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Hambone1913

Fourtraxs 300 1991

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The regulator of the  88-92 has a different part number than 93-up , when I look at the 1st and 2nd gen wiring prints , I don't see any differences on the regulator  or ignition switch wiring    ------ I got the CRS lately and can't remember if the regulators  will interchange  or not between the 1st and 2nd   gen and I been down that road before and want to say you need the correct gen --- I once had a problem with the regulator over charging and blowing the fuse , it was putting out 20volts when the engine was rev'ed , as long as you did not rev the engine it would sit there and idle  

 

here is a used OEM 1st gen regulator for a decent price , as I think when they where available they were like $250 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224705520018?epid=1111838379&hash=item34517e2192:g:dEkAAOSws9Bhm9za

 

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Hey FF how’s come some regulators have two pin connectors and some have the two in a single white connector?

Hambone which you have? Here’s one looks correctly listed off “a running driving unit.”

https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-88-93-Honda-Fourtrax-300-4x4-31600-HC4-010-Voltage-Regulator-A-/284070975334?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

Lotta sellers say “For Honda” and others outright mislead by saying “Brand: Honda” when clearly is not Honda.


ok hambone what else is going on here. Do you have a battery in this ATV? If not, you might damage the stator so get a battery. If so, suggest you put it on a trickle charger to keep it charged.

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3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

The regulator of the  88-92 has a different part number than 93-up , when I look at the 1st and 2nd gen wiring prints , I don't see any differences on the regulator  or ignition switch wiring    ------ I got the CRS lately and can't remember if the regulators  will interchange  or not between the 1st and 2nd   gen and I been down that road before and want to say you need the correct gen --- I once had a problem with the regulator over charging and blowing the fuse , it was putting out 20volts when the engine was rev'ed , as long as you did not rev the engine it would sit there and idle  

 

here is a used OEM 1st gen regulator for a decent price , as I think when they where available they were like $250 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224705520018?epid=1111838379&hash=item34517e2192:g:dEkAAOSws9Bhm9za

 

I have the right one coming according to the mechanic I some how talked in to looking at my ATV for free this week I will give him something we talk on the phone for over 30 minutes and he just has a small shop but stays buying think I will get a new battery from him. I put on a aftermarket starter And it has been working great for $48 he show me the new regulatorrectifier he buys for $21 dollars so I got one coming

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3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

The regulator of the  88-92 has a different part number than 93-up , when I look at the 1st and 2nd gen wiring prints , I don't see any differences on the regulator  or ignition switch wiring    ------ I got the CRS lately and can't remember if the regulators  will interchange  or not between the 1st and 2nd   gen and I been down that road before and want to say you need the correct gen --- I once had a problem with the regulator over charging and blowing the fuse , it was putting out 20volts when the engine was rev'ed , as long as you did not rev the engine it would sit there and idle  

 

here is a used OEM 1st gen regulator for a decent price , as I think when they where available they were like $250 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224705520018?epid=1111838379&hash=item34517e2192:g:dEkAAOSws9Bhm9za

 

Yep 88 to 92 are all the same stuff started to change in 93

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I have the right  Voltage regulator rectifier now put it on And no fuse is blowing but still no spark or neutral light or oil light I even had a cdi I that came with a coil I got  Month ago it doesn't work and the old old I think it is blowed all ground are good now I am at a lost. Now the # for a new cdi is Hc4 770 is this correct??? Because Honda doesn't make it any more and I really don't want to buy a used one

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I have the right  Voltage regulator rectifier now put it on And no fuse is blowing but still no spark or neutral light or oil light I even had a cdi I that came with a coil I got  Month ago it doesn't work and the old old I think it is blowed all ground are good now I am at a lost. Now the # for a new cdi is Hc4 770 is this correct??? Because Honda doesn't make it any more and I really don't want to buy a used one

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If it were me ,  I would buy a Rick's 1st gen CDI , I would only buy it from Rick's over the phone , as there were fakes out there on Ebay , Amazon and the net , and you want to talk with them to get the correct cdi for your 1st gen , they are closed till 1/4/2022 , Rick's MotorSports Electrics  1-800-521-0277 

 

I would not buy ANY new CDI that was not OEM  ,  except for Rick's , I would buy used OEM first 

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No neutral light or oil light? I don’t know how this could be a CDI fault 

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4 hours ago, Goober said:

No neutral light or oil light? I don’t know how this could be a CDI fault 

 I think he has more than one problem , since he says he changed the cdi to one that came with a coil and don't like used parts  , makes me think the cdi and coil are after market also ---- maybe i am trying to read too much into it 

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Yes but I don't have any shorts now and I won't but used I buy what I can return just ordered a CDI # HC4 770 which is the replacement for the   original part that is not sold anymore and it wasn't that cheap I ask my mechanic if he would get it he said that is all we buy and got it on sale and if I need to return it I can just take it back to Walmart because Walmart lets a lot of places go through them I may have just blown the lights but the reverse light still works

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12 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 I think he has more than one problem , since he says he changed the cdi to one that came with a coil and don't like used parts  , makes me think the cdi and coil are after market also ---- maybe i am trying to read too much into it 

Yes the ones that are just way to cheap don't work but I don't have the money to put a lot in it and tested 2 coils I have and the are in spec. I think when I did get in running I should have put everything back in the holders before doing a donut with in because that's when it stopped and the $35 carburetor was working great and the $45 starter works great to just did a  Synthetic oil change on it In hopes I get it running Just have to take the peacock off and put a new one on it Just need a good battery For it nowThe mechanic is going to look at it for me for free no charge unless he has to put parts on it So at least I can buy battery from him Good to make friends

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On 12/31/2021 at 10:41 PM, Goober said:

What carburetor did you remove—got a pic of it? Look on the side Keihin VE90C A? Bonus that’s OEM.

i recommend you rebuild it. We consider that when you’re ready and got spark.

 

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It same like no one really know about the Electrical on this bike I have try other sites but all I get is I will get a email but it's been over a week but I do see so.e of the same names so I don't need things like after market parts don't work  be the parts I need honda dosn't make them anymore so I have to get aftermarket parts ????

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4 minutes ago, Hambone1913 said:

It same like no one really know about the Electrical on this bike I have try other sites but all I get is I will get a email but it's been over a week but I do see so.e of the same names so I don't need things like after market parts don't work  be the parts I need honda dosn't make them anymore so I have to get aftermarket parts ????


Used OEM parts over new China parts any day. 
 

Trying to track down electrical issues when using questionable (at best) Chinese components is an exercise in futility 

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Well most of my parts get to me in 3 to 5 days waiting on a CDI I order 3 days ago may be in my mailbox now I have forgot to go look 

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