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Turbo Twister

New to me 2002 TRX450 S

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16 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Both my 450s are disc in the back and front , no vents , but I have the old backing plates in the shed , if no one can come up with a pic for you , I can dig them out , I'd bet there is a pic in the service manual , do you have one ??? Do you need a link to one ?? 

 

I have repaired the vent tubes on differentials before , by drilling the broken piece out then tapping the tube back in , usually it is stuck inside the end of the hose 

I got a link from dad for the service manual, I never thought of looking there to be honest (thank you!)

 

Is it easy to do a disc brake conversion on the 450's? I vaguely remember you mentioning something about them in the past.

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Easy to do a disc conversion in the front or back.  Money is the biggest issue. Lol   
 

 

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1 hour ago, Turbo Twister said:

I got a link from dad for the service manual, I never thought of looking there to be honest (thank you!)

 

Is it easy to do a disc brake conversion on the 450's? I vaguely remember you mentioning something about them in the past.

i just put a high lifter front disk kit on my '02 trx450fm/s project the other day. i tried the super atv version, it would not bolt up on the brake lines for me, so i went back to the high lifter brand, as i've used them in the past with no issues at all. super atv is good, if you can get everything to bolt up ?. and cheaper than high lifter by about 100 bucks.

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6 hours ago, shadetree said:

i just put a high lifter front disk kit on my '02 trx450fm/s project the other day. i tried the super atv version, it would not bolt up on the brake lines for me, so i went back to the high lifter brand, as i've used them in the past with no issues at all. super atv is good, if you can get everything to bolt up ?. and cheaper than high lifter by about 100 bucks.

I had a quick search and found a guy on YouTube who shows very clearly how easy it is to do the conversion kit.

 

I also found a kit for sale in Wales, quite steep! But to get the same kit from the USA is a bit more as the euro is currently weak against the dollar. All in, I'd be looking at around €550 just for the front brakes. The rear brake conversion is about €280, so it's an expensive modification. Saying that, I will be using the bike on high ground with the mower next year so I'll need as much brake as I can get. Do you guys recon the disc brakes are much better?

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TT Quote " 

Do you guys recon the disc brakes are much better? " 

 

 

To me ,  it depends what you are looking for .... if you are looking for better braking performance on the street , your back yard or a hard dry dirt trail , then a good condition OEM brake set up stops you just as good , maybe better ---- but ,  if you ride in extreme wet condition , then the disc is better because it will last longer and is easier and it is cheaper to keep maintained >>>>> or when replacing  all the rusted up OEM brake components , it is easier and cheaper to go with disc 

 

What brand disc kit did you find over there in the UK ? 

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

TT Quote " 

Do you guys recon the disc brakes are much better? " 

 

 

To me ,  it depends what you are looking for .... if you are looking for better braking performance on the street , your back yard or a hard dry dirt trail , then a good condition OEM brake set up stops you just as good , maybe better ---- but ,  if you ride in extreme wet condition , then the disc is better because it will last longer and is easier and it is cheaper to keep maintained >>>>> or when replacing  all the rusted up OEM brake components , it is easier and cheaper to go with disc 

 

What brand disc kit did you find over there in the UK ? 

The bike is generally in wet muddy conditions and on steep hilly ground. There's 2 fields on our farm that are quite steep, I can travel them both by quad but not by tractor, it would be nice to have good brakes when mowing down the hill as I've had to adjust the brakes on the 300 a few times recently after doing a lot of hill work with it.

 

The front brakes didn't work very good on the 450 when I got it, and they're looking a little worse for ware up front, so if I do upgrade them, I'd be willing to spend a little more to get the disc conversion kit.

 

This is the set that Quad Bikes Wales sell, they only have 1 set left in stock, highlifter?

 

On a side note, can you do the same conversion on a 300?

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5 minutes ago, Turbo Twister said:

The bike is generally in wet muddy conditions and on steep hilly ground. There's 2 fields on our farm that are quite steep, I can travel them both by quad but not by tractor, it would be nice to have good brakes when mowing down the hill as I've had to adjust the brakes on the 300 a few times recently after doing a lot of hill work with it.

 

The front brakes didn't work very good on the 450 when I got it, and they're looking a little worse for ware up front, so if I do upgrade them, I'd be willing to spend a little more to get the disc conversion kit.

 

This is the set that Quad Bikes Wales sell, they only have 1 set left in stock, highlifter?

 

On a side note, can you do the same conversion on a 300?

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that is the high lifter, i highly recommend them, even though they are high dollar ?, i had no issues what so ever installing them on any of the 450's that i have built, where with the super atv kit ?, i could not get the brake line to attach to the calibers without the lines rubbing the tie rod end. yes, you can also use this very same kit on the trx300's without any issues, but !!!..you will need to run 12 inch rims in order for the calibers to clear the rims.

