Jump to content
TRX Student

1995 fourtrax 300 4x4 rebuild

Recommended Posts

Yeah you can paint the entire motor if ya wish. Engine paint (for cars) works pretty good if you can find it locally. Whatever ya use should be heat resistant to 500 degrees F or higher and withstand exposure to oil and exposure to gasoline for brief periods without breaking down.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

i paint my motors all the time, krylon silver paint from wally world, has stuck pretty good so far. you will need to clean the engine of all crud before you paint it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
12 hours ago, retro said:

Yeah you can paint the entire motor if ya wish. Engine paint (for cars) works pretty good if you can find it locally. Whatever ya use should be heat resistant to 500 degrees F or higher and withstand exposure to oil and exposure to gasoline for brief periods without breaking down.

OK, will buy some paint this weekend, lets do this!

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

This is a photo of the intake valve off the ruined head. I decided to take the valves out to practice once I’m ready to relap the valves on the good head. The stem seals look fine, too. It’s really too bad the exhaust side snapped off.

62DFE589-121B-40B9-B4DA-444A1F43F4A5.jpeg

5584CC19-5A33-420E-931C-994FDAC8081A.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
10 hours ago, shadetree said:

i paint my motors all the time, krylon silver paint from wally world, has stuck pretty good so far. you will need to clean the engine of all crud before you paint it.

What techniques/tools do you use to clean the fins, and in between, on the motors?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I use an acid, aluminum brightner, can't get it at napa, but a trucking company would have some. It's industrial cleaner.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 minute ago, TBRider said:

I use an acid, aluminum brightner, can't get it at napa, but a trucking company would have some. It's industrial cleaner.

Think canadian tire would have some ? lol....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

They might have something like it, probably not as strong as my stuff, but they do have acidic cleaners there, just dont leave it on too long, and wet the surface before using the acid,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
16 hours ago, TRX Student said:

PSN arrived

purple paper is a nice touch.

feel pretty silly, thought I spotted Honda wheel caps. Turned out to be a Yamaha and Polaris wheel center caps. Dang.

80C5E8CE-9CB0-4F4F-A84E-096BBA4A728C.jpeg

55DA4368-2C99-4BF3-9C1F-3F2070A7F6FB.jpeg

DDE351A3-956D-4A5F-A67F-8ABA79590BA5.jpeg

 

You know, I ordered bolts from an 08 Rubicon a while back, and when I went through the stuff this past weekend there were two Honda caps and a dang Polaris cap in mine too. 

 

Wonder if they're getting sloppy with the disassembly bits?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 minute ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

You know, I ordered bolts from an 08 Rubicon a while back, and when I went through the stuff this past weekend there were two Honda caps and a dang Polaris cap in mine too. 

 

Wonder if they're getting sloppy with the disassembly bits?

I think its for selling purposes. Neither of the caps in the pictures I saw were facing forward, so I had no way of knowing they weren't honda. I suspect its done on purpose. Increases the perceived value of the buy. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

You know, I ordered bolts from an 08 Rubicon a while back, and when I went through the stuff this past weekend there were two Honda caps and a dang Polaris cap in mine too. 

 

Wonder if they're getting sloppy with the disassembly bits?

I'm curious, because I dont want to turn into a harvey spooner hoarder (check out on youtube lol) but did you order the bolts because you are working on a rubicon? Or did you see something you wanted and nabbed it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 minute ago, TRX Student said:

I'm curious, because I dont want to turn into a harvey spooner hoarder (check out on youtube lol) but did you order the bolts because you are working on a rubicon? Or did you see something you wanted and nabbed it.

Well, I'm a hoarder LOL.   I honestly don't remember exactly why I ordered it.  If I had to guess I got it when I was putting the Rubicon I have back together.  It needed a new frame (swingarm bolts stripped) and wiring harness (kept throwing error codes). 

 

You do have to look closely at the bolt lots.  Some of them have TONS of good stuff, and some of them have very little. 

 

When you price out new parts, 4 center caps, Rubicon lug nuts, and the bolts that hold the disc brake dust covers to the knuckle, you're already at what a bolt lot from PSN costs.  In my case, I only got 3 Honda caps, and 8 of the lug nuts, but still not a bad deal.  I normally buy the bolt lots when PSN has a sale.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Just now, jeepwm69 said:

Well, I'm a hoarder LOL.   I honestly don't remember exactly why I ordered it.  If I had to guess I got it when I was putting the Rubicon I have back together.  It needed a new frame (swingarm bolts stripped) and wiring harness (kept throwing error codes). 

 

You do have to look closely at the bolt lots.  Some of them have TONS of good stuff, and some of them have very little. 

 

When you price out new parts, 4 center caps, Rubicon lug nuts, and the bolts that hold the disc brake dust covers to the knuckle, you're already at what a bolt lot from PSN costs.  In my case, I only got 3 Honda caps, and 8 of the lug nuts, but still not a bad deal.  I normally buy the bolt lots when PSN has a sale.

Literally combing through PSN and see another bolt lot with a center cap facing away, looks like the polaris one I have

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6 hours ago, TRX Student said:

What techniques/tools do you use to clean the fins, and in between, on the motors?

