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shadetree

2002 trx450fm ( S )

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Say it was Doubled layered extra thick ?! Too funny! 

 

yep shade you nailed it, the trick is sealed space behind a sealed bearing 

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4 minutes ago, shadetree said:

answer me this, how are you going to get the bread..or whatever you use ?, down under the bearing from the start ?, if there is no room under the bearing, i do not see how you can get anything under it to push this bearing out. this bearing sits down flush inside the case, as in..flat down inside, no space under the bearing. if there was a space under the bearing ?, then yeah..this might work, but seeing how the bearing is all the way down inside the case, i do not see it working..but hey..what do i know ?..i'm just a home school'ed mechanic !..lol.

 

I had the same thinking. I just knew it sounded stupid because there was no room for the bread to get under the bearing. Idk what the science behind it is, but the bread finds a way to smush under the bearing. Once it does. It's nothing but up from there.

Edited by Snow Camo

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1 minute ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Say it was Doubled layered extra thick ?! Too funny! 

 

yep shade you nailed it, the trick is sealed space behind a sealed bearing 

that bearing was not sealed on the bottom side ?, so to me..the bread would just push up through the inner space. that is..if it '' some how '' could get under it to begin with !..lol.

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4 minutes ago, shadetree said:

answer me this, how are you going to get the bread..or whatever you use ?, down under the bearing from the start ?, if there is no room under the bearing, i do not see how you can get anything under it to push this bearing out. this bearing sits down flush inside the case, as in..flat down inside, no space under the bearing. if there was a space under the bearing ?, then yeah..this might work, but seeing how the bearing is all the way down inside the case, i do not see it working..but hey..what do i know ?..i'm just a home school'ed mechanic !..lol.

The biggest concern I have with this method is that the hydraulic effect is great enough to crack that thin aluminum bearing housing before the bearing pushes out. I have used grease.to push the pilot bearing from a flywheel on a car but that is a heavy steel part.

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3 minutes ago, Snow Camo said:

 

I has the same thinking. I just knew it sounded stupid because there was no room for the bread to get under the bearing. Idk what the science behind it is, but the bread finds a way to smush under the bearing. Once it does. It's nothing but up from there.

if you happen to have at least 1/32 under the bearing ?..then yes..that enough room for the bread to get under it. but when you have a open inner bearing ?, it seems to me it wont work.

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1 minute ago, Misterclean said:

The biggest concern I have with this method is that the hydraulic effect is great enough to crack that thin aluminum bearing housing before the bearing pushes out. I have used grease.to push the pilot bearing from a flywheel on a car but that is a heavy steel part.

how and where would you push grease down into an open bearing ?. this does not have a grease zerk ??..lol.

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1 minute ago, shadetree said:

if you happen to have at least 1/32 under the bearing ?..then yes..that enough room for the bread to get under it. but when you have a open inner bearing ?, it seems to me it wont work.

No space flush fit

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2 minutes ago, Snow Camo said:

No space flush fit

bearing was all the way down..sat flat in the case, and it was not a sealed bearing, so in other words...if ya was able to get bread under it ? ( which i don't see how ? )..the bread would just push up through the inner race because there was no seal on the bottom of the bearing.

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The outer bearing race sits flush tight, but the bearing and center race is a little bit raised obviously or it would contact rear wall 

If you use bread, it does push up through the bearing a bit, but it kind of plugs it up and pushes the bearing out

I have done same motor, same bearing using this method, but I agree with the thin rear wall to use caution and to support the rear surface- or use a puller -for me it was a 2 day wait for a puller and I am not patient when I have a motor torn down... lol

 

Edited by AKATV
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wanted to inform everyone what me and jeep discovered while talking on the phone. if you go to partzilla ( shiver )..look up something..like bearings for your engine ? ( in this case it was for the final shaft on this project ) if you are not logged in ?, it will show the bearings in stock, BUT !!..if you log in ?, IT WILL SHOW THAT BEARING BEING OUT OF STOCK !. sooo..keep this in mind before you place the order ? ( LIKE I DID ! )..LOL. 

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update: got a couple bearings in yesterday ( small order ),,i got them all oiled up, pressed into the case halves. gotta wait until i get the rest of the bearings before i can bottom up the bottom end. i'll snap some pics when i get all the new bearings installed :-).

