88trx350d

[Raystrx350d 47]

7 hours ago, Goober said:

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Ok I'll check this!! Thanks for all your help.. oh meant checked engine side of harness I checked.  I ordered a oem relay.. I'll let you know when it gets here

[Raystrx350d 47]

12 hours ago, Goober said:

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Have continuity on fuel pump and at relay

Edited February 23, 2023 by Raystrx350d

[Raystrx350d 47]

12 hours ago, Goober said:

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Sorry continuity at both places

[Raystrx350d 47]

On 2/15/2023 at 10:42 PM, _Wilson_™ said:

 

Plus ^^^^^ Back track.... As shade says.... You HAD a spark before all the replaced parts, work, etc.....could very well be a oem part you replaced with china junk failed... Thanks for updating us... The more we know...  better help can be provided.... And pics / videos are a BIG Help! Speaking of....did the oem cdi come from a private vender in New York ?? Or honda dealership ? And last question .... You say the safety number switch lights up  .... Are you referring to the green neutral light ?  

Yes sorry was referring to the neutral safety switch. & oil light temp comes on then goes back out

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

Np ...👍👌.. I thought thats what you were refurring to. 

[shadetree 5,880]

keep in mind, a no-spark issue can be a bad c.d.i. ? ( maybe they sold you the wrong year ? ). a bad reg/rec ?, bad stator ? ( stator must match flywheel ! )  bad kill switch ? ( not making good contact ? ), bad..lose ground ?..bad spark coil ?, you claim you had spark before you tore into it ?, but now you do not ?..this tells me..something got changed after you started tearing into it ?, or..you changed a part that was not bad ?..when i run across something like this, i go back to where i first changed something..put it back like it was..then trace from there.

[Goober 1,555]

At least you’re learning the ignition system!!  Are you gettin a new pulse generator? 
 

While waiting for parts, continue to inspect and perform electrical checks on wires you may have jostled while doing your other repair work. Use the schematic to double check the kill switch at all those connections on the right front of the quad.
 

get some contact cleaner, permatex dielectric grease and a few plumbers flux brushes. Maybe a brass and nylon gun cleaning brushes. not steel brush. Disconnect and clean all those connections while you’re doing continuity checks—apply a thin film of the grease on the electrical contacts and the backshell of the connectors—you’ll find they snap together and disconnect more easily.

 

Look for weak wires on the harness and subharness. every time i went to start mine i had a steady neutral light. When i cranked it the light would go out. So I swapped the neutral and reverse leads and tried again. Of course the reverse light came on steady and i got it to start—that was a hallelujah moment, because i knew the malfunction was isolated to the neutral wire portion of the circuit. i found the neutral switch connector wire hanging by 2-3 strands. 

 

Does your fan come on? Disconnect the oil temp sensor lead and touch it to the footpeg. The oil light should come on steady and fan should come on 
 

 

[Goober 1,555]

A little mistake like having the coil leads switched is easy to check. The color codes on the coil are hard to see

Edited February 23, 2023 by Goober

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Sometimes when diagnosing a lingering problem , you need to step back ,  forget " everything " that you think you know , revert back to how everything was when you first started and start over --- kind of like a reboot ----   I have learned  that more times than not , when it was all over , I had touch , had looked at or had passed by the problem --- swop back all the parts that you changed along the way and regroup  

[shadetree 5,880]

50 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Sometimes when diagnosing a lingering problem , you need to step back ,  forget " everything " that you think you know , revert back to how everything was when you first started and start over --- kind of like a reboot ----   I have learned  that more times than not , when it was all over , I had touch , had looked at or had passed by the problem --- swop back all the parts that you changed along the way and regroup  

you make the very same point i made above ^^^, something tells me he changed a part, that did not need changing maybe ?, or moved/touched/pulled apart something causing this mess.

[Raystrx350d 47]

On 2/23/2023 at 9:43 AM, shadetree said:

you make the very same point i made above ^^^, something tells me he changed a part, that did not need changing maybe ?, or moved/touched/pulled apart something causing this mess.

OEM fuel relay came in, still no spark! 

Every part passes specs.. old parts check out in specs too.. I've checked every inch of harness.. every ground. I'm at at loss. 

[Raystrx350d 47]

On 2/23/2023 at 8:35 AM, Goober said:

A little mistake like having the coil leads switched is easy to check. The color codes on the coil are hard to see

The OEM fuel pump relay came in,  still no spark.  I've even changed those around to check for spark. The yellow and black goes to postive or negative on coil? Doesn't show on wiring diagram. 

[Raystrx350d 47]

On 2/23/2023 at 6:37 AM, shadetree said:

keep in mind, a no-spark issue can be a bad c.d.i. ? ( maybe they sold you the wrong year ? ). a bad reg/rec ?, bad stator ? ( stator must match flywheel ! )  bad kill switch ? ( not making good contact ? ), bad..lose ground ?..bad spark coil ?, you claim you had spark before you tore into it ?, but now you do not ?..this tells me..something got changed after you started tearing into it ?, or..you changed a part that was not bad ?..when i run across something like this, i go back to where i first changed something..put it back like it was..then trace from there.

Yes had spark when I bought it, wouldn't run, had 2 bent valves. Repaired those. Put new rings and valve seals in it. Adjusted the valves. Put it back together no spark.  No parts was changed until the mechanical problem was fixed. All parts I changed are in spec, all parts I replaced after no spark issue are in spec. Checked every inch of wiring harness grounds etc. Looks new. Everything on it works, lights, dash lights, starter switch. Fuel pump doesn't charge when key is turned on, and no spark.  At a loss.. to the point I'm thinking about parting out whole bike. 🤔 

[Snow Camo 242]

Hey when you checked the ignition switch did you bypass all 4 wires or 2?