 

I start with a completely degreased and dry cylinder and head. You can use a strong degreaser detergent to get the majority of the baked on gunk off. Then I switch to Eagle One Etching Mag Cleaner which is an acid based wheel cleaner. I use stiff plumbers brushes to clean between the cooling fins while keeping the aluminum wet with the acid cleaner. Then rinse well with water, blow them dry and rinse again using 90% rubbing alcohol to prep them for paint.

 

Note that acid-based cleaners convert bright aluminum castings to a darker shade of grey. If you're not going to paint your parts you may want to use something else like a soft blasting media on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

It depends on the part that is receiving the lube... on camshaft lobes and lifters I smear some Molybdenum grease (containing 8% Moly minimum) on them. On ball and roller bearings I just use motor oil. Bronze bushings receive either motor oil or synthetic grease depending on the part and its location. All rubber seal lips get packed with synthetic bearing grease regardless of their location. Change clutch discs and centrifugal clutch weights get soaked in motor oil. The oil pump is filled with motor oil generally unless the motor will sit on a shelf for several months. Then I'll usually smear some Moly grease on the oil pump gears during assembly, to be sure that the oil pump will self-prime right away on initial startup. Driveshaft splines (external of the motor cases) receive Moly grease. All bolts and nuts receive either motor oil or grease depending on where they are.... unless they require a threadlocker. The piston, rings & wrist pin get soaked down with motor oil then I turn the piston upside down to allow the excess oil to drain out of the ring grooves. The bore gets coated with motor oil after it is scrubbed clean in hot soapy water to remove grit from the honed surface. Rocker arms, pushrods, cam chain and most other moving parts get wetted down with motor oil as well.

 

I do not ever use an engine assembly lube, never have in my entire life.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
10 hours ago, retro said:

It depends on the part that is receiving the lube... on camshaft lobes and lifters I smear some Molybdenum grease (containing 8% Moly minimum) on them. On ball and roller bearings I just use motor oil. Bronze bushings receive either motor oil or synthetic grease depending on the part and its location. All rubber seal lips get packed with synthetic bearing grease regardless of their location. Change clutch discs and centrifugal clutch weights get soaked in motor oil. The oil pump is filled with motor oil generally unless the motor will sit on a shelf for several months. Then I'll usually smear some Moly grease on the oil pump gears during assembly, to be sure that the oil pump will self-prime right away on initial startup. Driveshaft splines (external of the motor cases) receive Moly grease. All bolts and nuts receive either motor oil or grease depending on where they are.... unless they require a threadlocker. The piston, rings & wrist pin get soaked down with motor oil then I turn the piston upside down to allow the excess oil to drain out of the ring grooves. The bore gets coated with motor oil after it is scrubbed clean in hot soapy water to remove grit from the honed surface. Rocker arms, pushrods, cam chain and most other moving parts get wetted down with motor oil as well.

 

I do not ever use an engine assembly lube, never have in my entire life.

Thank you for a thorough, detailed, honest no bullsh*t reply. Every time I go into an auto store I always keep an eye out for assembly lube. I've watched a lot of youtubers use it. Can never find any. Knowing you don't use any, ever, makes the job easier. I'm about to dig deeper into the motor this weekend to get to the cam chain. Not just a stem seal and valve lap job anymore. Want this 300 running mint when I'm done.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I bought SuperClean at Canadian tire to clean most of my stuff. Really strong; wear gloves... You let it react a little bit and clean away. Also brake cleaner works nice

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
3 hours ago, TRX Student said:

Every time I go into an auto store I always keep an eye out for assembly lube. I've watched a lot of youtubers use it.

 

Ya, the problem I have with wasting money on engine assembly lubes is that there is no such thing as a "one product suits all" solution in a bottle. For instance, a good assembly lube must contain a minimum of 8% Molybdenum (Moly is a solid lubricant consisting of particles suspended in a grease or oil carrier) to be suitable for flat tappet camshaft components. While you don't dare to apply that same product on a main or rod bearing cause it will tear up the new bearing. And If the product is suitable for use on a bearing then it is unsuitable for use almost everywhere else. :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
4 hours ago, machinecrook said:

I bought SuperClean at Canadian tire to clean most of my stuff. Really strong; wear gloves... You let it react a little bit and clean away. Also brake cleaner works nice

haha..I buy super clean from wally world, your correct..do not use it bare hands ! ( I do though..lol ) its acid base !.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Don’t have the chain, dove in anyway. Found some bits that look scary. What do you guys think?

the screen was super clean, the pieces of metal are worrisome, found underneath the screen. What about the scratches on the right clutch?

6B65F460-44C9-4691-85FC-4F0E38ED3BCA.jpeg

FC3D0C0C-B282-4ED5-BD63-2C09AFC16F95.jpeg

24371B53-B639-4353-8A3A-7BDB8C591FD3.jpeg

692DF994-16ED-4EEA-B0BF-EFC777ED9357.jpeg

9F269E5B-17A4-4246-AC11-B69703D57901.jpeg

9B3A9692-FC8C-4F3F-87A3-ADA6ED8BBBF8.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 

case marks is normal, its from casting. rest all looks good to me, other than what looks like rocks on the towel ?..lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...