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Turbo Twister

New to me 2002 TRX450 S

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Hi all,

 

Been a while since I've been out using the 450, but I went to start it the other day and it would not, no lights showing on the dash. I fully charged the battery and still no lights on the dash. So I went to the backup pull starter and it fired straight away. This leads me to suspect that the voltage regulator above the rear right wheel is fried as I hear a click coming from it when I attempt to start it on the key.

 

Any opinions welcome before I order a new voltage regulator?

 

Edit: The rare time I go to start it, the dash lights come up and it fires, but the lights flicker when it's running.

Edited by Turbo Twister

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46 minutes ago, Turbo Twister said:

Hi all,

 

Been a while since I've been out using the 450, but I went to start it the other day and it would not, no lights showing on the dash. I fully charged the battery and still no lights on the dash. So I went to the backup pull starter and it fired straight away. This leads me to suspect that the voltage regulator above the rear right wheel is fried as I hear a click coming from it when I attempt to start it on the key.

 

Any opinions welcome before I order a new voltage regulator?

 

Edit: The rare time I go to start it, the dash lights come up and it fires, but the lights flicker when it's running.

If you suspect the voltage regulator is bad , get the motor running and attach a voltage meter to the battery terminals , you should be between 13.5 and 14.5 with the motor running ----- are you sure the  clicking is not coming from the solenoid ---- I have never heard of a voltage regulator clicking 

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On 5/28/2023 at 1:44 PM, Fishfiles said:

If you suspect the voltage regulator is bad , get the motor running and attach a voltage meter to the battery terminals , you should be between 13.5 and 14.5 with the motor running ----- are you sure the  clicking is not coming from the solenoid ---- I have never heard of a voltage regulator clicking 

Hi Fish,

Where is the solenoid located on it? I will check the voltage this evening when I'm back. I'm afraid to use the bike incase I fry something, but I also need it for mowing and spreading ASAP.

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The starter solenoid is in the battery box.   It is round and the positive battery cable attaches to it.  It should hear it click when you hit the starter button.  You can use a test light or voltage meter to test it 

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Here is a pic of the starter solenoid , what ever you do , if you need one , don't buy the one for your 450 for a Honda 450 , OEM is $141 dollars now days , buy one for a 420 which is only $52 

 

image.png

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I get used solenoids from powersportsnation.  Cheap and OEM.

 

Same with voltage regulators.

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On 5/28/2023 at 1:44 PM, Fishfiles said:

If you suspect the voltage regulator is bad , get the motor running and attach a voltage meter to the battery terminals , you should be between 13.5 and 14.5 with the motor running ----- are you sure the  clicking is not coming from the solenoid ---- I have never heard of a voltage regulator clicking 

We ran the engine and sure enough, it didn't jump above 12.5v while revving, in fact, it didn't rise at all. It is the solenoid that is clicking, does that mean it's a bad solenoid too?

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33 minutes ago, Turbo Twister said:

We ran the engine and sure enough, it didn't jump above 12.5v while revving, in fact, it didn't rise at all. It is the solenoid that is clicking, does that mean it's a bad solenoid too?

The solenoid might be clicking because the voltage is low , I think I would charge up the battery on a charger and see if she will start then ---- 

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Now we just got to figure out if the voltage regulator, the stator or the wiring is bad causing it not to charge --- I was just on Powersportsnation last week  looking for a regulator for a 300 project , they sell used regulators for $24.99 used , but  I know your on the other side the ditch --- I would take my chances and change the regulator and see what happens , but I wouldn't want to buy one new , don't know what a 450 regulator cost , but a 300 regulator is $303 US , ouch 

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On 5/31/2023 at 11:17 AM, Fishfiles said:

Now we just got to figure out if the voltage regulator, the stator or the wiring is bad causing it not to charge --- I was just on Powersportsnation last week  looking for a regulator for a 300 project , they sell used regulators for $24.99 used , but  I know your on the other side the ditch --- I would take my chances and change the regulator and see what happens , but I wouldn't want to buy one new , don't know what a 450 regulator cost , but a 300 regulator is $303 US , ouch 

A regulator over here is €131 plus €10 postage, which equates to 140$. My only concern is that there seems to be 2 types of regulator for the 450, a square one or a rounded shaped one, both of which are the same price but one is for 2002 onwards, the other is up to 2002, my bike is a 2002 so I'm confused as to which one to get. The one currently on the bike is the rounded shaped one and it looks relatively new, which causes my concern over it being another electrical issue causing the regulator to fry.

