TRX300FW - 1995

[Fishfiles 20,145]

That's is a dangerous way to be a wrecker , but it got the job done  ----  if them ratchet straps would have broke , it could have messed me up 

[shadetree 5,864]

1 minute ago, Fishfiles said:

That's is a dangerous way to be a wrecker , but it got the job done  ----  if them ratchet straps would have broke , it could have messed me up 

lol..musta had a few cold ones to pull that off !..lol.

[shadetree 5,864]

gonna head back out to the shop, and try to get this puppy together and running, when i come back in, you should ?, have this 300 motor out of the frame !..lol.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I don't know about that , this chair is feeling pretty good  ^ 

 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Was talking with a buddy today , who has installed a Hayden cooling fan controller on his cooler relocation  set up , never knew they made such a thing ,  this is what it looks like ,  https://www.ebay.com/itm/FAL-31147-Fan-Control-Thermostatic-Adjustable-160-to-240-Degrees-Kit/333511632542?epid=210371902&hash=item4da6d7a69e:g:h48AAOSwfiReQoPM:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!70445!US!-1

[retro 4,048]

Wow! Just embed the thermocouple into a gutted oil temp sensor and ya got a DIY FCU gizmo eh!

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I don't know how that thermo sensor above got linked , I thought I copied and pasted the Hayden model , and that link above which  is a FAL ---------- I just tried to relocate the Hayden  and can't seem to find it at the moment as I didn't bookmark it ---- the Hayden is made different and I don't think anything would have to be imbedded with it , the tube slides thru the coils of the cooler and a plastic clip keeps it in place 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I can be lazy at times , and have learned sometimes lazy will make you do more work then need be , but sometimes doing extra things will help you in the future ,  I didn't want to deal with taking the skid plate off and putting it back on while in the process of removing the engine , wanted to get the foot peg off , I am pulling the motor out the right side , wanted the foot peg out the way for extra clearance , couldn't get to the bolts , Shade told me I could get it out without removing the peg and also from the other side is the way , but , didn't want to mess with the snorkel pipes and being able to remove  the foot peg is a good deal for the future  , as to remove the right cover with the engine still in the frame  the foot peg needs to come off ---so I drill two 1/2 " holes where the bolts are then grinded the holes into slots with a die grinder ---so now it is just the front 424 shaft holding it in , the norm would be to loose the front diff , and move it forward , but here we go again , custom front bumper with a skid plate on it  , stick stoppers , 424 , snorkel pipes , skid plate ,  all  makes it  harder to do than a stock 300   --------  I guess I sing to a different drummer ,  I might slide the swing arm with the rear end attached back out the way , I got a transmission jack that hold the swing arm and rear end perfect so it is not a big deal aligning it back , we will see where it goes , mountain out of a mole hill , I hate moles , LOL 

[jeepwm69 7,606]

Ran into that putting that rebuilt motor in my buddy's 06 500 last weekend.

 

His front bumper and winch mount were welded to the frame.  Made it a rear PITA to get the front diff unbolted and slid forward, but I got it done that way. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

On 3/12/2020 at 10:53 AM, jeepwm69 said:

 

His front bumper and winch mount were welded to the frame.  Made it a rear PITA to get the front diff unbolted and slid forward, but I got it done that way. 

Wow , welded the bumper to the frame , that's something even my weld happy butt  wouldn't do -----  I might weld the winch plate in , not that I ever did before , but might if need be --- 

 

 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

The engine will come out on the right side with the front diff still bolted in place , slide  the rear swing arm/ rear end   back , saved a lot of frustration not dealing with the skid plate or the front diff with all the extra stuff in the way , and the swing arm is pretty easy to slide back with the rear end still attached on a transmission jack 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Opened the engine this evening , which the problem with it was running hot , making a noise which sounded like a valve clatter and a performance lost  , found the screen was  blocked up , no metal pieces was a good thing , just powder coating and Honda Bond and a o-ring , think that was the heating problem  , not getting proper oil  flow to the head , which also took out the timing chain , it was a new DID  250 timing chain and NOS 250 sprocket and the chain is worn out bad , and I think that timing from the chain being loose was the clattering valves and lost of performance ,  crank and rod is good and tight , amazing the cam journals in the head are ok , two rocker bolt hole threads stripped out in the head ,  piston has some small scuff /scratches on it not bad at all , not going to reuse the jug or piston , have a G+H bore job with a shindy piston already ,  got to split the case and clean out any more powder coating , so all in all not too bad so far 

[jeepwm69 7,606]

Dang.  Now THAT"S a clogged up oil screen.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

52 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Dang.  Now THAT"S a clogged up oil screen.

