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BlueJay

Wow, I wish I had known that…

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I wanted to start a thread about general stuff about Honda ATVs that I had wish I had known about. I have gleaned a lot of knowledge from this forum with my foray into the world of ATVs. I have worked on small engines (mowers, go carts, small tractors, etc) most of my life, and maybe it’s the teacher in me (I teach printing technology at a two year tech college), but there are general things that I didn’t realize before I started working on my 2000 “barn find” TRX350ES. Just some general /tips advice from the experienced that I have learned such as:

 

-Don’t use conventional engine oil with a wet clutch - use wet clutch compatible oil only. 

-Don’t use RTV to seal up engine halves/covers - use Hondabond or Yamabond only. 
-Always clean out the crossover tubes when redoing the front brakes (that one I just forgot, dangit!).

 

Please add some “aha” thoughts that are unique to Hondas that you wish you had known about or learned along the way that might not be “common knowledge”. Hopefully a good place for newbies like me to get a jump start. Thanks.

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Make sure the change clutch plates aren't loose in the basket before you put the cover back on.

Make sure the clutch adjustment screw isn't seized before putting the cover back on

Make sure the gear position switch is pointing at the N on the switch and machine is in neutral before putting cover back on

Don't overtighten steel bolts in aluminum engines, especially the drain plug on the 05-11 Foremans and 420 Ranchers.

Don't use chinese parts.  Used OEM is better than new chyna parts

If a machine won't start, always check the off/on/off switch on the left handlebar FIRST.  That one has gotten me several times.  You feel really stupid when you start taking a machine apart and replacing parts when it was the stupid on/off switch being in the off position.

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Lets talk about motor oil drain plug bolts and oil filters.... every now and then someone will install an oil filter backwards which results in extensive motor damage due to no oil circulation/oil pressure.

 

Another issue I see a bit more often is a missing motor oil drain bolt sealing washer, which generally results in oil seeping out around the drain plug. Those missing washers are noticed right away.... seems like around my community cattle rancher's and farmer's Honda's are always missing that washer when the machine gets to my place needing a repair. Sometimes the washer sticks to the crankcase when the drain plug is removed, then falls into the oil drain pan while they're not looking I guess...? So I keep those washers on hand (lots of oil & filters too) and I change the oil & filter and put a new washer on the drain plug whenever I work on one of those (usually neglected and abused) rancher/farmer machines.

 

washers.png

 

The Honda sealing washers are stamped out of a sheet at the factory, so they each are flat on one side and crown-shaped on the other side... install the crown-shaped side of the washer (the crankcase is sometimes flycut for the drain plug bolt and has a chamfer in the aluminum) against the crankcase with the flat side against the oil drain plug bolt. With the washer installed with the crown-shaped side sealing against the crankcase the washer is less likely to stick in the flycut crankcase chamfer the next time the drain plug bolt is removed.

 

Final note: Do not overtighten the oil drain plug bolt or you'll risk breaking the case inside and/or stripping the threads in the aluminum. Don't ever overtighten any other bolt on the machine either.

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29 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Don’t buy a Hondamatic  or a ES shift. Lol. 

 

Wow, you're channeling shadetree these days LOL

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16 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Wow, you're channeling shadetree these days LOL

I learned from the best >>>>>>    LOL 

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Batteries

Personally , I have come to believe , from keeping the battery manufacturers in business , that if you keep your battery on a tender /

maintainer , it will last longer than if not 

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

Batteries

Personally , I have come to believe , from keeping the battery manufacturers in business , that if you keep your battery on a tender /

maintainer , it will last longer than if not 

 

I have two Optima Red Tops that have FINALLY died.  Dad tried both of them on his tractor yesterday and neither had enough juice to turn it over.

 

I've kept them on tenders during the winter every year for the past 6-8 years.

 

The last Optima Red Top I bought was in 2009..........

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One of the things I have done with mowers and now my ATV is to always disconnect the ground cable in between use's to eliminate parasitic drain. Up until Interstate Batteries went to crap the last couple of years I would have batteries last 5 years or more which is good for a mower battery.

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Popular thread (thumbs up) might make a good sticky ..... I'll add hondline parts are just going to keep going up in price....i wish i had know that fact long time back ... Lol! 

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While we’re talking batteries.  I’d like to bring it up. To never buy a Duracell battery from Batteries And Bulbs. They policy is , if the battery comes in for warranty and it has less than 10 volts.  They consider it not maintained properly on a tender and will not warranty it.  Even when in the warranty time frame.  Not sure if this is nation wide or just the  Slidell store. But it happened to me and a buddy.  You can buy the same battery from Sam’s Wholesale.  I say a battery can short out and show less than 10 volts while using a tender.  

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