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Looks to me from reviewing the part number interchanges , they are interchangeable 

 

As far as if the regulator is bad or there is a another problem , I am not the guy to talk with about testing the stator , never had that problem before   

 

 

 

 

 

image.png

31600-HM7-003 RECTIFIER ASSY., REGULATOR
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________________________________

 

Power sports nation has  a used square regulator for $18 --- even with shipping it might be cheaper for you 

1482711_IMG_0112.JPG

$18.99

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I think you'll be fine using any 450 Regulator.  One from a 350 Rancher will also work.

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On 6/2/2023 at 5:33 PM, jeepwm69 said:

I think you'll be fine using any 450 Regulator.  One from a 350 Rancher will also work.

Appreciate the feedback😄I will order a new voltage regulator in a few days time. I'll let you all know of the update on it, I do at least have the 300 to fall back on for the smaller jobs until the 450 is running again

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Hi guys. Bike has come back to me as Turbo is house renovating at the moment. First thing I noticed was that the battery terminals were crusty. So we cleaned them and the wire terminals  with a brass wire brush, coated them with dielectric grease and reconnected them. When we ran the engine the voltage actoss the battery measured 14.5. With the engine off the battery measured over 13. I just measured the battery voltage again and find it is 12.99, pretty high I think  since its 4 days since the engine ran.

 

I looked at the voltage regulator and found that one of the fixing bolts was snapped off in the frame. So I drilled it out with an undersize (4.5mm ) bit and the broken part came out. I tried a 6mm bolt in the hole and found that the threads were stripped. This left me with a dilemma. The next size bolt we have is 8mm but if I used this I would have to enlarge the mounting holes in the current and any replacement voltage regulator. This does not seem to be a good idea for a machine that will work in a very high humidity environment so I decided to go for 7mm bolts instead. The problem now is that 7mm bolts are like hens teeth over here so I am waiting for a delivery from England which should arrive this week. When they come I will re-attach the regulator and measure the output voltage again. If It remains high I will replace the regulator.

 

Since the regulator was not making good mechanical contact with the frame I wonder if this caused it to overheat and fail. I would welcome advice on this.

 

I had a look at powersportsnation for the used regulator but it appears that they only trade with USA and not overseas. 

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24 minutes ago, Bluezulu49 said:

 

 

Since the regulator was not making good mechanical contact with the frame I wonder if this caused it to overheat and fail. I would welcome advice on this.

 

I had a look at powersportsnation for the used regulator but it appears that they only trade with USA and not overseas. 

 

Hi BlueZulu , have always heard the saying " Loose wires cause fires , Loose lips sink ships " 

 

 

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On 6/18/2023 at 7:21 AM, Bluezulu49 said:

Hi guys. Bike has come back to me as Turbo is house renovating at the moment. First thing I noticed was that the battery terminals were crusty. So we cleaned them and the wire terminals  with a brass wire brush, coated them with dielectric grease and reconnected them. When we ran the engine the voltage actoss the battery measured 14.5. With the engine off the battery measured over 13. I just measured the battery voltage again and find it is 12.99, pretty high I think  since its 4 days since the engine ran.

 

I looked at the voltage regulator and found that one of the fixing bolts was snapped off in the frame. So I drilled it out with an undersize (4.5mm ) bit and the broken part came out. I tried a 6mm bolt in the hole and found that the threads were stripped. This left me with a dilemma. The next size bolt we have is 8mm but if I used this I would have to enlarge the mounting holes in the current and any replacement voltage regulator. This does not seem to be a good idea for a machine that will work in a very high humidity environment so I decided to go for 7mm bolts instead. The problem now is that 7mm bolts are like hens teeth over here so I am waiting for a delivery from England which should arrive this week. When they come I will re-attach the regulator and measure the output voltage again. If It remains high I will replace the regulator.

 

Since the regulator was not making good mechanical contact with the frame I wonder if this caused it to overheat and fail. I would welcome advice on this.

 

I had a look at powersportsnation for the used regulator but it appears that they only trade with USA and not overseas. 

 

Yall don't have helicoils over there?  I would have used a helicoil with another 6mm bolt. 

 

There is definitely a heat sink on the back of that regulator, but I have no idea if that would be enough to kill one.  @retro, @AKATV and @Melatv are the guys with the electrical brains.

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Overheating is bad for these regulators for sure and they have a built like a heat sink (fins,) so it helps to be be mounted to clean surface to surface to help disperse heat

I have not known one to fail outright from heat to MY knowledge, the killer for these is running with a bad battery or no battery at all, as well as overkill voltage draw with excessive lights, handwarmers, winch etc and the poor battery/stator/regulator can only keep up with so much.

Also jump starting these with a running car/truck jumper cables is a BAD idea, Non running vehicle is OK. Shorting the positive side of harness and reverse polarity jumper cables is way bad too, but fuse will protect it most times

I second a helicoil or similar to repair your mounting hole or you could just put a longer bolt through the hole and have a nut on back instead of special ordering 7mm bolts?

-AKATV

 

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