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triharder

88 TRX350D and I'm in love

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12 hours ago, Goober said:

lus new copper gaskets.

I bought and recieved new copper gaskets for the header.  If anybody is sure the old ones are in the head I'll figure out how to get them out for room for the new ones.  

I wasn't sure if they were still there (i believe they are)  and does anybody think pulling the nut frozen on the stud worth removing? or just install as a bolt effectively now?

 

I'm suspect of my tailpipe. Might need to redo that with primer and paint and only do two of the 3 steps for curing the paint.

 

I was going to adjust the valves before cam chain and then again verify after.  But i can wait till the end.

 

I guess leakdown test will prove whether the heads coming off or if my compression tester is off (i'm suspect of it). 

Also will shake out the rings or valves for where my issue. With the header off i should be able to feel air at the exhaust if those valves are carbon build up or if nothing present there then the intake (i haven't removed the carb as the previous owner already cleaned that up.

 

Thanks again for any help people are willing to provide.

 

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Baxk at it tonight.

Compression still low 125 psi tonight.

Tried to leak test but its not being helpful.

Had a buddy help hold the crank.

 

Leaking 5 psi less than my gauge and i can hear air.  Can.t quite locate it.

At 90 psi it was leaking intake and exhaust.  My valve lash checjed out loose so perhaps carbon on valves.

 

Heads coming off.  No leakage at crank vent,  and if you dont hold on at 50 psi the piston will rotate.  Thinking rings are fine?  

Guess i.ll know more one head is off.

 

So.

Gasket kit recommendation?

And viton valve seals any good?

 

Vlv cover was removed tonight.

Tomorrow clutch cover and start at cam chain.

This weekend head cleaning and lapping.

 

Still not sure where i.m hearing leakage at head wven at 5 psi,  nothing at vent and sounds almost like head gasket.

 

We held it for 5 minutes at 90,  checked to make sure rockers were loose and still had play.

 

Thing runs great,  or at least did before i touched it.

 

More to come

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On 6/13/2022 at 8:23 AM, shadetree said:

on that lower steering bearing, remove the lower bearing bracket, it will be easier to get the bearing out to replace it..if you can locate a new one ?.

Here’s what i got.👍🏻

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More progress and my kick sharter shaft bearing is crunchy.

 

Looks like cylinder needs a bore to clear some defects.  Nothing serious but she's old.

 

I lapped the valves but probably need to cut the seats.

 

Off to the local machine shop.  Just need to verify turn around times, would like this outta my garage before fall.

 

Jug and piston are off i.ll snap some more images.

 

 

 

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Following up. 

Motor Shop reviewed the measurments on the cylinder and we decided to overbore the cylinder and install a new piston etc. 

Got her back together.  

Got her tight and running.  I'll post some pictures when i get a chance.  Busy week at work.

 

Next up about 20 minutes left in my 1 hour heat run.  I'll swap the fluids, renew the rear diff fluid, plug, air filter, oil and oil filter.  

Then she'll be good to go.

 

Still need to evaluate the fuel gage.  Currently she's dead (funny it was flashing/working when i had the ground off for the gas pump).  

 

My 07 VFR800 let me stranded on the way to work tonight so i'm frustrated with honda tonight.   More Stator/Reg/REf issues.  started it and she won't make 14.1 volts at the battery so i should have left it home,  but 3.5 miles later she cooked the a fuse and i had to call the wife.  Ended up about 30 minutes late for work too.  

But, glad to have the TRX back together and running well.

 

(interesting side not my compression is till at 135 psi,  i think my gage is junk and ordered a new one via amazon),  with a groomed up head, new parts and now broke in the only thing left is my broken gage.  machine starts well and runs well so i don't think the 135 psi is a good measurement)

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Back with some questions.

 

Bikes together ran it for 4 hours today about 50 miles,  from power lines to dirt roads to san pit and back.  Full throttle runs and slow going enough the fan kicked on.