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17 hours ago, shadetree said:

that is the high lifter, i highly recommend them, even though they are high dollar ?, i had no issues what so ever installing them on any of the 450's that i have built, where with the super atv kit ?, i could not get the brake line to attach to the calibers without the lines rubbing the tie rod end. yes, you can also use this very same kit on the trx300's without any issues, but !!!..you will need to run 12 inch rims in order for the calibers to clear the rims.

I think I'll leave the 300 as it's being put on light duty works and won't be under as much pressure now that I have the 450.

 

But definitely considering buying the kits for the 450. I did some work on the lights last night (and found a 12v charger on the side of the headlamp that I didn't know about, awesome!). The 2 dipped/main beams were both pointing up to the sky and when I had them fully adjusted down, they were still high. I took the front plastics off and modified the old spring bolts with longer bolts and 4 nuts to lock it in place. Dad tells me I should fit a new spring in between the nuts to absorb any vibration from bulb housing to the frame it's bolted to, so I'll update that at some stage.

 

As usual, all the small fixing points in the plastic are broken or half broken so I'll have to add some aluminium plate or galvo band to make new brackets that hold. 

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33 minutes ago, Turbo Twister said:

The light bar alone would probably be enough for me🤣

Pods put out a lot of light and are cheap on  this side the pond , even though they were made on the other side  of that other pond 

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Pods put out a lot of light and are cheap on  this side the pond , even though they were made on the other side  of that other pond 

Interestingly, they are not so cheap on this side of the pond, even though they're made here!

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Update on the front disc brakes! The pound is pretty poor against the Euro at the moment and could get a lot worse in weeks to come, so, from a little push from my dad, I have purchased the last remaining set of front disc brakes from Quad Bikes Wales😅

I also purchased 4x new centre wheel hubs as I don't like the fact that they're missing.

 

@Fishfiles on average, what is the price of an LED light bar like the one on your own bike pictured above? Something like thst could start from 60/70€ over here. I think you can also get dip/high beam LED light bars over here, but they are very expensive. 

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On 10/14/2022 at 4:11 PM, Turbo Twister said:

.

 

@Fishfiles on average, what is the price of an LED light bar like the one on your own bike pictured above? Something like thst could start from 60/70€ over here. I think you can also get dip/high beam LED light bars over here, but they are very expensive. 

 

 

Turbo , How did I miss this post , I just seen it a week later , sorry about that ---- the brand I been buying is Cree , the 24inch goes for about $40 now days , they use to cost about $25 and they call them 22 inch now and not 24 inch ---- I bought them off e-bay

 

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324557464827?epid=19043733275&hash=item4b9121e4fb:g:cZMAAOSwEpJga859&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Auz87fPKVv5DZmsHtig368CfGooaDFWa4LjD7b5SDV2Ew66ZmKiphPOM2Q6WhY3P6pHCObFKkl6RLFnFPlHjPs3NgomhNfykJeob4CzRn9RbYvdIPhgCOTj6lPuz7QYoOxovOm8%2FnZvE0XVsUkW0stZpu1h3ocB%2FOfkeo5lcBcN0X1v8gb33I4CPWXphcccA7dddget1u9LS%2B7%2BXPVl%2BQOODv4w6tneKfCQTVzARW9nFKECgbuhGp%2BS3EPnbFEWzZ5t1C2RT2CXPpkY%2FCWlTevxlBxfY%2FPuJ%2BCArE1wjiLZEtxLXMtNfd9c7HtZLGxK%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM2vjD8v9g

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In Turbos absence I am starting the front disc conversion on the TRX450. Taking the right front wheel off was easy and then the trouble started. I could not open the castle nut holding the wheel hub onto the drive shaft. A session with a blowlamp, a few squirts of a "rust dissolver", a second session with the blowlamp and the application of a long bar and a big hammer finally shifted it. Then I discovered that the wheel hub was stuck in the steering knuckle. Ther drive shaft is movable but the hub seems to have attached itself to the front wheel bearing. Would I be correct in thinking that I need to undo the upper and lower steering swivels and the track rod end  swivel in order to push out the wheel hub?

 

I have removed the brake cylinders from the backing plate, disonnected the hydraulics and undone the backing plate screws but am apparently no nearer to getting the wheel hub off.

 

Am I on the right track? Another idea I had was to try pushing it off using a hammer actrion drill in hammer only mode through a hole in the backing plate. I have already tried using a drift and a hammer with no obvious result.

 

PS While taking off the hydraulic lines I think I found his braking problem. The end of the line from one wheel cylinder to another was badly corroded and broke as soon as I tried to unscrew the fixing nut.

