Jump to content
TrxPipUK

1992 350D Starting problems

Recommended Posts

Does it have an OEM carb on it now? If so, then polish up the float valve seat a bit so the float shuts the valve properly, follow the service manual step by step to set that carb up right and install it. Put a new NGK spark plug in it, shoot a bit of carb cleaner or ether into the carb while cranking it over and it should fire. Let us know the results of that test so we can help ya with the rest of it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

First: No there isn't an oem fuel pump on it, it has an Edelbrock Universal Micro Electric Fuel Pump on. I know you will jump at this and say get rid of it immediately lol, but I've seen lots of people use these on Facebook and other sites. It's not a Chinese pump which is a bonus aha. I would have loved to get an oem but they are around £150 new (the edelbrock was £50) and I don't have that much to spend unfortunately. 

 

Second: No the quad wasn't running when I bought it. It had no carb, no fuel pump, dodgy electrics and many other issues. The guy said it did run before he left it in the shed and took parts off it. Don't know how true that is though lol.

 

Third: Not sure where I said I don't think it has good compression? (Don't mean to be rude there) I do think it has enough compression. I am going to test it as well. You have to put a fair amount of body weight into kicking it over lol. 

 

Yes I do have the service manual, it was one of the first things I got when I brought the old girl home haha. I have read a fair amount of it but not all yet. 

I have been pretty busy with other things popping up in life since I started this thread, so I haven't managed to get into the workshop to try out all the things everyone has suggested. 

Really appreciate all the help and advice everyone of you have given. Really helps. 

Thanks for going back through the simple stuff shade. I'll go through all the easy stuff when I get a bit of time before I start pulling my hair out lol.

 

Cheers 

never...EVER..rule out the simple stuff !!!. as stated, try some starting fluid in the back of carb, if should '' hit'' ( run for a few sec's ) ?, if it does ?, fuel delivery issue!. ditch the stupid after market fuel pump, buy an oem pump, being cheap here wont get you anywhere in the long run !!!. if it does not hit off the starting fluid ?. then you have a timing or compression issue ?. just because you have a hard time kicking it over ?, dont mean anything !!!!, as I already posted, these models REQUIRE ALOT OF PSI in order to run !, unlike newer atvs ?, these wont run unless your over 200 psi..thats just the nature of this beast !.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
19 minutes ago, retro said:

Does it have an OEM carb on it now? If so, then polish up the float valve seat a bit so the float shuts the valve properly, follow the service manual step by step to set that carb up right and install it. Put a new NGK spark plug in it, shoot a bit of carb cleaner or ether into the carb while cranking it over and it should fire. Let us know the results of that test so we can help ya with the rest of it.

Yeah it has an OEM carb on it and a new NGK spark plug. I'll try and start it with starting fluid tomorrow evening, and if that doesn't work I'll go into the carb and clean the valves and that. Will get back to you after the starting fluid. Thanks man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Quick question. Are you using the electric starter or the kick starter when trying to start it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
32 minutes ago, shadetree said:

never...EVER..rule out the simple stuff !!!. as stated, try some starting fluid in the back of carb, if should '' hit'' ( run for a few sec's ) ?, if it does ?, fuel delivery issue!. ditch the stupid after market fuel pump, buy an oem pump, being cheap here wont get you anywhere in the long run !!!. if it does not hit off the starting fluid ?. then you have a timing or compression issue ?. just because you have a hard time kicking it over ?, dont mean anything !!!!, as I already posted, these models REQUIRE ALOT OF PSI in order to run !, unlike newer atvs ?, these wont run unless your over 200 psi..thats just the nature of this beast !.

I'll try the starting fluid tomorrow evening and get back to you all.

 

Just checked the manual for the psi range for compression. It says 178-206 psi. I'm going to get a tester and test what compression I have anyway.

Screenshot_20191218-224242_WPS Office.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

I'll try the starting fluid tomorrow evening and get back to you all.

 

Just checked the manual for the psi range for compression. It says 178-206 psi. I'm going to get a tester and test what compression I have anyway.

Screenshot_20191218-224242_WPS Office.jpg

yeah, I knew the psi was way up there !..lol.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
9 hours ago, toodeep said:

Quick question. Are you using the electric starter or the kick starter when trying to start it?

I'm using the electric start. However, both methods of starting it (electric and kick) produce a spark and make the fuel pump come on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
5 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

I'm using the electric start. However, both methods of starting it (electric and kick) produce a spark and make the fuel pump come on.

this is normal ^^ :-).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
5 minutes ago, shadetree said:

this is normal ^^ :-).

That's good. I did think it was but just thought I'd put it out there 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 minute ago, TrxPipUK said:

That's good. I did think it was but just thought I'd put it out there 🙂

nah..your golden on this much, now we just need to find out why it wont crank over ?. my money is on timing issue or compression issue .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I only asked because of the possible flooding issue. Sometimes it takes some cranking and playing with the throttle to get a known running machine going again after its flooded. Doing it with the kick starter makes it more difficult.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Update: Just sprayed some starting fluid straight into the carb. Nothing happened 😞. So whist I wait for a compression tester I have taken the carb off and will give it a good going over and refer to the service manual as I go. 

