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Jared k

1987 Honda 350d spark-no spark

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So this pic shows the green wire ... it’s not directly to cdi box but in the area..

It looks to go to whatever the third pic is of.. looks like maybe the fuel unit ? 

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F4C50C58-4BA2-43BD-837D-28E2C836CBE9.jpeg

2F6DEF48-9ADA-47A2-A5E7-3211DAF654A6.jpeg

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And just to update... now several hours later long after it is cooled- I have spark again???!!! This is going to drive me insane...

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So with that being said are you still getting the same readings on your coils at this time with spark?

Do you also have spark when you put the old coil back on?

If it was me I would just leave your CDI hanging by the wires and give it a few good taps the next time spark goes out -my money is on the CDI right now until we get a more solid determination somewhere results

 

Edited by AKATV

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So if you have spark -then obviously you’re readings on the coils must be being done improperly

Wouldn’t you say?

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LOL I suppose, however I have my coil disconnected, and I am simply taking a reading by touching both leads of my meter to the two contacts on the coil like the book states? Am I wrong in doing it that way? Either way... I feel like I’m back to square one... I can start it cold, run for a little then zero spark. The only thing that appeared to affect this was when I baked the cdi box, it seemed to run much longer and ran until I developed the no fuel- bad fuel cut relay and pump problem

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1 hour ago, Jared k said:

So this pic shows the green wire ... it’s not directly to cdi box but in the area..

It looks to go to whatever the third pic is of.. looks like maybe the fuel unit ? 

00FCE357-0075-4289-B573-5E02AE8D147E.jpeg

F4C50C58-4BA2-43BD-837D-28E2C836CBE9.jpeg

2F6DEF48-9ADA-47A2-A5E7-3211DAF654A6.jpeg

Yes that’s the fuel meter

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If my connections and wires all look decent- do you think it could still be cdi box? Need baked again? Going bad ?

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1 hour ago, Jared k said:
Check or post a pic of your meter settings.

 

read the primary (.1 to .2 ohms at 68F—if your temperature is very high, you might get a very low reading), and read the secondary with (7.5 to 10.8 KOhm at 68F) and without the spark plug cap (3.7 to 4.5 KOhm at 68F)

 

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2DD3C82B-5BB0-496A-B895-FA8D4908C4BE.jpeg

272D5CA6-4CBB-4B34-9014-3860ED8FEE7D.jpeg

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CDI are available. But maybe you could buy one and do proper fixes on the bare wires while you’re waiting on parts.

 

 

8876CA52-E8F1-4C6C-95D2-BEA2E8D4DB11.jpeg

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Well it has been a while since I got back to tell the status… I purchased a brand new OEM Honda CDI box for about $146 which was really annoying however, this is after trying to Amazon special CDI boxes amongst other aftermarket parts… OEM is the ticket! I put the new CDI box on and the four wheeler has been running for hours whereas before it would shut off without question after about 10 minutes so I am confident to say my problem is solved. So if anybody reading these posts do not buy cheap aftermarket 

Parts, it is not worth the headache… IOEM thank you guys for all your help

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Glad to hear you got it running!

Those Chinesium parts generally always cause more headaches than repairs

Sometimes it’s difficult to bite the bullet and pay for new OEM parts, but you get what you pay for…as they say..

You can always pick up quality used OEM parts off of eBay for a good price too

 

Time to get out and ride now!

 

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Thanks for reporting back with your fix!  It will likely help someone out in the future with a similar problem.

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