2000 TRX400 FW FOREMAN TRANSMISSION SHIFTING

[Popa Fry 62]

well said  i must admit I have used aftermarket and got by with it  but  OEM is best and with a place to get good used parts it is a must.   I will give everyone an update after i have ridden this for a while to make sure everything is working...  on another note i did double check all grounds so i should be good to go . and yes i would advise OEM and maybe i learned something along the way that i might be able to share 

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT TOOK THE TIME TO HELP ME

[Popa Fry 62]

well said  i must admit I have used aftermarket and got by with it  but  OEM is best and with a place to get good used parts it is a must.   I will give everyone an update after i have ridden this for a while to make sure everything is working...  on another note i did double check all grounds so i should be good to go . and yes i would advise OEM and maybe i learned something along the way that i might be able to share 

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT TOOK THE TIME TO HELP ME

[Popa Fry 62]

MEN  !!!  can YOU BELIEVE THIS .... Everything is running great  if i accelerate  and let off and it does   NOT  kill my CDi  (YA !!!)  put it in gear  idles smooth  ( still need to get carb adjusted right )  but now I am back to the original Question that started this tread  Clutch problem  I Have tried adjusting it  to increase and decrease ( not sure what that actually does ) but now i  am having trouble ... I can get it into gear while running  ( both  forward all gears  ) and reverse  but i cannot get it out of  reverse or  first gear without turning off the engine  wow I thought i was ready TO RIDE LOL as always all help APPRECIATED> 

[retro 4,048]

25 minutes ago, Popa Fry said:

I can get it into gear while running  ( both  forward all gears  ) and reverse  but i cannot get it out of  reverse or  first gear without turning off the engine 

 

It sounds like the idle speed is too high. Before you get into adjusting that though, with the key off, adjust the change clutch by loosening the locknut. Then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until you feel the screw bumping up against resistance. Turn the screw back and forth a few times so you'll get a feel for the place where all of the slack under the screw is gone and you first begin to feel resistance to turning - the screw feels like it wants to stop turning easily.... from that point where resistance is first felt turn the screw 1/4 turn in the opposite direction (clockwise). Hold the screw still in that position 1/4 turn out while you tighten the locknut down. Don't allow the screw to turn at all while tightening the locknut. See the image...

 

 

Next check that there is slack in the throttle cable by depressing the throttle lever. You should be able to move the throttle lever freely 1/8" to 5/16" from the relaxed idle position to the point where the cable slack is taken up and the throttle cable begins to move. Hold onto the cable jacket near the throttle to get a feel for it.... make sure that there is free play in the lever. If not, adjust the cable shorter (or longer if there is too much slack) using the adjuster screw. See the image....

 

 

A choke plunger that does not return to the closed position completely can cause a higher than normal idle speed as well... Sometimes the choke cable gets hung up, moves stiffly, or for whatever reason (poor cable routing, rusty, pinched or kinked cable etc.) does not allow the choke plunger to close completely. Operate the choke and make sure that the cable is moving freely and that the cable has a slight amount of slack when the lever is fully released. See the image...

 

 

Finally, start the motor up and adjust the idle speed knob that extends below the carburetor until the idle speed is about 1400 RPM. You can guess at the idle speed if you don't have a tachometer handy.... just slow the motor down by loosening the knob until it runs slowly enough that the centrifugal clutch is fully disengaged and you can shift in and out of gears without the ATV lurching hard. Excessive idle speed causes the centrifugal clutch to be engaged that's usually why it becomes difficult to shift. See the image...

 

 

Let us know how it goes in case there is a problem with the centrifugal clutch.

[retro 4,048]

You may as well check the idle mixture enrichment too while you're adjusting the idle speed. See the image.

 

Have fun!

[Popa Fry 62]

The manuals adjustment for clutch is where i started   after rebuild..  1/4 turn .. That said I will adjust it to that setting again  as you suggest.... I have taken the slack out of the throttle cable per spec...

the choke has a lot of movement that doesn't appear to make any change.... I don't see any adjustment .. when starting  if i move it completely over it does increase idle some  ... moved completely to right appears correct  (except for the slack) 

 i have tried adjusting the throttle stop screw but it will be one idle speed and then it will change  sometimes after throttle up thought it might be the throttle cable ??  this unit did not have any of these idle problems before i rebuilt it as i Rember it belonged to a friend. 

When i rebuilt  the carb  the 2 1/4 turn is what I set .  Thank you for your quick reply very appreciated  .... i KNOW THS I A GOOD MACHINE 

 

[retro 4,048]

1 hour ago, Popa Fry said:

When i rebuilt  the carb  the 2 1/4 turn is what I set

 

Try the pilot screw adjustment explained in the post above. Let us know if the idle speed does not stabilize after that....