One good thing was everything was in the screen , there is nothing in the bottom of the engine that I can see 

 

I think I caught it before too much damage was done , I am pretty sure that being use to riding 300s saved me some extra grief , I felt it running hotter than normal and not sounding or performing right , temp  light never did come on and I would think it works as when you turn the key on ,  it would go thru it's 3 second ( or whatever it is - on then off cycle ) , also think that the timing chain being so stretched out was allowing it to run wacked out of time and caused some extra heat and downgraded performance ----- amazes me how fast that 250 DID chain wore out , cam looks great , 250 sprocket looks good too , I am going to run it again , ordered a DID 250 chain last night 

 

I need to do some heli-coils on the rocker cover bolts , I think you just done them same bolts , have not researched it yet , if so what size was it , I would guess ,  just thinking  6 x 1.75 ??? 

[jeepwm69 7,606]

28 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

One good thing was everything was in the screen , there is nothing in the bottom of the engine that I can see 

 

I think I caught it before too much damage was done , I am pretty sure that being use to riding 300s saved me some extra grief , I felt it running hotter than normal and not sounding or performing right , temp  light never did come on and I would think it works as when you turn the key on ,  it would go thru it's 3 second ( or whatever it is - on then off cycle ) , also think that the timing chain being so stretched out was allowing it to run wacked out of time and caused some extra heat and downgraded performance ----- amazes me how fast that 250 DID chain wore out , cam looks great , 250 sprocket looks good too , I am going to run it again , ordered a DID 250 chain last night 

 

I need to do some heli-coils on the rocker cover bolts , I think you just done them same bolts , have not researched it yet , if so what size was it , I would guess ,  just thinking  6 x 1.75 ??? 

I ordered a big kit with different sizes like this.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/131Pc-Thread-Repair-Kit-HSS-Drill-Helicoil-Repair-Kit-SAE-Metric-Inch-MM-W-Case/133259532113?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f06e31751:m:ms7WkP5pv2uvlq-Nd7F3CwQ&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXZV5Ny7pK4cCU%2FVPb%2B5WbQp%2BBj2rpKyypRG6fySIs%2BhBdlNjOSPsrZrGfuV3GgPMKSkIag5vb5Pg7bA7ego1nFm1xzXgF5MIdOsNUNFfx0Zl%2FHd77ny0IHhLQ3840ezXY6Y7qYMuTOSlSk29uvwFv7c%2FgnkWP%2FnlFZyN0NvxerEOdiyTupFVtPOOZ5u1LZOrxeabsOyWAuWrjTlNr%2Bpl3VflaxvftwJ%2F8qcQ8D1MAQ%2FQ%2FDtK3JrZTDpn7ou6W97%2BsIjxcCQT0Tk1uIlIvPKScMkfmUItjCrmpMJsrAJ5y4P4X9CypqISqk85C1bSDJtLWmLDjBTsVDy4usa3vhHPajP06ugXIi11f%2Fh3LqtsHaSH3Ha4RLoLDFhz8wy%2F%2FxSQYuxHN14ce3xEU4AhVbu8PmO%2B7g7f%2Fz6%2BJzBIyNj2Auq23AX30ym%2B7faaUqudrt6uYt1IMwHeMYUxXhmwfmXMLk278Qs%2BCp0PHXugGztbZy8LsloGCwHUuzE1wCZVnNCvNAbyzCkH2IueU39mwPXgKR8zJwxvtTuC5a1XDx64APrrZdIOjBr6ScvFawB0Hj9bB3AIlTU7Haxzk1QiCwzRRePsEy94BNNEbEAB%2BXUgsCDVdZN2gnWaIQ546a4q5NvMl5ltflN0MLP9uasChznEAGR9yTxta7K9ocB4hMo1ULtStiqlsVT3AzYRE6y2%2BBEmh5CaDUD0f3PsuCj1ihpktCbUNoiPLe6lbO8yEhAngOF5pAbDTv8iz8ituqsw9MJFI%3D&checksum=133259532113961a2e0689744b12bdb9b72e21091a94

