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29 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

are you going back with the hood scoop, and 383 stroked badges ? 


absolutely!!!

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On 12/30/2019 at 2:22 PM, Fishfiles said:

I worked on this truck today , the windshield wipers , belongs to  the owner of a company I work on their heavy equipment , don't usually like to venture off working on heavy equipment and stay away from  trucks and such , but this one is cool , 1966 Chevy PU , with a 2016 LSA Supercharged engine and drive train , it is  for sale , I still didn't ask how much ---- Inthink it would be nicer with some paint 

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T0BOz10AQROq6xga0kHhVw.jpg

Nicer yes, but you can get more races done with a "sleeper".... ask how I know

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On 1/27/2020 at 6:54 AM, jeepwm69 said:

Lucas, Lord of Darkness.

 

Dad had a Triumph TR3 in his younger days.  Between that and the odd MG around town I quickly learned that the electrical systems from the 60's British cars weren't exactly the best.

 

http://mez.co.uk/lucas.html

 

Of course, my 80's vintage AMC Jeeps are just as bad.  Have to run dedicated grounds everywhere because apparently AMC just decided to let the metal to metal contact between panels serve as grounds for all the electrical stuff.

Y'all do know why Brits prefer room temperature ales?

Lucas makes refrigerators too

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I swung by the shop yesterday. My truck hasn’t moved!! Not happy. I’ll be talking to them tomorrow & see what’s up. I have to upgrade my torque converter as well. I only have stock stall (1650rpm) & even now at a red light I have to toss in N & rev up a bit. She idles at like 600rpm under load & if I up the idle it was dieseling. Even the shop said with new heads & cam I need to change. I’m thinking 2200-2400 stall... 

Edited by Wheeler
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I was at the shop today... he says they will be at it this week. However i had to make a decision. What cam.. I currently have a flat tappet Comp 08-302-8. He has the ZZ383 cam & ZZ4 cam which he said would be better for my application. I talked to a buddy who knows about chevs a lot. He agreed that the ZZ4 cam better option & to step up to a 2200rpm stall. We considered 1.6 rockers, but for now will stick with 1.5s & see how this combo works... Oh man soo much to figure out.. 

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Just got off the phone with the shop. 
 

after he consulted the Tranny Specialist in BC (TCS is the name)  they figured the best Torque Convertor for my application/cam would be a 1800-2200rpm stall. 
 

The Cam specs are here as well as the Head Specs. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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you sure have some skilled / knowledgeable people at that shop, they've been about over every inch of that truck so far, when y'all get done, it will sure be a hotrod! she's just about there now! and, i sure have enjoyed your build.

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I don't mean to be a negative nellie Wheeler, but that ZZ4 cam is nothing more than a lazy 350 cam. Its an under-performer in 350 motors and will be quite a bit worse performer in your larger 383. I wouldn't put that cam in any motor, its a lazy piece of junk. Sorry but I gotta offer my honest appraisal. You can do a lot better than that.

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The heads that you are putting on your 383 are very, very good. And I agree that the TC stall should not exceed 2200 RPMs. You've received good advice so far on those two components.... but that cam has got to go.

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@retro The cam specs are a tad bit better than my comp cam 08-308-8 now which is t a roller cam. What would you suggest for a cam to keep me happy & able to pull hard at 3k rpm towing 7k??

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My memories are bad... I cannot remember the configs that you are running.  PM me the parts list ya got in the motor (including header primary tubing diameter & length), in the trans, the gearing & the tire height and I'll break out my old engine design stuff & calculate an optimum hydraulic roller camshaft for ya. Then you can buy one like it off the shelf somewhere if ya wish?

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I have been in conversation with Wheeler by PMs and I have designed & computer dyno'd a custom hydraulic roller camshaft for his 383 stroker. This cam works with stock OEM roller lifters and it provides gobs of torque at 3000 RPMs and below. More importantly, the torque peak falls well below 3000 RPMs... at about 2000 RPMs, as demanded by his 7000+ lbs heavy towing application.

 

This cam optimizes the 383 stroker for maximum torque in the RPM range the motor must work MOST of the time due to torque converter stall, final gearing and the highway speed limit. 😀

In short, it will resemble a small diesel motor in its ability to get the heavy camper weight moving from a stop and accelerate the heavy weight up to highway speeds, with excellent cruising speed hill-climbing performance. It will pull very HARD from the torque converter stall RPM up to 4000 RPMs, where measured torque still remains above 400 ft. lbs! Fuel economy should be quite good as well!

 

Peak Torque is 480 ft. lbs. @ 2000 RPMs!

Peak HP is 320@4500 RPMs *** (see explanation below)

 

This cam is priced at about USD $360 and should be custom ordered from Isky Cams. Delivery estimate is about 2 weeks.

 

The custom roller cam spec sheet is as follows:

 

cam-specs.png

 

* Not listed directly on the above camshaft data sheet: Lobe Separation Angle  = 110 degrees. (Intake centerline = 108 degrees / Exhaust centerline = 112 degrees)

 

This is the graph & data results spit out by the computer dyno simulator:

 

graph.png

 

table.png

 

data.png

 

This 383 is a stump puller on pump gas. It will make enough torque to destroy driveline parts if you plant your foot to the floor at the wrong time & place. Have fun!

 

 

*** For those wondering why the peak HP appears low (you're not used to seeing this sort of discrepancy on street/strip motor dyno sheets eh?).... and is lower than the peak torque....! Well, at 5252 RPMs the HP figure & Torque figure are precisely the same on all dyno'd motors. The reason for that is because HP is not a measurement of power output, it is a calculation derived from actual measured torque output vs RPMs (time). So, while operating RPMs are below 5252, the HP figure will always be less than the torque figure at any given RPM. Conversely, at all RPMs above 5252, the HP figure will always be larger than the torque figure. This motor is optimized to do WORK at 3000 RPMs and below. It's 320 HP figure is very, very good actually! However the HP calculation is completely irrelevant! Torque = Work!

 

Motor/Dyno data (.PDF):

ht383.pdf

🤠

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Tuning tips for the above High Torque 383:

 

Max Ignition timing: 34 degrees BTDC (Timing advance all-in: ~2500 - ~2800 RPMs). You may experiment with all-in timing advance RPM to optimize performance within this range.

Using your transmission controller, lower the WOT shift points for each gear to about 3500 RPMs max for speedy-est acceleration from a dead stop and optimum fuel efficiency. You may discover that it likes 3000-3200 WOT shift points even better. Experiment & test.... or run it on a chassis dyno to find optimal tuning.

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Wheeler , I think you are that guy that would be doing upgrades to a brand new  LS crate motor , LOL  

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Geez had to go back thru these to make sure i dont repost the same pics LOL... long thread 😛
Buddy of mine got this red Duster, then got it painted black. Me with the Chevelle & Dwight with the red Mustang. 66 Chevelle with the 350-3 on the tree still in it, 74 Duster, had a built 360 & the 68 Mustang had a built (69) 302. Oh & my Nighthawk 450 beside the Duster.

ms dust.jpg

3 of us.jpg

Edited by ATC4ever
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