[Popa Fry 62]

I WILL TRY  LARGE HANDS  SMALL SPACE  I MIGHT NEED TO INVEST IN A RIGHT ANGLE SCREW DRIVER....  LOL

[Popa Fry 62]

Men  have followed Retro's professional  advise as best i can : Case in Point  I did go back and adjust the clutch to the 1/4 turn spec... I also ATTEMPTED to adjust my carb !!!  I couldn't fit my hands under the carb so i eventually (after shortening a screwdriver and many cuts  I took off the breather i know it is best to leave it on BUT !!!  I am a Clutz I suppose even after removing breather i was unable to contort myself in a position to adjust the carb  I had a couple of times i was getting it only to ultimately fail  SOOOOOO  I removed the carb turned that sucker on its side and made sure it was set at 2 1/2 turns from bottom and put it back on  put back filter and box  and cranked that baby up ... after it started i tried to adjust the throttle stop and did slow it down  but it will run smooth then sputter once  then  run sputter and die (does start right back up) I don't think it ts a spark problem i am convinced it is in the carb  (any comments ???   So i took it for a ride the motor starts  as  good or better than a new one  .....now it does go into gear BUT when it does it lurches forward or backward not as much....  does better after it has run for a few minutes (( I did replace the  Centrifugal clutch )  maybe it just needs some time to set in ??? 

 

ANY AND ALL COMMENTS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED !!!  i  I am at a point where i think i need to just get it and put some hours and let everything settle in I am weary from trying to get it better...Probably just tired...THANK YOU ALL !!

[retro 4,048]

16 hours ago, Popa Fry said:

it will run smooth then sputter once  then  run sputter and die (does start right back up) I don't think it ts a spark problem i am convinced it is in the carb  (any comments ???   So i took it for a ride the motor starts  as  good

 

It sounds like either you have a leaky carb boot or the carb may be a china knockoff? Check the brand name of the carb, it should be spelled Keihin - and find the model code stamped on the carb. It should be a VE92A. China carbs don't work on Honda ATVs,

 

 

 

I gotta run off for the day... be back tomorrow.

[Popa Fry 62]

the carb is OEM carb   your  picture states you are from  Ojibwe  Gichigami   after a little research  am  i correct you have an Indian heritage and live in Canada . also what time zone are you in.. You have been very supportive and helpful and I want you to know how much it helps ((( I hate to admit it now  but the new centrifugal clutch was from Amazon  I now know never - never use any thing on your ATV that is not  OEM or at least something non important like luggage rack  LOL

I was able to remove and replace the Stator without removing the engine maybe hoping i can do the same for the centrifugal clutch.  it is a thought ....and maybe  get another carb kit (can you recommend one) and go through it again. and double check the boot from the motor to the carb and if i remember there is an  ' O ' ring on that flange to the motor.. one last thing (for today) when i was cleaning the carb i removed the air cut valve without knowing what it was or did  was going to blow it out an  (oh  **** ) something blew of ....so i bought a old used  carb from e-bay and put it on the carb  could this be part f the problem  ???  I know i am so needy maybe someday  I will be able to help someone else I have  learned a LOT from all of you men. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I have this small wheel that will hold a 1/4 drive bit , I put the slotted screwdriver bit in it and use it to adjust the carb , the engine has to be cold or it will burn my hands up , it is very hard to do ---- or unclamp the carb , rollit over , adjusted it and clamp it back 

 

Are you an FBI profiler or a wannabe ??  Sometimes ,  I think I should have been , or maybe just a gumshoe'd detective , LOL !!!  ----   

 

You can check for air leak at the carb boot , with some starting fluid by spraying it around as the engine is running , if the rpm jumps up m you have a leak 

 

 

I got to go , hold my thought LOL ----   Clutch adjust 

 

 

 

 

[Popa Fry 62]

NO  on the FBI thing  i was just curious about a man that was being very kind to me with all his expert advise  Everyone here is very knowledgeable and have given me very sound advise as i am on this learning curve .....

that ....and i had never heard of Ojibwe Gichigami    this is a new language and maybe he lives beside a Lake  IDK... i did have one of those a long ago but could not find it  .thanks for the starter fluid idea that should  help me eliminate the boot.

[Popa Fry 62]

Anyone a comment can i replace the centrical clutch without removing the motor ??????

[jeepwm69 7,601]

You can. Stay on the four wheeler up on the bike rack. It will sit standing straight up that way. Remove the fan and front cover and you can get the clutch off that way. It’s tight but does not require pulling the motor.

 

You might need to unbolt the front diff and pull it forward and remove the front drive shaft before hand. I know on the 500s you don’t have to do that but I think you do on the 450 and 400

[retro 4,048]

9 hours ago, Popa Fry said:

your  picture states you are from  Ojibwe  Gichigami   after a little research  am  i correct you have an Indian heritage and live in Canada . also what time zone are you in.

 

Good question... I am mostly Irish heritage, but I live near the Ojibwe tribe and a few miles from the big lake the Ojibwe call Gichigami... aka Lake Superior. I'm in the eastern time zone, barely... the next county south is in the central time zone.

 

9 hours ago, Popa Fry said:

and maybe  get another carb kit (can you recommend one) and go through it again. and double check the boot from the motor to the carb and if i remember there is an  ' O ' ring on that flange to the motor.. one last thing (for today) when i was cleaning the carb i removed the air cut valve without knowing what it was or did  was going to blow it out an  (oh  **** ) something blew of ....so i bought a old used  carb from e-bay and put it on the carb  could this be part f the problem  ??? 