 

Runs great with three outstanding issues

New parts.

Cam chain, ring and piston,  valve seals and new engine oil. New plug, new air filter, diff filter,  

 

Shadetree any advice would be appreciated.

 

Issue 1)  won.t crank on starter when hot.  Will start if it catches immediately when hot but it it cranks more than once and the starter won.t crank it and slowly stops trying.  Will start with kicker no problem.

Battery is less than a year, charges up fine and shows full when the quad won.t turn over.  Bike runs fine if you kick it.

1.  Starter is original wires are clean as of yesterday and tight.  But machine did sit outside for 10-15 years.  It did not get better or change when i cleaned the starter terminals.

2.  Battery works fine on other machine and tests fine under load test.

 

Let it sit for 20 minutes catches and runs like nothing happened.

 

Thinking i need a new starter?  Or a brush kit? Thoughts.

 

Issue 2:  

Bike starts when cold and revs up then after 5-7 seconds idle settles low,  sometimes stalls (mimics a fuel injection system)  this is with no choke,  bike doesn.t respond to choke well unless very 1st start stine cold and you need to rurn it iff quickly..  If i ride it and it gets hot it will idle quick but if you give 5-7 seconds it drops.  A little scary when you need to turn around as it moves when you expect it not too.

Cable verified free, carb recently cleaned,  previous owner rebuilt but did not change needle and i don.t know what carb kit he used.

I.ll buy a shindy kit and install this week with a new needle.

Fuel pump sounds awful but keeps up just fine.  New fuel filter on order.

Doesn.t respond well idle adjust.  Will idle up but won.t stay at higher idle if that makes sense.

 

I did not adjust fuel air screw but have tool now.  

 

Anything come to mind on low idle.  Presents like a vacuum leak but it doesn.t hang up.  I greased and tightened carb boots and boot to cylinder has a new oring.

 

Think a needle would do that?

 

3rd outstanding issue.

Front end chatter. 

I ran new front hypoid oil and rolling out of garage heard the front diff.

So i changed synethic hypoid for dino with friction modifier.  That didn.t work at all. Even pushing straight it chattered and was angry.

So back to amsoil syn with addition friction modifer.  98% of the time no noise or chatter.  Then a hard turn or backing up or something she'll chatter.

 

Its not worrysome enough to think it will fail,  is it worth pulling and replacing clutch plates?

If its not consistent i don.t think its cv joints?  

 

Thoughts?

 

If you accept its 35 years old and quirky its fine.  But i want 35 years and feel like new.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, triharder said:

Back with some questions.

 

Bikes together ran it for 4 hours today about 50 miles,  from power lines to dirt roads to san pit and back.  Full throttle runs and slow going enough the fan kicked on.

 

Runs great with three outstanding issues

New parts.

Cam chain, ring and piston,  valve seals and new engine oil. New plug, new air filter, diff filter,  

 

Shadetree any advice would be appreciated.

 

Issue 1)  won.t crank on starter when hot.  Will start if it catches immediately when hot but it it cranks more than once and the starter won.t crank it and slowly stops trying.  Will start with kicker no problem.

Battery is less than a year, charges up fine and shows full when the quad won.t turn over.  Bike runs fine if you kick it.

1.  Starter is original wires are clean as of yesterday and tight.  But machine did sit outside for 10-15 years.  It did not get better or change when i cleaned the starter terminals.

2.  Battery works fine on other machine and tests fine under load test.

 

Let it sit for 20 minutes catches and runs like nothing happened.

 

Thinking i need a new starter?  Or a brush kit? Thoughts.

 

Issue 2:  

Bike starts when cold and revs up then after 5-7 seconds idle settles low,  sometimes stalls (mimics a fuel injection system)  this is with no choke,  bike doesn.t respond to choke well unless very 1st start stine cold and you need to rurn it iff quickly..  If i ride it and it gets hot it will idle quick but if you give 5-7 seconds it drops.  A little scary when you need to turn around as it moves when you expect it not too.