 

Looks like it's an M6x1.0x8.0

 

I had to order some more 6.2MM drill bits yesterday.  The one that came with the kit got dull pretty quick. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Thanks for that link , checking out that metric size set  , seeing if it is sizes I might use , noted the thread pitch is all over the board ---- guess I am going to measure and gauge the threads later on to be sure and maybe do some other bolts on the engine ----$31 for all that is cheap enough , you would likely pay more for one size from a NAPA  , I bought a 12mm set a while back and think is was $45 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I just cleaned off a table and laid out the engine parts I ave taken off on it , took a few pics , going to down load them in a bit , seen a couple of  things that are not kosher --- 

 

here are two pics of the first issue , there is a chunk of rubber stuff which looks and feels  like a piece of  seal stuck in the bearing { I wonder if that could be a piece of bearing seal from the other side that bearing } any ways it don't spin too well and it is stuck good , I pull any harder and it will snap off , oh it is a soft rubber and not really a hard plastic  , LOL ---- also if you look close at the bottom end , you can still see red power coat overspray on the inside the case , not too bad , looks like much of it is gone already in spots ----

[jeepwm69 7,606]

1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

Thanks for that link , checking out that metric size set  , seeing if it is sizes I might use , noted the thread pitch is all over the board ---- guess I am going to measure and gauge the threads later on to be sure and maybe do some other bolts on the engine ----$31 for all that is cheap enough , you would likely pay more for one size from a NAPA  , I bought a 12mm set a while back and think is was $45 

 

I can tell you that the M6 are the right size for these Hondas.  I haven't had to use any of the other sizes yet (knock on wood)

[jeepwm69 7,606]

49 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I just cleaned off a table and laid out the engine parts I ave taken off on it , took a few pics , going to down load them in a bit , seen a couple of  things that are not kosher --- 

 

here are two pics of the first issue , there is a chunk of rubber stuff which looks and feels  like a piece of  seal stuck in the bearing { I wonder if that could be a piece of bearing seal from the other side that bearing } any ways it don't spin too well and it is stuck good , I pull any harder and it will snap off , oh it is a soft rubber and not really a hard plastic  , LOL ---- also if you look close at the bottom end , you can still see red power coat overspray on the inside the case , not too bad , looks like much of it is gone already in spots ----

 

 

Use the bread trick, get that bearing out and see if you can get it cleaned up.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Wow , I would think this is the wrong bearing that was installed , it was suppose to be open on both side , the seal was under the steel bearing cover , it got pushed thru the bearing and had the bearing locked up ----that cheap Harbor Freight blind hole bearing puller has come in handy , have used every size in it , it will pull the small  pinion bearing out a diff --- bet that would have cause some excessive heat build up from that side case bearing --- I think the reason it is soft plastic is it has a outer steel cover and it went thru the washing machine , steel washed 

 

 What you think Shade , dump a gallon of diesel thru the engine , super douche  , change that bearing and send it , LOL    , went this far , need to dig down deep , no telling what else I might or even might not find in there 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I think that bearing I need to I think the bearing , in the right side cover pic'ed above is the bearing I need to replace :  number 32 on this print , fiche of the page below , any comments appreciated 

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1995/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/transmission

[jeepwm69 7,606]

You sure it isn't #9 here?

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1995/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/crankshaft-piston

 

That #32 you posted I believe is the bearing the transmission shaft rides on in the crankcase.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

The bearing that goes into the right side cover is the one I am looking for , I think it is 32 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

You see in this pic , the starter gear cover was powder coated silver  , the silver got messed up quick when I washed the bike with some simple green or purple clean and got dulled out  , I think the gray material on the screen was the powder coating off the back of that cover , I had to swop that cover , cause I went to check the timing and there was no plug in the cover for the allen wrench , so I had to swop to a 4wd cover as that silver cover in the pic is a 2wd cover , that was another mess up on that engine build , I even wonder if I got my parts back , LOL 

[shadetree 5,864]

#9 ---> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1995/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/crankshaft-piston .