 

The best aftermarket carb kit is Shindy. You can usually find them for sale on eBay and other parts sites on the 'net. None of the others work because you guessed it - the others are all made in chintzy china.

 

Something blew away eh...? Maybe it was the air jet that has two o-rings on it? If the air jet is missing or has bad o-rings on it there will be a vacuum leak, which could cause the motor to run poorly. The air jet fits in a hole in the carb casting to mate the cutoff valve to the carb. There is a vacuum hose that operates that valve. See the images...

 

 

 

 

[retro 4,048]

7 hours ago, Popa Fry said:

Everyone here is very knowledgeable and have given me very sound advise as i am on this learning curve .....

 

You fell off of any learning curve ya might have been on when ya learned all about china knockoffs.  You're expert now.

[Popa Fry 62]

not expert but more experienced  !!! for sure  .....i put another cut off valve from an OEM carb i got on e-bay  but  I have a new valve  now  time to install  it

[Popa Fry 62]

if there were a way I would buy beer all around for those interested   and   Ice Tea  or cola for everyone else ..

[retro 4,048]

If you ever make it to upper Michigan look me up and I'll buy the rounds at one of my favorite watering holes.... My buddy and I spent our afternoon today at Shute's, a historic all original 1890's saloon in the old copper mining village of Calumet - in it's heyday the wealthiest town in the state (yes, wealthier than Detroit!!!) by far. Shute's 30 foot long solid mahogany bar, it's interior woodworking, fixtures, stained glass bar canopy and frosted glass bathrooms doors & walls are antique saloon parts valued at over $250,000 today. It's a cool old bar for sure in one of friendliest towns I ever been in... The upstairs 2nd floor back in the day was a brothel and the owner bootlegged all through the prohibition years - lots of history and crazy stories.... Pick Axe on tap on a hot day.... that's UP livin' it up 'round here. 

 

 

 

[Popa Fry 62]

Looks inviting  and the Same to you my friend  if you ( or anyone else on here ) finds themselves in or around  Lexington Kentucky let me know I don't have anything that Fancy but the Beer is cold . I live about  20 min. from Lexington.

 

[Popa Fry 62]

[ Let me tell you a story about a man named Jed ]    most of you remember...lol  That the way I feel but the story is PoPa Fry  ok so with the full expert advice and sound information I decided to replace the centrifugal clutch.

 on a 2000 trx400fw foreman it goes like this.  I did stand the atv on its rear tires and rack  ( I tethered it to the chain hoist for safety sake..  disconnected the battery removed the gas tank and top body panels and drained the oil removing the gas tank was a good idea on several levels  did not want to  get gas all over the shop... and gained access to the front of the engine.  did not have to do anything wither the fan  i did have to loosen the front differential so i could get the front drive shaft and cover out of the way . once the bolts were removed the cover came off without to much maneuvering .  i am sure some people can do this more quickly than myself  it took me the better part of today NOW I start it up (still have carb problems ( idel )  put it in reverse and back out of the garage  hard to get out of reverse ..Long story short  it is some better bet for the most part i still have a jump when i put it into gear.  it changes gear as long as you are moving but not always in and out of  first and  Reverse .  i will let you know more later now i need rest I AM AN OLD MAN   LOL

[shadetree 5,882]

1 hour ago, Popa Fry said:

[ Let me tell you a story about a man named Jed ]    most of you remember...lol  That the way I feel but the story is PoPa Fry  ok so with the full expert advice and sound information I decided to replace the centrifugal clutch.

 on a 2000 trx400fw foreman it goes like this.  I did stand the atv on its rear tires and rack  ( I tethered it to the chain hoist for safety sake..  disconnected the battery removed the gas tank and top body panels and drained the oil removing the gas tank was a good idea on several levels  did not want to  get gas all over the shop... and gained access to the front of the engine.  did not have to do anything wither the fan  i did have to loosen the front differential so i could get the front drive shaft and cover out of the way . once the bolts were removed the cover came off without to much maneuvering .  i am sure some people can do this more quickly than myself  it took me the better part of today NOW I start it up (still have carb problems ( idel )  put it in reverse and back out of the garage  hard to get out of reverse ..Long story short  it is some better bet for the most part i still have a jump when i put it into gear.  it changes gear as long as you are moving but not always in and out of  first and  Reverse .  i will let you know more later now i need rest I AM AN OLD MAN   LOL

my money say's you do not have the clutch adjusted right ?, or the change clutch friction disk are sticking ?.

[Popa Fry 62]

i have the adjustment to the spec,... i have moved it around a little with no real change ... if it is the change clutch i was just in there today  but did not look at it ...when i overhauled the engine  2 weeks ago the plates were not sticking..

thanks for the info

[retro 4,048]

When you shift from neutral into 1st or reverse, does the idle speed slow down or does the motor idle speed remain the same?