Loosing spark

[Goober 1,555]

Okay. 
Yeah I wouldn’t run it without a battery. The stator and reg/rec will try to charge the bad or missing battery and overwork. Maybe to failure 
 

 

Edited January 22, 2022 by Goober

[Andy bauska 27]

I've run it before, and i always thought it wasn't the best for it, but I don't think it will hurt it.

 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Where the ground wire bolts to the crankcase is a spot I had trouble with before , corrosion in the threads and on the electrical terminal end 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Have heard it many times that running without a battery will damage electrical components but I never seen it happen , have a buddy that ran his 300 for two years without a battery , back when we rode a lot , he   even rode at night a lot using the stock lights , he sold it about 3 -- 4 years ago  , the guy that bought it from him still has it and it still runs , it was me --- that one is a 96 with a Rick's CDI 

 

 

[Andy bauska 27]

Is the ground bolt you were talking about the one that shares a bolt with the starter? I had the engine completely stripped down, so, I don't think it should be an issue.

 

[ATC4ever 1,078]

On 1/21/2022 at 11:41 AM, jeepwm69 said:

Members here are from all over the world.  Lots of rednecks from the South LOL

And some of us arent even in the south  🤠

[Andy bauska 27]

I'm a redneck, and I live in the PNW haha.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

29 minutes ago, Andy bauska said:

I'm a redneck, and I live in the PNW haha.

PNW = Pacific North West ????  

[shadetree 5,864]

17 hours ago, Andy bauska said:

No, it does it with the battery too, I just have the rear fender off, to check plugs, and connections. Would running it without a battery cause damage to any of the electrical components?

 

YES !!!!. you can not run it without a battery !!!, you run the risk of burning out the stator , reg/rec..this is very important !. yes..folks run them without a battery..yes...they will run without a battery...YES..this is a very big NO NO !. DON'T RUN THE ATV WITHOUT A BATTERY !!.

[shadetree 5,864]

one last time, and i'll leave this thread alone, my money say's the c.d.i. is the problem ?, or its a carb issue ?. i know you said you swapped c.d.i.'s, carbs, all that..but again..the c.d.i. is what controls the spark all throughout the rpm range. what ever the problem is..its a fuel issue ?, or electronic issue..that is where my money is.

[Andy bauska 27]

48 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

PNW = Pacific North West ????  

That's right!

 

[Andy bauska 27]

7 minutes ago, shadetree said:

one last time, and i'll leave this thread alone, my money say's the c.d.i. is the problem ?, or its a carb issue ?. i know you said you swapped c.d.i.'s, carbs, all that..but again..the c.d.i. is what controls the spark all throughout the rpm range. what ever the problem is..its a fuel issue ?, or electronic issue..that is where my money is.

Well, I actually thought it was a carb problem, so I bought different jets to play around with it. I couldn't get it to run right, and my dad suggested ignition timing. So, we hooked a timing light to it, and indeed we had a problem with loosing spark. So like I said we changed the spark plug, coil, and cdi box. It sounded identical every time I changed anything. We tested the PG with a voltmeter, and like I said only 0.2 ohms within spec. I haven't had it out to look at it/ replace it, so it's still a suspect. I'll know for sure when I get the new one. Since my brother was having cdi trouble with his 1990 300, he bought a brand-new OEM box, and I tried it just because I was curious, and it was exactly the same. Said box is for an 88-93. And since this is the 4th box I've had in there, I think it's safe to say I rule out the box. If you have any other ideas, let me know, and I can try them.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

57 minutes ago, shadetree said:

one last time, and i'll leave this thread alone, my money say's the c.d.i. is the problem ?, or its a carb issue ?. i know you said you swapped c.d.i.'s, carbs, all that..but again..the c.d.i. is what controls the spark all throughout the rpm range. what ever the problem is..its a fuel issue ?, or electronic issue..that is where my money is.

When he first started with the problem , I  thought for sure it was the diaphragm in the carb with a crack or hole in it , but ..... 

[Andy bauska 27]

Funny story, the insulator boot on the motor side of the carb had a nice big split it, and it was sucking air past it, in effect making the mixture leaner. I patched it up, and it ran so much better, but not as good as I would've liked. So we started to investigate other stuff that might cause it to not run right. And now we're here. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

1 hour ago, Andy bauska said:

Funny story, the insulator boot on the motor side of the carb had a nice big split it, and it was sucking air past it, in effect making the mixture leaner. I patched it up, and it ran so much better, but not as good as I would've liked. So we started to investigate other stuff that might cause it to not run right. And now we're here. 

Patched it up ?   Hmmm.  I might  try the boot off your Dad’s 93 if yours is patched up and with a good o ring. Mss asBye a smear of Honda bond.   Do you know about spraying starting fluid around the boot connections to check for leaks.  It will rev up if there is a leak. 

[Andy bauska 27]

I actually took the boot of my dad's, and it immediately ran better. So, I glued up mine, and it seemed better. I've heard about what you said, but with shaving cream. But starting fluid is a better way to do it in my opinion. Btw Dad's honda is a 1991.

 

[shadetree 5,864]

3 hours ago, Andy bauska said:

Well, I actually thought it was a carb problem, so I bought different jets to play around with it. I couldn't get it to run right, and my dad suggested ignition timing. So, we hooked a timing light to it, and indeed we had a problem with loosing spark. So like I said we changed the spark plug, coil, and cdi box. It sounded identical every time I changed anything. We tested the PG with a voltmeter, and like I said only 0.2 ohms within spec. I haven't had it out to look at it/ replace it, so it's still a suspect. I'll know for sure when I get the new one. Since my brother was having cdi trouble with his 1990 300, he bought a brand-new OEM box, and I tried it just because I was curious, and it was exactly the same. Said box is for an 88-93. And since this is the 4th box I've had in there, I think it's safe to say I rule out the box. If you have any other ideas, let me know, and I can try them.

ok..i lied...that was not my last post in this thread..for anyone not aware of ?. the 1988 trx300fw was a ONE YEAR ONLY C.D.I. !. i know this for a fact.

[Andy bauska 27]

Ok, maybe my brother bought an 89-93? Idk. Are 90 and 93 boxes the same?

[shadetree 5,864]

Just now, Andy bauska said:

Ok, maybe my brother bought an 89-93? Idk. Are 90 and 93 boxes the same?

that i do not know ?..but i do know 1988 is a one year only.

[shadetree 5,864]

if ya go to partzilla.com , look up a 1988 trx300fw, then the c.d.i. then click on that, you can clearly see. that c.d.i. ONLY fits that year model.

[Andy bauska 27]

I am on Partzilla RN, and it goes 88, 89-93, 94-97 (some are 94 and 95) and 98-00

[shadetree 5,864]

Just now, Andy bauska said:

I am on Partzilla RN, and it goes 88, 89-93, 94-97 (some are 94 and 95) and 98-00

say's on my screen..only 1988

 

[Andy bauska 27]

Yeah, that's right.

 

[Andy bauska 27]

88, then 89-93

 

[shadetree 5,864]

Honda 30410-HC4-003 - IGNITION CONTROL MODULE | Partzilla.com bam !.