of the o-rings in the kit thinking it went on the choke valve ?..hard to say if he bought a china knock-off shindy kit or not ?. i know for 100% fact..NO SHINDY REBUILD KITS COME WITH THE CHOKE PARTS !.

[TrxPipUK 169]

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

hard to say ?..unless he used one of the o-rings in the kit thinking it went on the choke valve ?..hard to say if he bought a china knock-off shindy kit or not ?. i know for 100% fact..NO SHINDY REBUILD KITS COME WITH THE CHOKE PARTS !.

I'll have to have a proper look when I get in the workshop. Hope it's not a Chinese knockoff lol

[Goober 1,555]

No you might’ve used the Fatter carb drain seal on the SE valve. I did it the first time I rebuilt a Keihin QA03A. The first time you do one You think the SE valve is part of the carb but it’s not. And carb kits come with extra stuff you don’t need, like a pilot screw seal because no one ever loses one🤑. But they don’t come with stuff you need like a carb passage plug 

Edited December 24, 2020 by Goober

[retro 4,048]

On 12/23/2020 at 6:24 PM, TrxPipUK said:

So when checking the cable slack I want the plunger out of the carb?

 

Check the cable slack with the plunger installed. You are verifying that the plunger returns all the way down when the choke lever is turned off.

 

As you've heard from the guys Shindy does not include a new choke plunger lipped seal in their kits. But some of the china knockoff kits do include that seal... so if your plunger seal is the correct one go ahead and use it. I buy china kits just to get that new plunger sealing ring sometimes... the rubber parts in those china kits are perfectly OK to use, but ya gotta throw all of the metal parts in those china kits away (the jets aren't the right size in china kits, motor runs like crap if ya try to use them) and either reuse the original Honda jets, or replace them from a Genuine Shindy kit.

 

So... if you still have all of the original jets AND they are still in good condition, then I recommend that ya put all of them back in the carb. If any of those original metal parts are junk then ya gotta buy a Genuine Shindy kit somewhere else besides ebay or Amazon. Those sites are both china fraud pits as you have learned....

 

Let us know what you find before spending any more money on it, odds are your stock jets can be returned to service and your choke plunger is a good one with that new china seal on it.... Happy holidays Pip!

[TrxPipUK 169]

8 hours ago, retro said:

 

Check the cable slack with the plunger installed. You are verifying that the plunger returns all the way down when the choke lever is turned off.

 

As you've heard from the guys Shindy does not include a new choke plunger lipped seal in their kits. But some of the china knockoff kits do include that seal... so if your plunger seal is the correct one go ahead and use it. I buy china kits just to get that new plunger sealing ring sometimes... the rubber parts in those china kits are perfectly OK to use, but ya gotta throw all of the metal parts in those china kits away (the jets aren't the right size in china kits, motor runs like crap if ya try to use them) and either reuse the original Honda jets, or replace them from a Genuine Shindy kit.

 

So... if you still have all of the original jets AND they are still in good condition, then I recommend that ya put all of them back in the carb. If any of those original metal parts are junk then ya gotta buy a Genuine Shindy kit somewhere else besides ebay or Amazon. Those sites are both china fraud pits as you have learned....

 

Let us know what you find before spending any more money on it, odds are your stock jets can be returned to service and your choke plunger is a good one with that new china seal on it.... Happy holidays Pip!

Thanks retro!

 

I'll get the carb off in a couple days after the festivities lol..

Will get back to you with what i find! Sounds like it might be a Chinese knockoff then, it's annoying that as it wasn't cheap and I had to order from the states. 

I'll look into it. Thanks!

[TrxPipUK 169]

Just putting the old parts back in the carb. Everything looks in good order and clean. Just checking that this is in the correct slot? Just going by the manual so I guess it's right but could be wrong as we have found lol

[retro 4,048]

Yup thats right Pip.

[Goober 1,555]

[TrxPipUK 169]

Great. Is there anything I else I need to make sure is set right? 

Thanks 

[_Wilson_™ 6,563]

you might check the throttle adjustment at the handlebars , when turning from full left, to full right ... the rpm should not change, in one of your picks looks like the boot on the thumb throttle housing was pulled back, so not sure if you adjusted it, or not. 

[Goober 1,555]

^^^ throttle cable rigging very important 

Also See my pipe cleaner running thru the enrichment circuit? Helps to clean that channel 

Edited December 31, 2020 by Goober

[TrxPipUK 169]

8 hours ago, Goober said:

^^^ throttle cable rigging very important 

Also See my pipe cleaner running thru the enrichment circuit? Helps to clean that channel 

Pipe cleaner running through the enrichment circuit? Where/what's that?

[TrxPipUK 169]

Hi all. 

I put all the oem carb parts back into the carb and also cleaned up the intake boot and replaced the o ring to ensure its sealing good.

Now I'm having trouble starting the quad? The carb is getting fuel, I have spark. So wondering if maybe it's flooding? How could I test if the float valve is sealing properly once the carb bowl is full? 

