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Gremlin

Dream machine 2001 350es modifications/rebuild/potential disaster! Ha

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It depends on what ya have on hand as far as scrap tubing or sheet that you can fabricate with I imagine. I would remove the rust first then make a plan. If you are willing to throw some cash at it ya might measure the angle of those tubing bends, then ask a local muffler shop to bend two short pipes for ya using slightly larger diameter tubing, then cut the bends out of the new pipe and split them lengthwise to make clam-shell patches that can be welded onto the bottom of those frame tubes with a MIG.

 

Note that the front diff drain plug is only accessible through that center hole in the gusset, so ya don't want to cover that hole up with a cross brace... ya probably won't need any additional strength there anyway.

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I had a very similar issue with the 300 im rebuilding, except it was much much worse. I ended up buying an entirely new frame. The frame I got also had a few spots. I cut/grinded them out, then cut some sections of frame out of a crap chinese odes 400 I have, and sleeved/welded the sections up. Those sections will be tricky because they incorporate a bend in the frame. Its doable from what I experienced though. Just need some tubing and a welder, and some patience.

 

A youtuber called Mustie1 does some frame repair on a honda. Ill see if I can link to it here....

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I think you have the right plan to get it going again. The other side looks like it is getting pretty soft as well. If your plate covers the drain hole fro the front diff make sure to make an opening for that.

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Thanks @retro, @TRX Student and @toodeep.

 

That video was great. Think that will be my plan of attack. If it isn't much worse than I think that should be sufficient. If it is worse I'll go with a plate too. I'm fabing an aluminum skid plate so if I do have to steel plate, I'll make sure they meet nicely.  I have a pipe bender at home so that will definitely help. 

 

I was going to drill a few holes and use threaded inserts to affix the aluminium skid but is that opening myself up to weakening the frame more? Is there a better option for attaching a skid? I want to be able to remove for cleaning from time to time.

Edited by Gremlin
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Weld small pieces to the frame where needed to match your skid plate -- drill & tap those pieces 

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14 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Weld small pieces to the frame where needed to match your skid plate -- drill & tap those pieces 

That makes great sense! Thanks!!

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Forman brake lever with micro switches and throttle housing with 2x4/4x4 switch has arrived.  

20200201_081651.jpg

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I have 2 off them throttle assemblies  with the 4x2 switches in them , if anyone else doing this mod ----  what did that throttle cost in Canada 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I have 2 off them throttle assemblies  with the 4x2 switches in them , if anyone else doing this mod ----  what did that throttle cost in Canada 

 

 

I had a guy want 100 and I got this one for 30 so I guess what someone will pay. The brake I got for 25.  A used atv parts place wanted 50 a piece. Lucked into someone parting out. 

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Did you get the short sub-harness that plugs into the brake lever micro switches with that master cylinder? No problem if ya didn't... just saves ya time and materials making your own.

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5 hours ago, retro said:

Did you get the short sub-harness that plugs into the brake lever micro switches with that master cylinder? No problem if ya didn't... just saves ya time and materials making your own.

No, i didn't but I have tonnes of wiring supplies.  Just have to sort out which goes where. Lol

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after looking back through this thread, man, that frame is pretty bad !. i would have found me a better frame..lol. but i guess up where you are, frames are hard to come by ?.

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On 2/17/2020 at 8:38 AM, shadetree said:

after looking back through this thread, man, that frame is pretty bad !. i would have found me a better frame..lol. but i guess up where you are, frames are hard to come by ?.

It looks horrible but is actually really solid besides that front spot. I took the welding hammer to it and couldn't break through anywhere.  Ya, frames are, they all rot out.

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Still working on the frame but A Arms are getting the orange splash!

20200306_114420.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Gremlin said:

Still working on the frame but A Arms are getting the orange splash!

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please tell me you masked off the rubber mounting bushings ???..lol.

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29 minutes ago, shadetree said:

please tell me you masked off the rubber mounting bushings ???..lol.

Hahahahaha!! YES!!!

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1 hour ago, Gremlin said:

Hahahahaha!! YES!!!

whewwwwwww..good deal !..lol.

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On 3/6/2020 at 6:11 PM, shadetree said:

please tell me you masked off the rubber mounting bushings ???..lol.

Just for you!! Lol

 

I picked up a little sandblaster for the hard to reach spots on the frame. It is taking forever but I want to do it proper. It is really solid just alot of work. Lol

 

And I took the last one for you @shadetree haha

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Edited by Gremlin
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haha..good deal !, some ppl have no clue what paint does to rubber bushings ?!.

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For a while I worked for a crane manufacturer , the painters would apply a thin coat of grease to bushings and such that where not to get paint , once the paint was dried , a paper towel would wipe it all away , a lot easier than dealing with tape 

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Got a spring compressor (highlifter) used for 30 bucks and finally got the springs apart to paint.  Got time off work for the ol Covid so going to try to go at this rebuild hard in the next few weeks. Still working on the frame. Lol

20200407_130759.jpg

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Question??

 

I have the front shocks apart.  The plastic that is in there on the front shocks. Do I NEED that? Can I just trim it up to the top so the ring is still around the top for spacing but leave the shock exposed? The plastic really rubs on the spring and definitely will just rub the paint off. 

Thoughts??

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9 minutes ago, Gremlin said:

Question??

 

I have the front shocks apart.  The plastic that is in there on the front shocks. Do I NEED that? Can I just trim it up to the top so the ring is still around the top for spacing but leave the shock exposed? The plastic really rubs on the spring and definitely will just rub the paint off. 

Thoughts??

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i dont know the reason for them ?, other than maybe keep dirt and mud off the shock shaft ?. i would at least leave a couple inches at the top.

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