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Anitomical

2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 4x4 one-way gear

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On 1/26/2022 at 3:59 PM, Fishfiles said:

 

 

I know you say it can only go into the flywheel  one certain way , but can maybe  the rollers come out of the cage  and be flipped  around  ??? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also this is a picture of the rollers, none of them look out of place and they look fine.
And I noticed when I try to use the starter, it starts to spin, then gets hard to spin, and then I kinda hear a little metal clunk and the starter gear kinda wobbles when that happens? So something maybe uneven even though I put everything on right and I torque them down properly.

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Hard to tell from that unclear pic ,  it does look like they are all facing the same way , but  it looks like some of  the sprag rollers are kind of buffed  up 

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13 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Hard to tell from that unclear pic ,  it does look like they are all facing the same way , but  it looks like some of  the sprag rollers are kind of buffed  up 

Yeah I'm sorry, I don't really have a great phone, only 8MP for the front camera 😅, I can try to take it apart and get more pictures of the the whole assembly

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31 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Hard to tell from that unclear pic ,  it does look like they are all facing the same way , but  it looks like some of  the sprag rollers are kind of buffed  up 

Hopefully these are a little bit better

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Sorry for the horrible quality again, but I'm not fully sure if this should do this. The one-way gear spins in the direction it should (it's actually going the opposite way in this because I have it flipped around so it's easier to do/show) but if I barely press on the one-way bearing and move it the way that it locks up, it just spins and doesn't lock up. 

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Looks bad to me , I'd say  get a new one -----  is a  new  one even available  , some Honda one way bearings  are no longer available 

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9 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Looks bad to me , I'd say  get a new one -----  is a  new  one even available  , some Honda one way bearings  are no longer available 

Yes, they're around $33, but a OEM one comes with the one-way gear and that's over $200

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Ok so I FINALLY got it running, (she's a tad bit smoky when she warms up but I believe that's because of the left over oil that was in the exhaust maybe?) but when I go to adjust the idle, it doesn't adjust and it idles pretty high. And i'm pretty sure it's running lean and I can't figure out where the A/F screw is

Just thought I'd update y'all

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22 minutes ago, Anitomical said:

Ok so I FINALLY got it running,

what did you do to get it running 

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I got a new one way bearing and I obviously did a top end rebuild and it started up almost instantly. It already runs better than before despite the high idle and it running lean

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Wow you not kidding about running fast idle.   Is it a oem carb. Has the Carb been cleaned.  Does the Suzuki carb have a choke butterfly or a enrichment plunger.  

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

Wow you not kidding about running fast idle.   Is it a oem carb. Has the Carb been cleaned.  Does the Suzuki carb have a choke butterfly or a enrichment plunger.  

It has a oem carb, no because the bolts are completely stripped so I can't take off the bowl, and it has a enrichment plunger. I didn't mess with anything when I took the carb off and when I put it back on, I kept the carb in a clean environment so it shouldn't be that bad? But yet again, I'm not fully sure. I also have another video that I just took with it idling after a minute (not good by the way)...

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Just now, Anitomical said:

It has a oem carb, no because the bolts are completely stripped so I can't take off the bowl, and it has a enrichment plunger. I didn't mess with anything when I took the carb off and when I put it back on, I kept the carb in a clean environment so it shouldn't be that bad? But yet again, I'm not fully sure. I also have another video that I just took with it idling after a minute (not good by the way)...

 

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It is running hard on a fresh rebuild , you need to fix that 

 

Is that enrichment  plunger frozen up / stuck , or the cable frozen up ? 

 

On them carb bowl screws , I have had luck with a mini pair of Vise-Grips when they are frozen up and stripped ?

 

Or a Dremel with a grinding wheel and cut a slot in to the top for a flat screwdriver , or one of them hammer drivers 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

It is running hard on a fresh rebuild , you need to fix that 

 

Is that enrichment  plunger frozen up / stuck , or the cable frozen up ? 

 

On them carb bowl screws , I have had luck with a mini pair of Vise-Grips when they are frozen up and stripped ?

 

Or a Dremel with a grinding wheel and cut a slot in to the top for a flat screwdriver , or one of them hammer drivers 

I was thinking about doing that last part, but nothing is frozen and everything works as it should. And I don't believe it's the jets because it's a OEM style piston

Also I tried to move it under it's own power and it just took off and I wasn't even on the throttle, I shut it off immediately so i didnt ruin anything

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10 hours ago, Anitomical said:

I was thinking about doing that last part, but nothing is frozen and everything works as it should. And I don't believe it's the jets because it's a OEM style piston

Also I tried to move it under it's own power and it just took off and I wasn't even on the throttle, I shut it off immediately so i didnt ruin anything

 

I have heard people say that an air leak in the intake can cause a high idle , never really experienced it , but heard it said just recently 

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I'd check your enrichment valve/ choke, and if you spray starter fluid around the intake boot and there's a leak, you should hear a change in the idle.

 

Those 300's have a carb that runs downhill into the head, so if you get a sticky/leaky float needle they fill the engine up with gas.

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I took the intake boot off last night and put gasket sealer on it to see if that will help, I need to put the carburetor and stuff back on later to see if that worked

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Well I was gonna start it today, but it doesn't have enough gas to fill the bowl, so tomorrow I will try to get gas and then prime the carb and then I'll update y'all later tomorrow

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I was thinking about your high idle issue , wonder if throttle cable routing is an issue , by any chance did you pull and tug on cables , or routed it differently 

 

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5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I was thinking about your high idle issue , wonder if throttle cable routing is an issue , by any chance did you pull and tug on cables , or routed it differently 

 

I don't believe so, but I remember when I put the cable back on, right before I did I turned the idle knob until it was just barely touching the thing. And as soon as I put the cable on, it was about a centimeter off of the idle knob. Also I did think about the whole rerouting thing so I tried multiple routes and it was always the same.

But I'm pretty sure the high idle was because of the intake boot might've been leaking. The reason I think that is not only because of how hot the exhaust was getting almost instantly, but when I put the choke on it idled down to where it should be

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9 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I was thinking about your high idle issue , wonder if throttle cable routing is an issue , by any chance did you pull and tug on cables , or routed it differently 

 

I'm truly at a lose for words? I tried it just now, and it didn't work, but randomly it worked and I went to adjust the idle because it was way to low and then it shut off and  then I turned it back on (it didn't want to start at first) went back to the extremely high idle. Then I decided to give it some manual choke (hand slightly over the intake) and it idled down but when I went to go rev it a little, it just died. Then I decided to take out the spark plug to see if that had any signs of if it was running rich or lean... and when I took it out it was covered in soot. Like I rubbed my finger across it lightly and it instantly looked cleaner. I'm at a complete lose of words and I have no clue why it's doing this. When I had the carb off, I adjusted the A/F screw to about 1 and a half turns, I believe it was at about 2 and a half. I want to adjust the A/F again but it's at the bottom of the carb and you can't get to it unless you take it off which is ! to put back on.

(Also when I rev it up in general, it sometimes stays at that rpm for a few seconds without lowering in rpm? That's without the manual choke.)

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On 2/25/2022 at 10:14 AM, jeepwm69 said:

I'd check your enrichment valve/ choke, and if you spray starter fluid around the intake boot and there's a leak, you should hear a change in the idle.

 

Those 300's have a carb that runs downhill into the head, so if you get a sticky/leaky float needle they fill the engine up with gas.

Looks like I might have to take the carb apart then because this is probably what's happening...

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