Jump to content
shadetree

putting b2100 back together

Recommended Posts

got tractor halves back together, changed hydro oil filter, got all lines attached back together with all new o-rings, pulled lower hydro oil pick up screen, looks a tad nasty ?!..lol. got it all washed out/off, installed back in. called it a night.

IMG_0550.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Do you plan on checking that screen every so often after you've completed this job ? Cause i wouldn't think there would be much oli loss... Even so... I'd check very often... If you recall jeeps 2640.... It basically has that same screen.... Same setup our 30 has... You'll loose some, but well worth the loss... To keep a check... Especially being it's a hydrostatic system.... We had a 6620 ...bine had all kinds of drive problems due to a pickup (pre cleaner) that oddly enough is not mention in the big bible book as an item to checked at routine maintenance ntervals .....  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
36 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Do you plan on checking that screen every so often after you've completed this job ? Cause i wouldn't think there would be much oli loss... Even so... I'd check very often... If you recall jeeps 2640.... It basically has that same screen.... Same setup our 30 has... You'll loose some, but well worth the loss... To keep a check... Especially being it's a hydrostatic system.... We had a 6620 ...bine had all kinds of drive problems due to a pickup (pre cleaner) that oddly enough is not mention in the big bible book as an item to checked at routine maintenance ntervals .....  

yep , I told Shade' about catastrophic hydraulic / hydrostatic failure  , I have seen it so many times , when a system trashes out , the particles never seem to go away , ( even if you split the case for say like a atv and clean everything you think you can  )  , them particles keep coming back and taking it out  , over and over --- I wouldn't doubt them new hydrostatic parts are pitted up already  ---- while it is still running is a good time to send it to auction or a for sale sign 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

yep , I told Shade' about catastrophic hydraulic / hydrostatic failure  , I have seen it so many times , when a system trashes out , the particles never seem to go away , ( even if you split the case for say like a atv and clean everything you think you can  )  , them particles keep coming back and taking it out  , over and over --- I wouldn't doubt them new hydrostatic parts are pitted up already  ---- while it is still running is a good time to send it to auction or a for sale sign 

if i could afford a new tractor ?, i'd sell this one, buy a new one. but i'm so broke right now, i can't even pay attention !!..lol.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Do you plan on checking that screen every so often after you've completed this job ? Cause i wouldn't think there would be much oli loss... Even so... I'd check very often... If you recall jeeps 2640.... It basically has that same screen.... Same setup our 30 has... You'll loose some, but well worth the loss... To keep a check... Especially being it's a hydrostatic system.... We had a 6620 ...bine had all kinds of drive problems due to a pickup (pre cleaner) that oddly enough is not mention in the big bible book as an item to checked at routine maintenance ntervals .....  

once you remove that screen ^^^, you drain every bit out, that is where the main part of the hydro oil sits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

got the o-rings to install the hydro tube today, made a sling to support the tractor while i slide it together. used ultra black on the front case, got to wait 24 hrs ( so the package says ? ) to cure before i tighten down the bolts to the case. ordered all new parts, o-rings to rebuild the power steering pump ( it was leaking as well ), i might have time to work on mounting the new tires and rims today ?, if i do , i'll post some pics of those.

IMG_0551.JPG

IMG_0552.JPG

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

update: started out early this morning to mount the new tires, got the front tires mounted without to much trouble, but the rear tires ?, yeah..no way could i mount them !. took them to fleet tire service to let the pro's mount them. well, they mounted them, but both sides of the tires around the tire bead and rim bead were leaking air bad !!. they explained to me this is common for the way they designed this tire. great..i just spent 46 bucks to have them mounted..and they won't hold air ?!. i came back home..made a call to the place that sold me the tires ( priority tire...stay far away from them ! ), after being on hold for about 45 min's ?, this guy wants all kinds of info about the tires ( like he don't have all this right in front of him from the bill of sale ? ), he emailed me a long list of what they need to see if the tires are bad from the factory ?..fine..i'll do what he ask. 