Cable verified free, carb recently cleaned,  previous owner rebuilt but did not change needle and i don.t know what carb kit he used.

I.ll buy a shindy kit and install this week with a new needle.

Fuel pump sounds awful but keeps up just fine.  New fuel filter on order.

Doesn.t respond well idle adjust.  Will idle up but won.t stay at higher idle if that makes sense.

 

I did not adjust fuel air screw but have tool now.  

 

Anything come to mind on low idle.  Presents like a vacuum leak but it doesn.t hang up.  I greased and tightened carb boots and boot to cylinder has a new oring.

 

Think a needle would do that?

 

3rd outstanding issue.

Front end chatter. 

I ran new front hypoid oil and rolling out of garage heard the front diff.

So i changed synethic hypoid for dino with friction modifier.  That didn.t work at all. Even pushing straight it chattered and was angry.

So back to amsoil syn with addition friction modifer.  98% of the time no noise or chatter.  Then a hard turn or backing up or something she'll chatter.

 

Its not worrysome enough to think it will fail,  is it worth pulling and replacing clutch plates?

If its not consistent i don.t think its cv joints?  

 

Thoughts?

 

If you accept its 35 years old and quirky its fine.  But i want 35 years and feel like new.

 

 

issue 1: starter brushes are worn out, buy a new starter from D&B electrical. issue 2: rebuild the carb with a shindy carb kit, and replace the choke valve. issue 3: bad cv joints, you can not replace with new, and there is NO after market cv joints around, DO NOT BELIEVE ANYTHING YOU READ ON EBAY OR AMAZON...THEY DO NOT MAKE THEM !!.

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new starter on order.

New shindy carb kit on order.

i'll buy new choke parts if the new carb kit doesn't solve my issues.

 

I guess i'll be riding it with the front CVs as is.  And i won't worry about front diff clutch plates?

 

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Old starter took a toll on the brushs and the new "Made in Taiwan" DBelectronics starter installed.  

bike turns over way faster now.

 

I tried to tackle the fuel filter before i do the carb but forgot to drain the fuel tank or shut off the petcock.  Garage now stinks of gasoline.  Will finish that up and the carb this weekend.

 

But, choke worked fine yesterday in the 60 degree temps were in now.  I might not bother replacing that piston.  

 

machine still idles fast then after a five to 10 second count the idle drops.   I'm going to rebuild carb and then re-check the valves.

 

I was gifted some CV joints that read Moose racing on them?  P/N from dennis Kirk checks out?   Shadetree are you saying these aren't usable?  

 

Let me know. I'll try to post some more pictures when i can.  

 

 

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Replaced fuel filter, rebuilt carb, synch slide to butterfly and set air fuel.  Only issue i found was spring in air fuel missing the washer that acts like a spring seat and butterfly to needle synch was off.

 

New choke piston came i. But it was shorter than existing,  so i reused existing and choke is working good now.

 

Also adjusted valves one exhaust was at .004 instead of  .003.

 

Last issue.

Something is knocking in the bottom end.  I think its bottom?  Tried to pinpoint with screw driver to ear. You can feel it but i can.t pinpoint it yet.

 

Are there any bearings that would cause a knock/hammering sound?

 

I can take a video.  But difficult to diagnose video..

 

Increases with rpm.  Should i buy a new tensioner for the cam chain.  Not likely issue as the chain is new.

 

Have about 5 aolid hours on machine.

Noise hasn.t changed.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Okay per stethoscope the noise is loudest if you touch the cap on the rotor.

Interesting.

 

If you touch the bottom end of the motor on the throttle side i get nothing.

Or front.

Top end you can hear the chain but no knocking.

 

So. 

Is this a bad crankbearing on the rotor side or a typical trx350d noise?

 

Shadetree any advice.  Wish i could hook the stethoscope up to the phone. 

