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Bman

Foreman 450 ES basket care restoration.

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Sorry I should clarify. I mean the electric shifting as in the ESP. The gear box.  My current front diff is all time. Not selectable. 

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27 minutes ago, Bman said:

Sorry I should clarify. I mean the electric shifting as in the ESP. The gear box.  My current front diff is all time. Not selectable. 

Oh , that is like gambling , some are luckier than others 

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Gotcha. Just wanted to know if there is anything I shouldn't do. Situations where up or down shifting would damage it

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

If everything is working properly , then it should not let you engage the front diff if you going too fast 

i can go in and out of 4wd on my '03 trx450s at any speed, not sure why you could not ?.

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From what I understand it is suppose to " not " engage the front diff unless the speed is low enough to not cause damage to the diff , that is why there are two speed sensors on the set up , on at the diff and one on the drive shaft going into the diff ----  it appears something is not right with your set up , be careful 

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

From what I understand it is suppose to " not " engage the front diff unless the speed is low enough to not cause damage to the diff , that is why there are two speed sensors on the set up , on at the diff and one on the drive shaft going into the diff ----  it appears something is not right with your set up , be careful 

can't answer that ^^ ?, all i know is..it will shift in and out at any speed..but i don't go fast anyway when shifting from 2wd to 4wd. maybe you got a bad front diff ?, or a bad control box on yers ?..dont know.

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

From what I understand it is suppose to " not " engage the front diff unless the speed is low enough to not cause damage to the diff , that is why there are two speed sensors on the set up , on at the diff and one on the drive shaft going into the diff ----  it appears something is not right with your set up , be careful 

Front and rear speed sensors have to be reading the same speed for it to engage.  

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Out of curiosity. Did honda produce a front diff that also has diff lock that could be made to fit into the Foremans?

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9 hours ago, Bman said:

Out of curiosity. Did honda produce a front diff that also has diff lock that could be made to fit into the Foremans?

I don't know of any model Hondas that have diff lock , there is an aftermarket Locker, @Wheeler installed on on his 300 , I do read that people who have lockers say , you need to have selectable  4wd on the front diff cause steering is hard without it  

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Torqmasters makes a locker.  Not sure if it fits the electric 4x4 machines though.  Don’t know why it wouldn’t since the ring and pinion are the same as the non locking

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Yes @Fishfiles even with the Torq locker I have, steering is more difficult. However NOTHING like a spool locker. I would NOT run either locker without a 424 kick out personally… my 2c

 

 

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so some part updates.  

 

Couldn't find the reverse cable new anywhere but partzilla. was used ones on ebay for 17$. figured id pay the 20 + shipping to partszilla for a new one. Weelll the next day i get an email update saying the cables is backordered till who knows when. so back to eBay i went and ordered the used cable. 

 

Ive decided im gonna go straight to a disc conversion on the front because i HATE these honda drum breaks.  

 

Orignal display/dash was trashed. And this being an ES ive found you can't find a new one. OR any used really. but i found one for 40$ on ebay listed as non-working. So i rolled the dice and lucked up. other than some UV damage to the screen it actually functions perfect.  You can see the difference. The Original is trashed from weather and sun damage. The board is damaged and badly water damaged. I removed the sun cooked film on the lcd to see it display and it would sometimes display and other times not at all.  The New-used one is in way better condition and works fine, just the UV damage. plan on sending it to get fixed. 

 

Picked up a tune up for it. filters and spark plug. 

 

Still gotta find a rear rack and taillights. 

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So while I'm still waiting on parts.  I decided to take a look at the rear brake.  Ofcourse it was seized up, but not stuck engaged.  So I removed the adjusters and set to working the lever. Well I got it moving but still too tight and not returning so I finally resigned myself to tearing the brake apart.  I knew from the beginning I'd be doing this. I just wanted to delay the inevitable. 

