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SailRedemption

Hello from se Louisiana

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10 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

I use flat black engine paint.  Seems to hold up better than grill paint.

but the cost diff ?..lol. myself too, i use bxbxq paint rated at 1200f, it seems to hold up pretty good for me.

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I've tested  krylon and rust-o-leum my take is rust-o-leum ultra is kind of a satin finish, not flat, but holds up very well, IMO rust-o-leum is better then krylon. 

 

Edit: I've heard good things about high temp engine block paint but that I've never tried......and get this... Back a few years ago i did a night test on the ultra.... Not on my bikes but on my lawn mower, i had shot it, and let it cure for a week (I'd say) went out started the mower hiked the engine rpm up... Till i could see the exhaust start glowing slightly ...... Let it cool off went back the next morning and you could not tell it had even been running, and it's still coated with the original coat to this very day. 

Edited by _Wilson_™

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Yea this is the flat black grill paint. Says it's good to 1200° so we'll see. It's better than it was before and should help keep the rust away a little longer. It may not last long right at the exhaust manifold since it gets the hottest there.

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10 hours ago, LoganLemx said:

Welcome, Good looking machine what are your plans for it?

Thanks, Just restore and fix what needs to be fixed best I can and enjoy it. I have other things I'd like to work on and this was supposedly the easiest to get done first. 

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4 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

They have rust-o-leum high hest grill paint in flat black ?  Well anyways good deal, thanks for the update.

Apparently so, my dad had it so that's what I'm using.

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2 hours ago, SailRedemption said:

Apparently so, my dad had it so that's what I'm using.

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that is the very same stuff i use, works well.

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A little update. I had had another spot on the exhaust heat shield that rusted away where a bolt was and needed to be built back up. Brazed a small square of sheet metal where the hole was, sanded it then painted the remaining heat shields with high heat paint. Let that dry for a day and installed everything back on the exhaust pipe. I do need to get one more bolt that I had to cut off.

 

At some point my ignition assembly fell apart so I ordered another one after an attempt to epoxy the two together. There really isn't much to adhere to and you can sleeve it because it has to go through the hole in the dash cover.

 

Finally decided to knock out the rusted rims. They were in definite need of love. Started off wirewheeling them, then sanded, then sprayed them with ospho to convert any rust I couldn't get to. Let that sit for a few days and spot primed them where there was bear metal. Gave them a quick light sand and wipe/blow down before paint. Painted them with VHT Wheel paint in satin black. Did 3 nice coats with 2 cans. They came out nice. They are currently baking in the attic above the garage because I needed room and I figured the heat would help them dry while I went to work offshore.

 

All of my parts are in from Rocky mountain so it will be like Christmas when I get home. New speedometer display assembly, sparkplug, new ignition key assembly, shindy carb kit, front CV boots, new valve stems, couple tire spoons, and the air filter housing cover that I was missing. Also my new tires are in. Went with stock size ITP mud lite II tires. So I'm pretty excited to get this hitch over with so I can put the quad back together again. Two things I still need is boot rings(because I didn't think about getting new ones when I ordered the boots) and two LED lights to fit the lower lights(one OEM is Missing and the other is in bad shape).

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Last week I start back on the foreman. Pulled the painted rims from the attic where they were baking/drying while I was at work. I ordered some new bolt in air valves since the olds were dry rotted pretty bad. Mounted the new ITP mud lite IIs to the rims with the new tire iron I got. Mounting them was surprisingly easy. I just lubed up the tire and the rim with some Dawn soap and they popped right on. Then I spray painted the lug nuts black to keep them from rusting more and to look nice on the fresh wheels.

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I ordered new cv boots for the front axles but forgot to order the bands too. So while I was waiting on those I took the front axles out, cleaned the old grease out, and put them to the side. 

 

Rebuilt the carburetor and installed that plus the air filter with a new Uni filter. All I had was K&N filter oil so hopefully the Uni filter police don't hunt me down for that. Come to find out I found my filter box cover so I can send the new one back. Put the tank on and installed some new fuel line and inline filter.

 

Started working on the rear. Pulled the rear brake drum cover off to make sure all was good and free. The pads were brand new and it was for the most part all free and working. I do need a new pedal brake cable because it's in rough shape, I oiled it up and put it on. Painted and cleaned the brake pedal lever and pin. I tried to clean out the drum brake vent nipple but I broke it off. Apparently it's not a itemized part so I'm going to tap it and put in a ⅛" brass nipple there.

 

Reinstalled the the drum cover, pedal, and cables and mounted the rear fender. The fender plastic is showing some uv damage and age so I hit it with a buffer and some 1step compound. It went from dull and scratched to shiney and a little less scratched. Then put on the rear rack and the side and foot mud flaps.

 

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Looks good!  For that rear brake pedal, I take them off, drill a hole and tap it for a grease zerk.  Then you can grease it in the future without having to remove it.

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8 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Looks good!  For that rear brake pedal, I take them off, drill a hole and tap it for a grease zerk.  Then you can grease it in the future without having to remove it.

