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If you have not painted them rims yet , my favorite paint primer is Rustoleum Self Etching  Primer , it is self leveling , sticks superbly  , comes out the can and lays flat like you sprayed it with a gun 

 

I presume your getting new tires ?   Did you ever see the tires that the first 90s came with , air balloon tires

 

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1976 is not the first year  ----   I see a 1970 model ATC90 , that  is the oldest I seen so far , this lime green one is supposed to be a 1971 ---  pre-1976 on Partzilla  they are  list as models with no years 

 

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5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

1976 is not the first year  ----   I see a 1970 model ATC90 , that  is the oldest I seen so far , this lime green one is supposed to be a 1971 ---  pre-1976 on Partzilla  they are  list as models with no years 

 

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I agree, I'm not sure when they first came out but I remember seeing the 90 in 1972 or 1973?

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The Initial US90 was offered at $595 in 1970, and featured an 89cc engine producing 7 hp. The US90 designation was used until 1973, when Honda successfully trademarked the moniker ‘All Terrain Cycle’.[2] The designation was then changed to ATC90.   

 

This is from Wikipedia I think maybe they were for sale in japan earleir

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Edited by farmerbrown
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9 hours ago, farmerbrown said:

The Initial US90 was offered at $595 in 1970, and featured an 89cc engine producing 7 hp. The US90 designation was used until 1973, when Honda successfully trademarked the moniker ‘All Terrain Cycle’.[2] The designation was then changed to ATC90.   

 

This is from Wikipedia I think maybe they were for sale in japan earleir

.

Yes , I read that the first ones were introduced in Japan , I would guess around 1969 ----  they started R+D in 1967 in Japan and the first  model  hit the USA  in 1970 ---- I  never realised they came out so early , my first one was a 1982 ATC200 , then I upgraded to the 1986 ATC250ES 

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If you want to completely remove the rust, i use cleaning vinegar and BBs. Cleaning vinegar is usually a little higher acidity. My tank looked like yours and had a rubber glove, a screwdriver and something else in there.

you may not be able to do this until you get the holes sealed:  i remove tank cap and petcock. i pour in a pound of BBs and 2/3s volume of the tank with vinegar. Then i seal up the tank, wrap it in bubble wrap, then put it in a cardboard box, and then wedge the box in my cement mixer. 

 

i run the cement mixer for 3 hours, about halfway thru i reposition the tank so BBs work a different area. The BBs loosen the rust flakes and polish the tank interior. You can remove the BBs with a magnet.

 

I rinse the cleaned tank with water that has the pH adjusted high using spa chemicals—otherwise the tank surface will get flash rust. Then i dry with a hair dryer but not so hot that it will discolor the paint. Hot air goes in tank and comes out petcock. so if you still have fuel vapors in your tank, using a hair dryer could ignite them!!
 

Should be able to successfully apply the POR 15 sealant after tank is cleaned. I had no holes but had to repaint my tank anyway. Here’s my tank after two washings. Then i rinse out the tank with some gasoline to flush any trace of spa chemicals or other fines. 

 

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3FCC7D62-586F-4D44-BC4B-307C97B2FBD0.jpeg

Edited by Goober
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Yeah I was using vinegar. by fuel tank is getting mostly shiny on the inside but when I tipped it upside down my tape job on the the fuel fill hole didn't hold so I lost my vinegar and we don't have enough to fill it back up. I don't think sealer will hardly hold as it is.😒

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It’s possible to weld it but might be less expensive to buy a used one.

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I didn't work on it any this weekend because of end of school activities but I'm back at it today. Most of my parts have arrived but I'm still waiting on piston rings. I need 2 4 inch pieces of fuel hose and I can't find any around the farm but I did find an old 450S carb and the vent hoses on it are the correct size. I suppose that wouldn't be safe to use that but I'm not sure. Thanks

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Well folks probably time for an update. I did get it back together not too long after my last post and didn't start for no apparent reason had spark, fuel, and compression. Eventually my older brother came over did nothing different and it fired right up.:classic_angry: Anyways it ran for that day and the next and then quit. I work on it for a while (can't remember what I did) didn't ever start. Just lately I got inspired (sorta) and I adjusted the valves, cleaned and adjusted the carb, and messed with the timing some didn't start. Then just today while cleaning the shop I yanked the starter cord with no faith and it fired right up :classic_angry:. It ran most of the afternoon and now it won't start like it has no spark. So what might it be?  Condenser? Coil? Plug? Plug wire?

 

 

Edited by farmerbrown

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14 hours ago, farmerbrown said:

Well folks probably time for an update. I did get it back together not too long after my last post and didn't start for no apparent reason had spark, fuel, and compression. Eventually my older brother came over did nothing different and it fired right up.:classic_angry: Anyways it ran for that day and the next and then quit. I work on it for a while (can't remember what I did) didn't ever start. Just lately I got inspired (sorta) and I adjusted the valves, cleaned and adjusted the carb, and messed with the timing some didn't start. Then just today while cleaning the shop I yanked the starter cord with no faith and it fired right up :classic_angry:. It ran most of the afternoon and now it won't start like it has no spark. So what might it be?  Condenser? Coil? Plug? Plug wire?