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update: got the bearings in today, got the lower engine together, its resting on my jack stand lift. did not put the top end on the engine, i'm wore out, been going at stuff sense 7 am this morning, cleaned my carport off to make room for work on my tractor, it has a leak, and i found out where its coming from, of all places, the hydro oil pump, dealership wants 1k for the pump !. sigh. i could spend 400 bucks on a china pump ?, but this is NOT a part i want to gamble on, for one, it takes a couple hours just to get it off ?, and two, this is the heart of the hydro oil system..i do not want to gamble on this part !. drove that to the back yard, started in on the gal's trx450fm, been going at it for about 5-6 hrs, had to call it quits, my leg is killing me, needed to get off it. will get/try to stab the engine in the frame tuesday..i'm just too tired to go any longer.

 

i've got some parts coming in for my camper, gonna do a axle flip, raise it, put some larger tires on it later, parts for this are showing to be here tuesday. hopefully i can get this engine back in the frame before these parts show up ?. Oh..i forgot to snap some pics of the new bearings ?..oh well..like i said...i;ve been going full steam today sense i got up at 6 am, had to run truck to dealership, drop that off, got back here..started in on the carport cleaning, then finding the tractor hydro oil leak, then putting the lower 450fm back  together..i'm beat.

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update: got the engine, and most of the body parts back on/in this project, had to come get some coffee, i'll get back out to the shop here soon, put the engine oil back in, give her a test fire ( like i'm worried it wont run ?..lol ). will update with some finish pic's once i give it a test ride/run..and make sure everything is right ?..it dang well better be ?..or i'm setting this MF on fire !..( i only wish ! )..lol.

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update: she starts great, runs great, stops great. no metal to metal coming out of the engine now. although !!..yeah yeah..you just knew something was gonna be off huh ?..lol. i've got some '' creaking '' coming from the front suspension, pretty sure its the shock bushings ?, and i've got a worn tie rod end ?, sooo..i'll see if i can solve the shock bushings first with some grease. see about getting 4 new tie rod ends. i also need to re-check the upper and lower ball joints ?, they seemed ok awhile back ?, but i'll re-check them. main thing right now is the shock bushings, and tie rod ends. got too much '' slop '' in the steering, i'll fix that. other than all this ?, engine sounds great, shifts great, stops great.

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59 minutes ago, Snow Camo said:

Awe man that creaking sounds is just the muffler bearings 😆. Run it and ogun it!

it could also be the oil rattling too ?..hmmm...rofl.

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update: stopped by my local honda dealership, picked up 4 new upper and lower ball joints, and 4 tie rod ends, there went another 130 bucks..lol.

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11 minutes ago, shadetree said:

update: stopped by my local honda dealership, picked up 4 new upper and lower ball joints, and 4 tie rod ends, there went another 130 bucks..lol.

 

Well, at least you know it won't need of those things anytime soon!

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Just now, jeepwm69 said:

 

Well, at least you know it won't need of those things anytime soon!

haha...true. not much left to replace ??..i'm starting to think i've got a brand new atv now ?..hmmm..lol. i have little faith in the front wheel bearings ?, they came from my honda dealership awhile back, i found out they were china ?, i may have to see about ordering front wheel bearings from rmatv for oem ?..hmmm..i'll have to ponder that for a bit.

 

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9 minutes ago, shadetree said:

haha...true. not much left to replace ??..i'm starting to think i've got a brand new atv now ?..hmmm..lol. i have little faith in the front wheel bearings ?, they came from my honda dealership awhile back, i found out they were china ?, i may have to see about ordering front wheel bearings from rmatv for oem ?..hmmm..i'll have to ponder that for a bit.

 

 

Order OEM, put them in your toolbox.  They won't get any cheaper, and when the chyna bearings fail, you can swap them out.  They might last, might not, but at least then you're ready when they do.

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update: got all the front end apart and back together, steer's great now, still have to put the inner splash guards back on, and the big front toe splash guards, and then i hope to be done !. rain here tomorrow, but i still can get this done, just can't test ride it.

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14 hours ago, shadetree said:

update: got all the front end apart and back together, steer's great now, still have to put the inner splash guards back on, and the big front toe splash guards, and then i hope to be done !. rain here tomorrow, but i still can get this done, just can't test ride it.

 

I technically haven't beat you on the 450.  My buddy's heel guards will be in Saturday according to the tracking numbers.

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update: well...its as far as i can take this project, by my standards...IT'S DONE !!. i even got the right side mirror installed !.

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Red?  I thought you did green?

 

And you need to drop another couple hundred bucks on decals. LOL

 

Looks good, as your builds always do.

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