Good thinking, I'll try to do that whenever I change the cable. Somehow the two seals were missing on that too so it just has a washer and a nut. May just slide a couple orings on there.

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While I waited for my boot bands to come in I also took off the front brake calipers and painted them with some caliper paint I have had for years. Cleaned up the discs with a wire wheel and dusted the inner parts with some black paint to prevent the rusting on those. Bled all the old brake fluid out and got two new stainless screws for the fluid reservoir since the old ones were in bad shape and I stripped one. 

 

Connected the new AGM battery from Impact Batteries secured all the electric components in the battery compartment as well. I connected the new ignition switch and cable and screwed the dash, headlight, and new screen together in the handle bars. Turn it on and checked the starter button and headlight for function, all working. 

 

I took some advice from here to start and run the engine now before adding more plastics in case I need to get to the engine. Added fuel, primed the carb and she started right up! Hooray! The bike started smoking from under the fuel tank and it smelled chemically so I shut it off thinking it was electrical burning. After further inspection it was just the endrust on the header pipe that was getting hot and smoking. So all was well again.

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Bands came in and I finished the messy job of packing the grease in the new boots and bands. Actually wasn't as hard as I thought they would be. I did remember to make sure the bands were in the right direction so they won't get snagged. Put grease on the shafts and installed the cv axles.

 

Discs and calipers finally sat up long enough for the paint to dry. Installed them but did get a little too trigger happy with the impact on one of the bolts that hold the disc to the hub and sheared the head off. Whoops. Luckily there's 3 more holding it on! 

 

Connected the lower swing arms to the frame and steering bars back to the hubs. Then put the shocks back on for a fully functional front end minus addiing brake fluid and bleeding the brake lines.

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Edited by SailRedemption
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Once I had the front end together and turning as it should I started putting the plastics back on. Had to remember the order of everything since I removed it all a couple months ago. I'm glad I took the time to paint all the bolt heads and brackets, they look much better and should stop the rust for a while. Put the front fender on and hit it with some compound and the buffer to shine it up. Then snapped on the mud flaps and moved on to the rack and bumper. Top rack was a little tough because I think at some point in this foreman's life it hit or pulled something hard and racked it a bit. Finally got all the bolts in and tightened down. Skid plate got mounted too.

 

After all of fenders and hardware was on u mounted the front wheels and tightened all of the lug nuts and lowered the bike stand. Started her up and drove out of the garage.

 

I forgot to take pictures of it all done so these are what I got for now.

 

Few things I need to do is turn the idle down because I can't down shift into neutral without turning off the bike and shifting to first makes the bike jump forward. I turned the idle knob down but something else has the idle staying high. I'm thinking the throttle cable. Another thing is I need to add fluid to the front brakes and bleed them. Last is torque the front hub castle nuts and put a cotter pin in. Oh, and I need to put some lights in the front since the old ones are toast. I found some LED projector lights that I believe will fit just right in there.

 

As of right now she's in the backyard with a new atv cover on to keep the sun and elements off.

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Here's a before and after picture of the difference the compound and buffer did to the plastic. I could have definitely did more with fine sandpaper first then the compound but ain't nobody got time for that. You can still see scratches but the dullness is definitely gone and the shine is pretty good. 

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Well the previous post must have gotten deleted and just the pictures remained.

 

But here's a update of the almost finished foreman. It's a little dirty from going to my sister's camp in Jan. I had to use my street bike's master cylinder because the original failed when I was bleeding the brakes before the camp trip. I ordered a new used unit from a place fishfiles recommended. So I'll install that soon. The rear hand brake cable failed too so I ordered a new one and just need to install it. 

 

I also need to adjust the front alignment because it is super sensitive at speed. I think the wheels are toed in too much. I will also adjust the handlebars because they feel like they are in my lap and is making slow speed hard over turns harder.

 

That's the update for now. 

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Wow , check out that master cylinder !!!  You say that is off your street bike ? That is getting it done 

 

What " place " did you get your new master from ? 

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6 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Wow , check out that master cylinder !!!  You say that is off your street bike ? That is getting it done 

 

What " place " did you get your new master from ? 

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Power sports Nation like you suggested. But yea that master is from a early 2000s CBR 954rr. Got it on ebay in 2013 for my cafe bike build. I needed brakes to go to ride that weekend! Haha! Just had to make sure I didn't break it off!

Edited by SailRedemption
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5 minutes ago, SailRedemption said:

Power sports Nation like you suggested. But yea that master is from a early 2000s CBR 954rr. Got it on ebay in 2013 for my cafe bike build. I needed brakes to go to ride that weekend! Haha! Just had to make sure I didn't break it off!

I got you.  New to you. Lol. When you said “new “, I was like , hmmmm.   Powersports is great.  They use to be super cheap.  But they got smart.   Do you know that the  cheapie eBay master cylinders for the Tao and such will work.  7/8 handle bar and has the same banjo thread 

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