WhatsApp Image 2022-10-23 at 14.34.57.jpeg

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8 hours ago, Bluezulu49 said:

In Turbos absence I am starting the front disc conversion on the TRX450. Taking the right front wheel off was easy and then the trouble started. I could not open the castle nut holding the wheel hub onto the drive shaft. A session with a blowlamp, a few squirts of a "rust dissolver", a second session with the blowlamp and the application of a long bar and a big hammer finally shifted it. Then I discovered that the wheel hub was stuck in the steering knuckle. Ther drive shaft is movable but the hub seems to have attached itself to the front wheel bearing. Would I be correct in thinking that I need to undo the upper and lower steering swivels and the track rod end  swivel in order to push out the wheel hub?

 

I have removed the brake cylinders from the backing plate, disonnected the hydraulics and undone the backing plate screws but am apparently no nearer to getting the wheel hub off.

 

Am I on the right track? Another idea I had was to try pushing it off using a hammer actrion drill in hammer only mode through a hole in the backing plate. I have already tried using a drift and a hammer with no obvious result.

 

PS While taking off the hydraulic lines I think I found his braking problem. The end of the line from one wheel cylinder to another was badly corroded and broke as soon as I tried to unscrew the fixing nut.

WhatsApp Image 2022-10-23 at 14.34.57.jpeg

unless someone welded the hub to the drive shaft ?, the hub should just pull right off the cv shaft, and out of the knuckle. there is nothing holding it in there. it just slides right into the knuckle bearing.

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On 10/22/2022 at 11:15 AM, Fishfiles said:

Thanks Fish! In comparison, I have looked at the same brand here and one that is just 12 inches wide is almost double the price of the 22inch one!

Screenshot_20221024-075902_Chrome.jpg

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8 hours ago, shadetree said:

unless someone welded the hub to the drive shaft ?, the hub should just pull right off the cv shaft, and out of the knuckle. there is nothing holding it in there. it just slides right into the knuckle bearing.

Hi Shade. Drive shaft is a sliding fit in the hub and I can move it in and out about an inch easily. I suspect that the hub has rusted itself to the inner  ring of the knuckle bearing.

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I spent some time working on the quad this week and after a bit of effort got the castle nuts off the top and bottom knuckle ball joints. The nut on the track rod end was a different matter and I could not budge it. This evening Turbo came home and we tried it again. The result is that I now have a swan neck 1/2" ratchet handle! This led us to give up so we unscrewed the track rod instead.

Then it was new tool time and we used our new pickle fork balljoint separator to undo the top and bottom balljoints.

 

We put the knuckle in our Black and Decker workmate and drove out the wheel hub using an old (imperial) socket. It came out on the first blow but the inner ring of the knuckle bearing is still attached to the hub.

I applied a little heat to the ring but it shows no sign of moving. I will try it again tomorrow. Turbo has a picture of the removed hub and the knuckle and he will post it later.

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19 hours ago, Turbo Twister said:

Photo of said statement above attached.

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That sucks.  I keep a grade 8 bolt (3/8", about 4-5 inches long) that I use for such things.  Put it on the lip and hit it with a hammer.  If that doesn't work, cut off wheel.

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I put the hub in the freezer overnight and when I took it out this morning I heated the ring with a blowlamp but it still would not shift. So I put it in the vice and tapped the ring with a chisel I keep for such work. It took a while and quite a bit of force but I got the ring off. It seems to me that someone was here before and decided to tighten the hub in the bearing by centre punching it. See picture.

I used some 240 grade sandpaper, 3 in 1 oil, some 400 grade wet and dry paper and a lot of elbow grease to get the bearing inner to be a sliding fit on the hub. The bearing itself is pretty rough so we are going to replace both. The hub on the other side came off with hand pressure once I took off the brake drum.

Fortunately the bearings are available locally. Ironically they are coming from the guy who sold the quad to Turbo.

WhatsApp Image 2022-10-27 at 12.49.22.jpeg

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Clean up of the hubs and one knuckle. The other one is still attached to the quad and will be removed later.

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We haven't been doing a whole lot lately on the bike as everything dad gets new parts in, he finds another worn out part🤦

 

We are currently waiting on 2x new front drives due to excess play in the existing ones.

I have been quite busy with work in the meantime but managed to replace one of the badly worn foot pegs last night. The bolts holding in onto the frame were rusted solid, I broke one by spanner and the other one had to be ground off. Hoping the bike will be back together before Xmas at this stage, as we really need it back on the farm to take the heavy work away from the 300.

 

Just as I finished up, I noticed a small oil leak (last picture) on the rhs of the engine, so looks like a new seal is required.

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