Any other ideas are welcome lol

 

Pics of intake boot.

 

[retro 4,048]

43 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

How could I test if the float valve is sealing properly once the carb bowl is full? 

 

If the float valve were not sealing fuel would be pumped out of the bowl vent hose onto the ground.

Have you taken the spark plug out to see if its wet or dry yet?

If the plug is wet with fuel then it got flooded. You can purge excess fuel from the cylinder by cranking the motor over while the spark plug is out but be careful the exiting fuel vapors don't catch fire by the ignition spark. Flush the gas off the wet spark plug with some rubbing alcohol and allow it to dry, then put the plug back in and try starting it again.

But if the spark plug appears dry then the cylinder was not getting enough fuel. In that case try to prime it by pouring a small amount of fuel into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, put the plug back in and try to start it.

Let us know what you find out.

 

I see in your photo above that ya put a cloth in the intake to keep it clean while you replaced the o-ring on the boot. By chance ya didn't forget to take that cloth out of the intake port when ya put it back together did ya?

[TrxPipUK 169]

5 minutes ago, retro said:

Have you taken the spark plug out to see if its wet or dry yet?

Yep took the spark plug out and it was wet. I did see fuel coming out the bowl vent at one point but forgot to see if it stopped later on or not. 

 

I saw someone on YouTube testing the float valve by taking the carb off, having it upside down with the bowl off, and blowing into the fuel inlet. He said, If the valve if sealing correctly then you shouldn't be able to blow through it easily. But if it is easy to blow through then it isn't sealing properly. 

Would this actually work? 

 

9 minutes ago, retro said:

I see in your photo above that ya put a cloth in the intake to keep it clean while you replaced the o-ring on the boot. By chance ya didn't forget to take that cloth out of the intake port when ya put it back together did ya?

Hahah no I did remember to take it out lol.. 

Thanks 

[retro 4,048]

It sounds like your float valve is not sealing huh.

 

Sometimes you can restore them by using a stiff plastic brush to remove the hard shiny layer that prevents them from sealing from the rubber tip. Try brushing the rubber tip lengthwise... start from the widest diameter of the rubber tip and brush using heavy pressure toward the pointy end of the tip, while rotating the float valve with your fingers between strokes. A stiff brush is required... you'll need to brush for several rotations.... brush until the rubber tip appears like it has a slightly rough surface, all the hard, shiny appearance completely gone. When you get done the surface of the rubber will be soft and ever so slightly fuzzy looking. It will seal well once its restored.

 

You may have to spin a cotton Q-tip to polish & shine up the bottom of the brass float valve seat too. Rubbing compound on a cotton Q-tip works well or you can substitute toothpaste for rubbing compound and accomplish the same thing. Chuck a wetted Q-tip into a drill motor if ya got one and change your Q-tips often until the hole in the bottom of the valve seat appears smooth and shiny.

Clean up & reassemble.

[retro 4,048]

You are using the stock float valve right? If you still have the china float valve in the carb then I'd pull it out and use the original.

[shadetree 5,877]

fuel pump oem ?, fuel pump getting enough fuel ?, fuel cut-off relay working ?. air filter new ?. these carbs MUST have a restriction in order to get the correct amount of fuel to the intake. try removing the fuel line from carb/pump, attach a short line in its place, fill the carb up until line is full, crank it over, if it fires and runs this way ?, this is a fuel delivery issue, if it does not ?, then its an engine problem, maybe spark ?. I do know this...if the fan control unit is bad ?, it will not spark correctly !.

[TrxPipUK 169]

28 minutes ago, retro said:

It sounds like your float valve is not sealing huh.

 

Sometimes you can restore them by using a stiff plastic brush to remove the hard shiny layer that prevents them from sealing from the rubber tip. Try brushing the rubber tip lengthwise... start from the widest diameter of the rubber tip and brush using heavy pressure toward the pointy end of the tip, while rotating the float valve with your fingers between strokes. A stiff brush is required... you'll need to brush for several rotations.... brush until the rubber tip appears like it has a slightly rough surface, all the hard, shiny appearance completely gone. When you get done the surface of the rubber will be soft and ever so slightly fuzzy looking. It will seal well once its restored.

 

You may have to spin a cotton Q-tip to polish & shine up the bottom of the brass float valve seat too. Rubbing compound on a cotton Q-tip works well or you can substitute toothpaste for rubbing compound and accomplish the same thing. Chuck a wetted Q-tip into a drill motor if ya got one and change your Q-tips often until the hole in the bottom of the valve seat appears smooth and shiny.

Clean up & reassemble.

Okay super. Thanks. I'll give that restoration technique a go if I can find an appropriate brush.

I'll have a go at polishing that brass seat as well. I've definitely got some toothpaste lol.

 

28 minutes ago, retro said:

You are using the stock float valve right? If you still have the china float valve in the carb then I'd pull it out and use the original.

Yep I went back to the stock oem one.

 

Thanks retro