I took lots of pics, when i got done, sent all this info to him. he had told me earlier on the phone..it can take up to two weeks to hear back from the manufacture ?!..wth. thier website clearly states, NO RETURNS IF TIRE HAS BEEN MOUNTED !!..UMM..HOW THE BLEEDING HECK ARE WE SUPPOSE TO KNOW THE TIRE IS BAD UNLESS ITS BEEN MOUNTED I ASK HIM ?..HE REPLIED..GOOD POINT !.  sooo..after making some phone calls..i decided it was cheaper just to have tubes installed in the tires..call it a done deal..so thats what i did. it would have cost me about 300 bucks to have these bad tires shipped back to priority tire  !!!. yeah..it was cheaper to just have tubes put in the tires.

I just sent them an email with a bill of sale of what it cost to have tubes put in the tires, asking them to give me that back, and we'll call it a done deal, lets see if they honor that ?. my money says they won't !. i also told them if they don't ?, they will not like what i'll have to say about this tire and thier company !!!..lol. anyway, here is the new shoes mounted on my baby !. p.s. i've included two pics of the tires leaking after spraying them down with soapy water, you can see how bad they leaked !.

IMG_0579.JPG

IMG_0580.JPG

IMG_0553.JPG

IMG_0566.JPG

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I think I would  have had them glued them to the rim with  black tire glue  >>>>  new tire and new rim  , I think  it would have worked  >>>  $15 for 32 ounces was enough to  do both tires ---- I was always one to never  put a tube in a dirt machine tire , unless the tire is junk  on it's last leg , them tubes can come back to haunt you 

 

image.png

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

I think I would  have had them glued them to the rim with  black tire glue  >>>>  new tire and new rim  , I think  it would have worked  >>>  $15 for 32 ounces was enough to  do both tires ---- I was always one to never  put a tube in a dirt machine tire , unless the tire is junk  on it's last leg , them tubes can come back to haunt you 

 

image.png

That's what we use at the shop I work at and works very nicely.  When we get a slow leaker in the first thing we check is for a bead leak, if found we tear it down, wire brush the rim where the tire bead seats, then spread the bead sealer on.  Works everytime......

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 hours ago, bcsman said:

That's what we use at the shop I work at and works very nicely.  When we get a slow leaker in the first thing we check is for a bead leak, if found we tear it down, wire brush the rim where the tire bead seats, then spread the bead sealer on.  Works everytime......

why would i need to brush down a brand new kubota rim ?, and why would a brand new tire leak ?..because its a bad tire design..thats why !. if i had old rusty rims, used tires ?..then yeah...this glue would have been the way to go. but when you have new everything ?..then it should not leak at all !.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Just got an email from the folks i purchased these tires from, they '' claim '' they are going to refund me back the cost of the tubes i pruchased to use these rear tires ?, we'll see how that pans out. i will give them credit for doing this..if they do it ??..lol.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

update: can confirm, priority tire did refund me the cost of the two tubes i had to purchase in order to keep using the rear tires instead of shipping them back, good on them i guess ?, i will give them this credit for stepping up, making it '' some what '' right. got a call from my local tractor dealership, some parts came in for the power steering, but not all of them !, one part is discontinued, so they had to re-order another part from the parts list ( it showes two different part numbers, same part use ). they said i '' should '' have it in a couple days ?. we'll see how that goes. as for the parts i did get in, i installed everything but one o-ring, and could not figure out where it went ?. i looked at the fich parts break down when i placed the parts order, but i had no idea where it all went ?. logic went right out the window for me..lol. as you can see in the following pic, it's listed as part number # 120, right below part number # 170. # 170 is a teflon seal ( i found this info on a WSM=work service manual ). the manual say's to cut the teflon seal, remove it, then remove the o-ring under it ?..well..this explains why i could not see where this o-ring went ?!..i did not cut my teflon seal, nor did i even order it ?, as i thought the o-ring just placed on the screw ram ?, nope..it goes under the teflon seal i found out !. so for now, as always..i am waiting on parts. 

 

I spent some time out in the shop last night trying to make some kinda way for the rear rops bar to fold ?, its not as easy as i had planned ?..lol. but i have not tossed the idea yet !..lol. i may end up either removing it all together ?, or cutting it shorter, then welding or bolting plates to it to fasten it back together ?. i'll probably go with cutting, then bolting it back together ?. the problem i am having is, once i have it loaded on my trailer ?, i can't back my trailer under my carport i have at the cabin ?, its too tall, this rops hits the underside of the carport if i try to keep my trailer off to the very side of carport. so i was trying to come up with a way to make it fit under the carport, all while my tractor is loaded on my trailer. once i come up with a final idea ?, i'll post some pic's of what i did.