 

Thanks for any help you guys can give.

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, triharder said:

Okay per stethoscope the noise is loudest if you touch the cap on the rotor.

Interesting.

 

If you touch the bottom end of the motor on the throttle side i get nothing.

Or front.

Top end you can hear the chain but no knocking.

 

So. 

Is this a bad crankbearing on the rotor side or a typical trx350d noise?

 

Shadetree any advice.  Wish i could hook the stethoscope up to the phone. 

 

Thanks for any help you guys can give.

 

 

 

 

could be a bad crank ?!. cam chain needs to be replaced, but you can check this b4 you buy one, i only use D.I.D. cam chains, i buy them from ebay, if it does not show a yellow and black box ?, ITS NOT A REAL D.I.D. CAM CHAIN !. as for those cv joint axles ?, once again..NO ONE MAKES THEM...THAT ARE THE CORRECT FIT ?..a lot of sellers '' claim '' they fit ?, but i've been down this road many yrs ago..bought some from ebay, seller '' claimed '' they would fit ?..well, low and behold, THEY DID NOT CLEAR THE INSIDE OF EACH KNUCKLE SIDE !!!. and i tried to explain to the seller this, pics and all, then i got my money back, and they never took the ad down !!. last time..NO ONE MAKES THEM, THAT WILL FIT CORRECTLY!..

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I bought a did from  g+h direct.  So thats already covered. And installed.

You still think its worth replacing again even if the tension checks out via the tensioner?

 

Everything fit up and matched what i removed in my side by side check?

 

Noise is oppsite side on the motor,  shifter side.

 

There is a bearing behind flywheel. its worth replacing that 1st?

Have you ever had on go bad?  

 

Thanks i do appreciate the help.

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1 hour ago, triharder said:

I bought a did from  g+h direct.  So thats already covered. And installed.

You still think its worth replacing again even if the tension checks out via the tensioner?

 

Everything fit up and matched what i removed in my side by side check?

 

Noise is oppsite side on the motor,  shifter side.

 

There is a bearing behind flywheel. its worth replacing that 1st?

Have you ever had on go bad?  

 

Thanks i do appreciate the help.

one way starter bearing...they do go bad, and i do not think honda sells it any more ?, if the chain is new ?, then dont worry about it.

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do you think its worth running 20-50 weight oil before winter to seeif that changes my noise?  Might pinpoint me to the crank bearings?

 

Or is it worth pulling the flywheel and investigating the crank by rolling over the motor to see if i can pick up on the noise this way? 

 

Obviously, the easy answer here is just run it until something breaks or doesn't.  But i'm probably more interested in tinkering than actually riding.

 

Flywheel puller and gaskets are on there way.  

 

Anything i need to be aware of like the shift linkage on the clutch side?  

 

Also, caltric sells these one way bearings listed under hondas part number.  Is it worth the effort to see if one of those bearings form, fit and functions the same?  Might change the noise and then I know origin?

 

Thanks again,  

Just realized how deep i need to get into my 86 TRX200SX with it on the lift yesterday.  All four wheels feel like the bolts are loose at the hub but its tight.  

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2 hours ago, triharder said:

do you think its worth running 20-50 weight oil before winter to seeif that changes my noise?  Might pinpoint me to the crank bearings?

 

Or is it worth pulling the flywheel and investigating the crank by rolling over the motor to see if i can pick up on the noise this way? 

 

Obviously, the easy answer here is just run it until something breaks or doesn't.  But i'm probably more interested in tinkering than actually riding.

 

Flywheel puller and gaskets are on there way.  

 

Anything i need to be aware of like the shift linkage on the clutch side?  

 

Also, caltric sells these one way bearings listed under hondas part number.  Is it worth the effort to see if one of those bearings form, fit and functions the same?  Might change the noise and then I know origin?