 

 

You try a new NGK spark plug?  I know that sounds stupid, but sometimes they're iffy and inspection can't see it.

 

I don't know much about the electrical system on the ATCs, but it sounds like a bad electrical connection somewhere intermittently interfering with your spark.

 

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I found an thread on Honda Atv forums where a guy suggested the plug cap for a person with a similar problem. They apparently have a "anti noise" resister that can cause these problems.  He also suggested cutting a bit off of the coil wire which I tried to no avail. I should try a new plug.

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47 minutes ago, farmerbrown said:

I found an thread on Honda Atv forums where a guy suggested the plug cap for a person with a similar problem. They apparently have a "anti noise" resister that can cause these problems.  He also suggested cutting a bit off of the coil wire which I tried to no avail. I should try a new plug.

You need to confirm that it loses spark before doing anything else. Pick out a screw driver or something similar that fits into the spark plug cap and can also be positioned so the steel shank can spark against a cooling fin or anything else that is clean and grounded, Then when it dies again, quickly check the spark by the proven method you came up with. Two very common problems are a dirty kill switch and a coil wire. The coil wire/spark plug lead can be trimmed back about a half inch or more which exposes a non corroded portion. The black plastic cap just screws out of the wire and screws back into the wire. The resistor you mentioned can cause problems as well.

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The kill switch can just be unplugged because all it does is bypass the plug and I tried when it was running once. Yes I did trim the wire back to some non corroded wire.       

 

I have been pulling the plug and holding it against the head to check spark but it seems there is rarely visible spark. I will try using a screwdriver or something.

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47 minutes ago, Misterclean said:

You need to confirm that it loses spark before doing anything else. Pick out a screw driver or something similar that fits into the spark plug cap and can also be positioned so the steel shank can spark against a cooling fin or anything else that is clean and grounded, Then when it dies again, quickly check the spark by the proven method you came up with. Two very common problems are a dirty kill switch and a coil wire. The coil wire/spark plug lead can be trimmed back about a half inch or more which exposes a non corroded portion. The black plastic cap just screws out of the wire and screws back into the wire. The resistor you mentioned can cause problems as well.

You don't mention the condenser so apparently that can't be the problem. I'm just trying to figure out what parts to order.

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31 minutes ago, farmerbrown said:

You don't mention the condenser so apparently that can't be the problem. I'm just trying to figure out what parts to order.

Only very old ignition systems use points and condenser. I assumed this was a CDI ignition. Ps. Never check spark thru a spark plug gap because a bad spark plug will spark with no compression and then lose spark under compression.

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3 hours ago, farmerbrown said:

You don't mention the condenser so apparently that can't be the problem. I'm just trying to figure out what parts to order.

I scrolled up to see this was an old Honda three wheeler.......I forgot what you were working on. LOL I read the every response to get caught up on the subject and forgot. By the way, from my experience, I have never seen a bad condenser prevent spark. I will cause an erratic spark which can be very difficult to diagnose. Usually the points go bad before the condenser which is why most don't know what a bad condenser does to an ignition system when it is literally the only thing wrong.

Edited by Misterclean
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This evening I tested the spark with a screwdriver and it was fairly strong. I tested spark with and without the boot on the wire and it didn't seem to make a difference. So now I think it's probably the plug. We will see when it gets here.

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 I don't know the mechanics of a ATC90 , I do know the history of it , which is pretty cool , as it was the first ATC --- anyways , I was looking at a Partzilla part break down to see if it had points or not , seen they had a condenser , coil and stator listed , but never did find points , then I found this wiring diagram and it shows " contact breaker " , which I would consider points , what year is yours 

 

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It's a 76'

 

Here's the part diagram off of partzilla. The points a on one end of the camshaft.

MjAzNjI2OA-0934ddbd.png

 

Edited by farmerbrown
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Was wondering where they were hidden at ,  should have known , my first bike was made like  that , a 1972 Honda CT70 Mini Trail , I had some fun with that one ---

 

I remember using the cover of  a pack of paper matches as a feeler gauge to set the points on anything with points ----

 

I had a Bronco with a Mallory dual point distributor , double trouble , till I figured out it would run with one set of points 

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10 hours ago, farmerbrown said:

This evening I tested the spark with a screwdriver and it was fairly strong. I tested spark with and without the boot on the wire and it didn't seem to make a difference. So now I think it's probably the plug. We will see when it gets here.

Good idea.......when in doubt, replace the spark plug. I would trim off some of the coil wire for insurance.

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On 1/27/2023 at 8:10 AM, Fishfiles said:

Was wondering where they were hidden at ,  should have known , my first bike was made like  that , a 1972 Honda CT70 Mini Trail , I had some fun with that one ---

 

I remember using the cover of  a pack of paper matches as a feeler gauge to set the points on anything with points ----

 

I had a Bronco with a Mallory dual point distributor , double trouble , till I figured out it would run with one set of points 

I thought the dual point distributor had two rotor cams so the points would operate better at ultra high RPM's so the points controlled four cylinders each.?

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