If the compression is too low how do you go about fixing it? And if it's not compression then I'll have to get into checking the timing. Fun times lol

 

Cheers guys 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Nothing at all?  No popping/sputtering? 

 

If compression is off you'll have to pull the top end, and at a minimum hone the cylinder and put new rings on the piston.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

Nothing at all?  No popping/sputtering? 

 

If compression is off you'll have to pull the top end, and at a minimum hone the cylinder and put new rings on the piston.

It did sound like it almost fired at one point but other than that, no nothing at all annoyingly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
20 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

It did sound like it almost fired at one point but other than that, no nothing at all annoyingly.

9/10 times, if it wont fire off starting fluid ?, then there is a problem with the compression !. this can mean anything from worn cylinder/rings ?, or a stuck or bent valve/valves ?, or a stretched cam chain throwing off the timing ?.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 hours ago, TrxPipUK said:

It did sound like it almost fired at one point but other than that, no nothing at all annoyingly.

Bummer!

Looks like you have easy access to the valves. Follow the valve setting procedure I mentioned. Take plug out, Pull those two little valve covers off; pull off the flywheel bolt and generator inspection covers.


Rotate the engine clockwise and watch those valves move. i use a deep well socket, a small extension  and a breaker handle. You can use a ratcheting handle — preference.

 

you’re looking to see if one of your valves fail to move, do both rocker arms move, etc. 

 

First step you’ll see the intake valves open. as you cycle you’ll see them close and flywheel T mark will pass by the inspection hole (TDC compression) keep cycling and the next thing both the exhaust valves will open and you’ll see the T mark again. Keep cycling and they will close and you’ll see the intake valves open again.

 

 

983BD135-8B7F-4A85-B309-A54BDAD356AF.jpeg

Edited by Goober
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
11 hours ago, Goober said:

Bummer!

Looks like you have easy access to the valves. Follow the valve setting procedure I mentioned. Take plug out, Pull those two little valve covers off; pull off the flywheel bolt and generator inspection covers.


Rotate the engine clockwise and watch those valves move. i use a deep well socket, a small extension  and a breaker handle. You can use a ratcheting handle — preference.

 

you’re looking to see if one of your valves fail to move, do both rocker arms move, etc. 

 

First step you’ll see the intake valves open. as you cycle you’ll see them close and flywheel T mark will pass by the inspection hole (TDC compression) keep cycling and the next thing both the exhaust valves will open and you’ll see the T mark again. Keep cycling and they will close and you’ll see the intake valves open again.

 

 

983BD135-8B7F-4A85-B309-A54BDAD356AF.jpeg

 

Yeah a bit of a bummer lol. 

I'll check out the valves over the next few days hopefully. I'll get back to you when I've checked them out.

Thanks for all the advice and info man, that diagram is really useful to help understand how the valves work.

Cheers 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
50 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

 

Yeah a bit of a bummer lol. 

I'll check out the valves over the next few days hopefully. I'll get back to you when I've checked them out.

Thanks for all the advice and info man, that diagram is really useful to help understand how the valves work.

Cheers 

I can't wait to send ya the bill for all this !!!, J/K !!!..LOL.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
11 hours ago, shadetree said:

I can't wait to send ya the bill for all this !!!, J/K !!!..LOL.

Oh yeah it's gonna get costly LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
15 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

Oh yeah it's gonna get costly LOL

lol, nahhh..with our help , yu'll save thousands on this repair !. just ask bcs man !!.lol.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi guys, hope everyone is having a nice time over the holidays. 

 

Just been looking through the manual and remembered about the cam chain tensioner. Would this impact my starting if its not putting the right tension onto the cam chain? I remember when I first took the engine out of the frame at the start of the build, the two bolts holding the tensioner in were very loose and I just tightened them up so it wasn't hanging out. Is there a specific setting for the tensioner? 

Thanks guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
12 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

Hi guys, hope everyone is having a nice time over the holidays. 

 

Just been looking through the manual and remembered about the cam chain tensioner. Would this impact my starting if its not putting the right tension onto the cam chain? I remember when I first took the engine out of the frame at the start of the build, the two bolts holding the tensioner in were very loose and I just tightened them up so it wasn't hanging out. Is there a specific setting for the tensioner? 

Thanks guys!

if the cam chain tensioner was loose ?, then most certainly it effects the starting !..lol. this would mean the timing is off from a stretched cam chain. you need a new cam chain. the tensioner is automatic bro, its spring loaded, once you release the screw inside it ?, it springs out, and locks into position to keep tension on the cam chain.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

here's how to tell if the cam chain is bad ?. remove the two bolts from the tensioner, pull it out from the cylinder, if the cam chain is too far stretched ?, you wont fill much resistance on the tensioner when you go to pull it out, now try to push it back into the cylinder, it should bottom out before the tensioner comes close to the cylinder, your looking for anywhere between 5/8-3/4 inch gap before it reaches cylinder. if the tensioner goes all the way to the cylinder bolt holes with ease ?, then your cam chain is too far stretched, and needs to be replaced.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...