 

Thanks again,  

Just realized how deep i need to get into my 86 TRX200SX with it on the lift yesterday.  All four wheels feel like the bolts are loose at the hub but its tight.  

 

I wouldn't use any Caltric bearings.  Use Shindy if possible, or Koyo if you can determine the bearing cross reference.

 

I've never seen bad crank support bearings in a Honda ATV, and I'll pulled apart some pretty trashed engines.    Normally if the crank goes south it's the small end of the connecting rod, but that is more common on the newer front to back engines that don't oil as well as the older style sideways engines (I'm no expert, just regurgitating what Vince/ Mr Crankshaft told me).  You can also have the bottom rod bearing on the actual crank go bad, which you can tell if you have up/down play in the connecting rod with the top end removed.

 

OCD can drive you nuts on these.  Were in mine I'd just run it before I'd tear into the engine chasing down a noise.

 

I tore down my 06 Foreman 3-4 times chasing a tick.  Never did figure out what it was, but I finally just decided to live with it and it was fine for about 10 years until I pulled it (even after sinking it a couple of times)..  Only reason I pulled it is because I picked up a gear reduction and put it in my extra engine and just swapped engines out for convenience sake.

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, triharder said:

do you think its worth running 20-50 weight oil before winter to seeif that changes my noise?  Might pinpoint me to the crank bearings?

 

Or is it worth pulling the flywheel and investigating the crank by rolling over the motor to see if i can pick up on the noise this way? 

 

Obviously, the easy answer here is just run it until something breaks or doesn't.  But i'm probably more interested in tinkering than actually riding.

 

Flywheel puller and gaskets are on there way.  

 

Anything i need to be aware of like the shift linkage on the clutch side?  

 

Also, caltric sells these one way bearings listed under hondas part number.  Is it worth the effort to see if one of those bearings form, fit and functions the same?  Might change the noise and then I know origin?

 

Thanks again,  

Just realized how deep i need to get into my 86 TRX200SX with it on the lift yesterday.  All four wheels feel like the bolts are loose at the hub but its tight.  

no, engine oil will not solve the noise. if it is the crank ?, crank bearings ?, oil will not magically make it stop.

pulling the flywheel wont help you any way, shape or fashion to see if the crank is bad ?

run it until it breaks.

if you pull the left side down ?, DO NOT LET THE SHIFTING SHAFT PULL OUT AT ALL !!.

seeing how this one-way bearing is no longer being sold by honda ?, yes..you can try using caltric products, i have in the past..they are decent for the price.

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Okay, if the experts are telling me to stand down i'll run it as is.

 

I was worried the top end (which i worked) was the issue.  But as long as its not what i have physically touched i won't go any further.  

 

(I was just wondering if with the flywheel off, I could stethscope the outside of the crank bearing and turn over by hand and hear grumbling).   

 

I will stand down.  

I'll start a new build on the TRX200SX and possibly my other 88 2x4 TRX300.   Both have been used and could use some love. 

 

Just need to finish the plow and winch installation on this one.

 

From my limited experience Caltric fills a void where OEM dropped off.  But, they don't necessarily meet OEM quality.

 

Also one-way bearings are nothing new.  Should we be seeing if companies in the US want to source us some bearings (I realize the Honda's seem to all have them?) 

Might just be a matter of giving them a size and seeing what they can do.

 

just a thought.

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I've used Caltric TRX300FW ring and pinion gears.  They seemed ok.  The bearings that came with them are garbage though.

 

I try to use OEM  (which are usually Koyo) or Shindy (made in Japan) if available for important bearings that aren't easy to replace.

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Triharder,

How are you liking the Badlands winch?  I am thinking about the same one.  For the price, I can break it, buy 3 more before I buy one warns winch (which I am a fan of but cost is hard for me right now).  

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Its worked great over one winter of plowing.  I wouldn.t go 3500 nxt time too overkill for the 3500.

I.d go 2500 a synethic rope as well.  Safer.

 

Hope that helps

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