Jump to content
winchester

2013 TRX420FPA No Spark, "-" flashing continuously on display

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Melatv said:

You may already done this -- but if not key off check the continuity of the Up/Dn switch on the Black connector of PCM  -- W/R is common -- W/Bu is up & W/Y is down

 

Also with the Key on check for 12 VDC on the Bu/O wire on the Black connector of the PCM when the drive switch is in AT

 

That beep you hear is the Idle Air control valve

 

Ok so I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. I unplugged the black PCM connector and checked the continuity of W/R and W/Bu by putting the probes in the PCM connector holes and pressing the up button with the key off - no continuity. I then tested the down button by putting the multimeter probes in the W/Y and W/R holes and pressing the down button - still got no continuity.

 

I checked the bu/o wire and it is getting 12v when it is in auto mode.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Okay -- You will have to go to connector 14P Gray to check it -- also check continuity of the wire back to PCM if switches are okay -- see picture.

 

I am out of here for the night

Up_Dn.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Ok I checked out the connector. It was the green one, it was glued together and I ended up damaging it trying to get it apart so I just cut it off and spliced all the wires together. I am getting continuity of the up and down buttons at the PCM now but it is still throwing the code 15 when I try to shift.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Sorry for the mix up with the connector -- have you check for 12 VDC at the Y/Bl wire on the brown shift connector -- if you did and don't get 12 VDC -- go back to the Green connector that you fixed up and check to see if you have 5 VDC on the W/R wire to neg. of battery

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Sorry for the mix up with the connector -- have you check for 12 VDC at the Y/Bl wire on the brown shift connector -- if you did and don't get 12 VDC -- go back to the Green connector that you fixed up and check to see if you have 5 VDC on the W/R wire to neg. of battery

No problem I appreciate the help. I checked the Y/Bl wire at the shift solenoid again and it is still getting 1.65v that goes down to 1.1v. I checked the W/R wire and it is getting 5VDC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Have you checked the Y/Bl for continuity from the shift solenoid to the PCM and also the green wire to neg of battery?

Also on the Gray connector on the PCM check continuity on 3 green wires and G/O wire to ground

Also check and clean the green ground wires --see Section 1 --- page 1-43

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Have you checked the Y/Bl for continuity from the shift solenoid to the PCM and also the green wire to neg of battery?

Also on the Gray connector on the PCM check continuity on 3 green wires and G/O wire to ground

Also check and clean the green ground wires --see Section 1 --- page 1-43

 

The Y/Bl has continuity to the PCM connector and the green solenoid wire has continuity to ground. I took the bolt off where all the grounds go on the frame and sanded the terminals and frame before to make sure the connection was good a few days ago.

 

I just checked the 3 green wires on the grey PCM connector and they are grounded but the G/O wire is not

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Actually, I'm not sure if the G/O wire is grounded or not, I used my multimeter to test it on continuity mode and put one terminal to negative on the battery and one to the G/O wire - got no continuity. I also checked the continuity of the G/O wire to the frame grounds - no continuity. Then I tried my test light and hooked the alligator clip up to the positive terminal of the battery and put it to the G/O wire in the plug and the test light lit up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

G/O should read above ground so that is okay.    I will see what else I can find that is keeping the 12 VDC from getting the shift solenoid 

 

Out of here for the night

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
7 minutes ago, Melatv said:

G/O should read above ground so that is okay.    I will see what else I can find that is keeping the 12 VDC from getting the shift solenoid 

 

Out of here for the night

Alright thanks for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

HI: This morning I ran a test on a TRX420 FPA  --- connected my special tester to the Shift solenoid -- with the solenoid connected it was reading 12 VDC when the Up button was pushed -- with the solenoid disconnected and pushing the Up button it was reading 4 VDC  and the ATV display started flashing -- so the solenoid has to be connected to read 12 VDC --- the PCM has to see a closed loop or it will fault.

( ATV wasn't running when I did the test)

Edited by Melatv

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
4 hours ago, Melatv said:

HI: This morning I ran a test on a TRX420 FPA  --- connected my special tester to the Shift solenoid -- with the solenoid connected it was reading 12 VDC when the Up button was pushed -- with the solenoid disconnected and pushing the Up button it was reading 4 VDC  and the ATV display started flashing -- so the solenoid has to be connected to read 12 VDC --- the PCM has to see a closed loop or it will fault.