 

And while it wasn't the worst I've done it did have its highlights.  Such as the nut holding that hub on must have been put on there by impact. And a big one at that. It took heating it and ALOT of leverage and it finally broke loose. Though thankfully the hub and drum came right off. It was full of an "ash" like that which would be in a fire pit. I figure it's probably a corrosion of sorts. I'll attach some pics.

 

Anyhow I cleaned that all up and pulled apart that lever and cam. Cleaned it and greased it and it moves great. Sanded the pads and did my best on the drum. Drum still needs some attention but I was just shooting for a functional brake for the time being.  

 

It's "working" now, but only with the hand break lever. Wouldn't trust it on a hill, but it will get you stopped.  The foot lever pivot is seized up pretty solid so I gotta get after that, but plan on getting new shoes and maybe a drum before tackling that. 

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need rear rake shoes with new return springs, a good sanding/clean up of the drum, will be good on the brake area. all castle nuts on atvs ( most anyway ) are put on with an impact, you don't need heat ( unless the nut is rusted on the axle ? ) to remove them. as for the foot brake lever ?..well..yeah..these are a royal pain to get moving once they seize !!. it deff will take a bottle of map gas, and a ton of curse words to get them off..and cleaned up, greased, put back on. if you go the heat/gas way ?, watch out for seals on both sides of the lever, and some have a plastic bushing on the shaft stud. i normally heat the crap outta that lever on the stud, work it up and down with a mallet to get it free'd up, then use a pry bar behind the lever between it, and the frame, and work it back off the stud as i am hammering it up and down. if and when i get it off ?, i then drill, tap out a spot for a grease fitting ( zerk ), then i never worry about them rusting out again !.

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I don't like to impact these if I can avoid it. I'd prefer to feel the nut move so I can get a feel for how the threads are doing.   And it was rusted a bit, but not terrible. Took some heat and 1/2 drive breaker bar and everything I had to break it loose.   I'm honestly surprised the drum and hub slid right off. Last foreman I had apart it took a slide hammer to move them.    But that foreman was absolutely beat on.  It was a testament to Honda durability.   

 

And yeah I plan on replacing them soon because while they are now working they aren't working great. I just wanted to be able to move it around without pushing it and brakes were a must to do that haha. I live on a hill so nothing but my garage floor is level. 

 

I did get an update on the reverse cable from partszilla. May 9th supposedly.    

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FYI Bman,

Power Sports Nation has rear rack and tail light listed for sale.

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Got a rack ordered and some tail lights. should be in soon.

 

Oil change looked great. Filter wasn't full of metal or anything. And surprisingly I checked the Diffs and the gear oil wasn't bad at all.  Hopefully this one doesn't kill its rear axel like my old one did. 

 

My luck with the carb working fine without touching it ran out. Still runs great but the carb is pouring gas out of the overflow.  Trash in the needle valve id say. 

 

Got my used reverse cable and Im procrastinating installing it. 

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So I got the reverse cable installed. Actually pretty easy when it comes to routing of the cable. Nice to be able to use reverse to move it out of the garage without risking death haha. Reaching under and pulling the lever while shifting it into reverse was getting pretty dicey. 

 

Also got the rear rack  I ordered. In good shape. It's got surface rust, but so does the front rack. Plan on repainting them and the bumper.  

 

Got the taillights in as well and while they aren't exactly like OEM( OEM seem to fill the opening in the fender a bit better).  they are pretty close and definitely a good replacement. 

 

The carb i fixed by simply tapping the bowl.  So far it's Me 2 carb 0.  Took the quad out a few times just shorter trips from my house to the creek to fish and it's doing great.  I enjoy being able to putt along in a higher gear nice and quiet.   And the electric shift is growing on me. 

 

Turns out the odometer I put in to replace the broken one has an interesting idea of units of measurement. The MPH is spot on. However. It rolled over from the 999999.9 milage reading and now it thinks I've ridden 22 miles.  Hour meter is still stuck on 9999.9

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