IMG_0583.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Check out the rops how it folds down  on my Husqvarna MZ54  , I took my rops  off cause I go under trees a lot , only difference in the video is  I have a Kohler in mine  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
12 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Check out the rops how it folds down  on my Husqvarna MZ54  , I took my rops  off cause I go under trees a lot , only difference in the video is  I have a Kohler in mine  

 

yep..i'd like to make it so i can fold my tractor rops down as well, only problem i have right now is..i don't have any large enough size flat metal to make the brackets out of ?, and i need to have the pins, bolts, what not on hand before i go drilling holes into anything. be warned : if you have anything new and under warranty ?..DO NOT DRILL HOLES INTO THE MACHINE ON THE ROPS IF THEY ARE NOT ALREADY THERE ??..THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY !!!.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Do you'll have a metal recyclers over there --- down here , at some of them you can shop the metal in the piles and they will sell it to you cheap , by the pound  ---

 

You don't have to worry about the  warranty ------   take the ROPS off if it is really a problem for you 

 

I would love to put my ROPS back on and make a " shade " top for it  LOL -- but I would have to cut some trees , which I like hanging low --- I remember when I first got it , I hit a tree limb and it almost threw me off 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
On 3/30/2023 at 6:04 AM, Fishfiles said:

Do you'll have a metal recyclers over there --- down here , at some of them you can shop the metal in the piles and they will sell it to you cheap , by the pound  ---

 

You don't have to worry about the  warranty ------   take the ROPS off if it is really a problem for you 

 

I would love to put my ROPS back on and make a " shade " top for it  LOL -- but I would have to cut some trees , which I like hanging low --- I remember when I first got it , I hit a tree limb and it almost threw me off 

 

after spending a few hrs on the rops bar, i found out quickly it would not just fold down the way i wanted it to ?, soo..i just cut it lower , welded a plate to the top side, made it where i could just remove two bolts from both sides, pull the top all the way off if i need to. i'm pretty sure it will be low enough to leave on my trailer while i park the trailer under the carport. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
12 hours ago, shadetree said:

after spending a few hrs on the rops bar, i found out quickly it would not just fold down the way i wanted it to ?, soo..i just cut it lower , welded a plate to the top side, made it where i could just remove two bolts from both sides, pull the top all the way off if i need to. i'm pretty sure it will be low enough to leave on my trailer while i park the trailer under the carport. 

Good deal.  Glad you got something going.   ——— I had another brain fart but I was too late.  I was thinking to cut the ROPS and make a peg / spike on one side ( top) and a hole/ socket on the other side ( bottom ) and a quick snap hitch pin could have been used.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Glad i re read over this had some thoughts on those ropes but after seeing this again... The danger i though might be there ? Nah....not worth a mention ... Anyways... Ha! Now we won't be able to say shade atv mechanic on wheels... Lol. Glad you got her sorted...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I had to take that crap off of the zero turn.  My yard is completely flat, but that thing kept getting caught on my crepe myrtles when I was trying to mow around them, and spun me around a couple of times when it got caught on those trees. LOL

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
21 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I had to take that crap off of the zero turn.  My yard is completely flat, but that thing kept getting caught on my crepe myrtles when I was trying to mow around them, and spun me around a couple of times when it got caught on those trees. LOL

yeah..they tend to hit lower hanging limbs and stuff, i don't have an issue with this ( yet ? ), but i also don't want too either !..lol. i want the roll over protection, but not so much that it hits branches and limbs, or anything else hanging low. sooo..in order to get around some of this problem, i wanted to make it to where the rops bar would fold down when i needed it too ?, but the way they designed this rops ?, it just would not work the way i wanted it too. so i came up with a way to leave it on the tractor..and be able to go under lower hanging problems. i will be taking the tractor to the cabin here in the next few days to clean up the yard where the septic tank was put in ( the guy kinda left it in a mess ), so i'll get some pics posted of it when i get it out of my shop. i still need to get it painted, put some springs back on the clutch and brake levers ?, then it '' should '' be done ?. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...