[shadetree 5,880]

2 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

Yes had spark when I bought it, wouldn't run, had 2 bent valves. Repaired those. Put new rings and valve seals in it. Adjusted the valves. Put it back together no spark.  No parts was changed until the mechanical problem was fixed. All parts I changed are in spec, all parts I replaced after no spark issue are in spec. Checked every inch of wiring harness grounds etc. Looks new. Everything on it works, lights, dash lights, starter switch. Fuel pump doesn't charge when key is turned on, and no spark.  At a loss.. to the point I'm thinking about parting out whole bike. 🤔 

you need to double check what yr c.d.i. you bought ?..that model/year is a ONE YEAR ONLY !. no other c.d.i's will work on that bike !. don't tell me you bought a oem c.d.i. from some place out of new york ?, if that person knows anything about this year/make ?..then they should know very well that bike is a one year only for the c.d.i. if it ran ( fired off ) before you tore into it ?, then this tells me you got a problem some where in the electrical area..what and where ?..i do not know ?..what i do know is, you changed something to make it not fire the plug now !..now you must back track, and see where this issue is ?.

[shadetree 5,880]

2 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

OEM fuel relay came in, still no spark! 

Every part passes specs.. old parts check out in specs too.. I've checked every inch of harness.. every ground. I'm at at loss. 

and what about the fan control unit...how did you test this ?..because there is no test for it...other than replacing it with a new oem control unit !. you can however, unplug the fan control wire from the oil temp switch, turn key on, ground the wire to the engine for a good ground..when you do this, the fan should kick on. if it does ?..then this tells me the fan control might be the bad part. the bad news is...this fan control unit is no longer being sold today.

[shadetree 5,880]

2 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

Yes had spark when I bought it, wouldn't run, had 2 bent valves. Repaired those. Put new rings and valve seals in it. Adjusted the valves. Put it back together no spark.  No parts was changed until the mechanical problem was fixed. All parts I changed are in spec, all parts I replaced after no spark issue are in spec. Checked every inch of wiring harness grounds etc. Looks new. Everything on it works, lights, dash lights, starter switch. Fuel pump doesn't charge when key is turned on, and no spark.  At a loss.. to the point I'm thinking about parting out whole bike. 🤔 

does the fuel pump '' tick '' when you are cranking it over ?, if not ?, then the fuel pump is bad. as you already said you bought a new fuel cut-off relay, so that rules that out. which means the fuel pump is bad. is the fuel pump oem ?..or did you get it off ebay or amazon ?. if its not from honda ?..its a china knock-off..junk.

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, Snow Camo said:

Hey when you checked the ignition switch did you bypass all 4 wires or 2?

Just 2, 

[Raystrx350d 47]

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

does the fuel pump '' tick '' when you are cranking it over ?, if not ?, then the fuel pump is bad. as you already said you bought a new fuel cut-off relay, so that rules that out. which means the fuel pump is bad. is the fuel pump oem ?..or did you get it off ebay or amazon ?. if its not from honda ?..its a china knock-off..junk.

Can put battery voltage to it with probe and it works fine, or straight to battery works fine.

[Raystrx350d 47]

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

and what about the fan control unit...how did you test this ?..because there is no test for it...other than replacing it with a new oem control unit !. you can however, unplug the fan control wire from the oil temp switch, turn key on, ground the wire to the engine for a good ground..when you do this, the fan should kick on. if it does ?..then this tells me the fan control might be the bad part. the bad news is...this fan control unit is no longer being sold today.

I only tested the new and old parts I replaced, the fan will come on if it's power put to it with a probe,  

[shadetree 5,880]

other than the valve work you did, put everything that you took off it..back on. my money say's there is an electrical issue..either harness side ?, or reg/rec ?, or c.d.i. you need to call that place you purchased the c.d.i. from, and ask them about what they sold you ?, what is the part number on the box that the new c.d.i. came in ?..post it here in this thread.

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

you need to double check what yr c.d.i. you bought ?..that model/year is a ONE YEAR ONLY !. no other c.d.i's will work on that bike !. don't tell me you bought a oem c.d.i. from some place out of new york ?, if that person knows anything about this year/make ?..then they should know very well that bike is a one year only for the c.d.i. if it ran ( fired off ) before you tore into it ?, then this tells me you got a problem some where in the electrical area..what and where ?..i do not know ?..what i do know is, you changed something to make it not fire the plug now !..now you must back track, and see where this issue is ?.

It's the same part number that mine came with 1545 shin. I agree I think it's in the wiring somewhere.  But I've been over ever inch of the harness and it looks new. 

[shadetree 5,880]

Just now, Raystrx350d said:

It's the same part number that mine came with 1545 shin. I agree I think it's in the wiring somewhere.  But I've been over ever inch of the harness and it looks new. 

again...post the FULL PART NUMBER OFF THE BOX THAT THE C.D.I. CAME IN PLZ !

 

[Raystrx350d 47]

1 minute ago, shadetree said:

again...post the FULL PART NUMBER OFF THE BOX THAT THE C.D.I. CAME IN PLZ !

 

Give me just a min and I will

[shadetree 5,880]

for the record, i've been doing this 30 yrs..i know these models inside out...there ain't much about them i do not know ?!..lol.