( ATV wasn't running when I did the test)

 

I have been measuring my voltage with the solenoid connected. I just sharpened one of my multimeter probes so I could poke it into the wire to read the voltage without disconnecting the solenoid. You reckon my PCM is bad? It was throwing the code 15 with two different PCMs but I got them both used from Power Sports Nation so I guess it's possible they both could have failed in the same way. Or the solenoid could be bad maybe but it passed all the tests in the FSM. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi: Where you did the repair at the Green connector for the Up/Dn switch -- with just the Key on (kill switch is in center) test for 5 VDC  on the W/Bu as you push the Up button --- if so or not -- just touch the W/R & W/Bu together to see if it will shift.

Edited by Melatv

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
51 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Hi: Where you did the repair at the Green connector for the Up/Dn switch -- with just the Key on (kill switch is in center) test for 5 VDC  on the W/Bu as you push the Up button --- if so or not -- just touch the W/R & W/Bu together to see if it will shift.

 

I am getting 5VDC on the W/Bu wire when I push the up button with the key on. I touched the W/Bu and W/R wires together with the key on and nothing happened.

 

I don't know if this is normal but the gearshift indicator just displays a solid "-" when I turn the key on as well. The Neutral light is lit up green though. The gearshift indicator only switches to "N" after I start it and let it run for a few seconds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Unplug the shift solenoid and connect 12 VDC to the solenoid -- did it shift?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
11 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Unplug the shift solenoid and connect 12 VDC to the solenoid -- did it shift?

 

Just gives me a code 15 and doesn't shift with the solenoid unplugged and the atv running. The solenoid clicks when I put 12v to it though. I have a power probe, should i plug the solenoid up and put 12v to the Y/Bl wire with it using the power probe and then check if it shifts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

NO don't use the power probe -- is the oil level ok -- check it go to section 4 page 4-11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
11 minutes ago, Melatv said:

NO don't use the power probe -- is the oil level ok -- check it go to section 4 page 4-11

 

The oil is a little over full. I put a little over 4 quarts of supertech 10w-30 4 stroke oil from walmart in it. I checked the oil filter as well to make sure it wasn't in backwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

We have to find why the 12 Volts is not getting to the shift solenoid -- shove the meter test lead in alongside the Bl/R wire on the Ign. coil -- other test lead on neg. of battery -- turn

key on and let the fuel pump what is the voltage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Okay -- Go to the PCM and unplug the 5 pin black connector Key on an check the R/W wire to one of the Green wires you should read 12 VDC

 

Key off -- Also while you are there check PCM for any bent pins -- also check the both PCM connectors (Bl & Gr) to see if all the female pins are even with the front of the connector have may not all be push in from the back.

Edited by Melatv

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Okay -- Go to the PCM and unplug the 5 pin black connector an check the R/W wire to one of the Green wires you should read 12 VDC

 

Also while you are there check PCM for any bent pins -- also check the both PCM connectors (Bl & Gr) to see if all the female pins are even with the front of the connector have may not all be push in from the back.

 

I get 12VDC if I put it to the big green wire but I don't get anything if I put it to the green wire that goes to the shift motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

That right for the voltage test -- keep digging got to be a find

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
38 minutes ago, Melatv said:

That right for the voltage test -- keep digging got to be a find

 

OK I finally got this thing to shift. I used a whole can of contact cleaner on the PCM connectors and pushed them on as hard as I could and nothing changed so I used a rubber mallet and gave them a few 'love taps' onto the PCM and it finally started shifting. I guess the connectors weren't fully seating before, or maybe the female y/bl connector is pulled out slightly so it wasn't making a full connection? I can shift up to third now with it running but no higher, do I need to be moving at a certain speed to get into fourth and fifth?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

That is very good news for both of us -- yes the pins a only held with a very small clip -- so over time they will move back a bit from removing the connectors -- Where to you live

When using Dielectric grease only put it around the edge of the connector where it goes against the seal -- that grease is non-conductive -- some of the pins only have 5 volt on them so keep it off the pins -- was a good workout with you -- 76 years old and still at it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...