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Gremlin

Dream machine 2001 350es modifications/rebuild/potential disaster! Ha

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Just now, shadetree said:

i dont know the reason for them ?, other than maybe keep dirt and mud off the shock shaft ?. i would at least leave a couple inches at the top.

That's what I thought.  The bronco shock on the back doesn't have anything like that. It is totally exposed. That's what I was thinking, cut it way back. 

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2 hours ago, Gremlin said:

The plastic that is in there on the front shocks. Do I NEED that?

 

I would leave those plastic sleeves alone. They hold the long coil springs straight and keep them from rubbing on the shock body. They also keep mud off from the piston shaft seal at the top of the shock body.

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7 hours ago, retro said:

 

I would leave those plastic sleeves alone. They hold the long coil springs straight and keep them from rubbing on the shock body. They also keep mud off from the piston shaft seal at the top of the shock body.

Bugger. They really rub inside and figured of the back shock needs no protection the front be ok without too. Is there another model I could upgrade the front shocks with? Like 420 or 4ppex shocks?

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I don't know if any other shocks interchange or not. The spring wire diameter is too small (springs not stiff enough) to remove those support sleeves, they'll rub on the metal shock body and wear holes in them.

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8 minutes ago, retro said:

I don't know if any other shocks interchange or not. The spring wire diameter is too small (springs not stiff enough) to remove those support sleeves, they'll rub on the metal shock body and wear holes in them.

Well shucks. 

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I am making headway with the frame though at least.  Going to weld the front, bent and cut pipe today. And run another length on both sides near the footpegs where the plow mount was cut off. 

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So what grease is best. Will this stuff be ok for the es gears? And just a light amount like what was in there or load that sucker up? Lol

 

Shocks and arms turned out mint!

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25 minutes ago, slowindown said:

I'm really liking those orange a-arms and springs!

 

My honda is an orange 02 rancher 4x4 ES too.

 

 

Thanks!! Hoping she looks sharp.  I have done this with my 250 years ago, painted the underside of the plastics with black rocker guard. Turned out really well.  Going to really help the orange underneath pop! I like the underside dark. 

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Please dont judge the welding!! Haha  I only ever took a short night course and the instructor said "you guys will never weld, just stick s&$t together"  It is solid though.

Taking it to clean now, dry fit the front diff and that cut, ugly as it is seems to be perfect.  Painting going well, clearcoat stage. Frame painting next!

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Well, covid brought a long delay in plans woth the quad but finally getting back to it.  Reassembly is in progress!

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So, I am not at the point of trying to wire up the 400at diff. @retro built his own voltage regulator. I kind of forgot I needed something 😅  Is there any type of regulator I can buy on Amazon or somewhere else? Any input be valuable. 

 

I did do the 420 front knuckle and disc brake swap. Fit very well.

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The diff will work with 12v, but Retro said it would make the actuator last longer if the minimum voltage required was used. 
 

Maybe @Goober or @Melatv can weigh in since they seem to be good with that type of thing.

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17 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

The diff will work with 12v, but Retro said it would make the actuator last longer if the minimum voltage required was used. 
 

Maybe @Goober or @Melatv can weigh in since they seem to be good with that type of thing.

Thanks. There are 3 harnesses off the diff and I either can't remember what wires I'm supposed to use....or I just never knew. Lol

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You only wire up the actuator.

 

The other two plugs are speed sensors, which aren’t needed on a 350

 

 

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Sorry I don’t know how these work or how the actuator functions.
Dont even know how the cable actuated function works.

Does power only have to be applied to change the locking feature position? So that if you lose power it stays in the selected setting? That would be a good system feature but I don’t think that’s how it works 

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1 hour ago, Goober said:

Sorry I don’t know how these work or how the actuator functions.
Dont even know how the cable actuated function works.

Does power only have to be applied to change the locking feature position? So that if you lose power it stays in the selected setting? That would be a good system feature but I don’t think that’s how it works 

No , it does not lock in the selected function Ex:4wd , when power is applied to shifts to 4x4 , when power is lost , or there is a malfunction it returns to 2wd , so default is 2wd , which is a bad thing if your in the woods , have a problem  and need 4x4 to get out --- it let me down so many times on my 450 , that  I took the electric 4wd  shift off my 450 and went to the Wide Open  424 

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Feeling pretty F'n stupid right now but this has been a longggg rebuild. 

Putting wires back together.  Does the starter wire go to the silonoid which goes to positive? Where the heck does the negative from battery go? I'm drawing a total blank. 

She's close.

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Like someone please take a pic or two and refresh me where I bolt this. Lol

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7 hours ago, Gremlin said:

Like someone please take a pic or two and refresh me where I bolt this. Lol

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word from the wise, when you walk away from this kinda work...come back days..weeks...maybe even months ?, you WILL forget where you left off !..lol. always take pics BEFORE you remove a part if you are new at this ??. that cable , bend end, mounts tang side down to the spot at right rear top side of engine, 10mm headed bolt. flat eye attaches to the right frame where all the connectors slide on the tangs. other end attaches to the battery neg post. from battery, red end of harness goes to battery on pos post, then the other end attaches to the starter solenoid, the other side of the starter solenoid post runs to the starter. NEVER WIRE THESE BACKWARDS !.

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