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adam

TRX350 FE Full rebuild!

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9 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:


looks to be the newer style.

 

 

Yeah perfect - just ordered it.

 

Here we go, momentum! 😄 

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Hey guys,

Just need a bit of advice on this.. installing the front lower arm and torquing the bolts to the specified 44 Nm, there is no free-play on the pivot point. It does however have a bit of a spring action (returning to where it starts). Does this sound right or should it be free swinging? Also, it doesn't specify grease on the pivot bolt.. though this would be required due to friction?

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You leave the nuts of the a-arms loose , put everything together ,  then lower the atv to the ground on it's wheels with the weight of the atv on the suspension , then tighten the nuts and bolts ----  I looked at a copy of the service manual from the list here on the site  for your atv and page 12-20 was missing , might have been where that procedure was 

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Hey guys,

Couple of questions...

 

When tightening the swingarm pivot lock nut, is there an alternative to purchasing the tool (see link)?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262698830520?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=8uuBLBV_Q4y&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=TdxnQh9FQ26&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You need to hold the pivot bolt while the lock nut is tightened and I can't think of any other method....

 

Also, does anyone recognise these bits?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

20230528_163402.jpg

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On 5/28/2023 at 3:58 AM, adam said:

Hey guys,

Couple of questions...

 

When tightening the swingarm pivot lock nut, is there an alternative to purchasing the tool (see link)?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262698830520?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=8uuBLBV_Q4y&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=TdxnQh9FQ26&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You need to hold the pivot bolt while the lock nut is tightened and I can't think of any other method....

 

Also, does anyone recognise these bits?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

20230528_163402.jpg

 

Those are your lower motor mounts and bolts.  The top two bigs slide up in the holes in the engine casings, and the bolts and spacers go through the mounts.

 

As for the swingarm bolts, some people take a socket and cut it out to fit the lock nut.  I just bought the tool but I'm messing with machines constantly so it made sense to just get the proper tool.

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13 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Those are your lower motor mounts and bolts.  The top two bigs slide up in the holes in the engine casings, and the bolts and spacers go through the mounts.

 

As for the swingarm bolts, some people take a socket and cut it out to fit the lock nut.  I just bought the tool but I'm messing with machines constantly so it made sense to just get the proper tool.

 

Thanks mate for clearing that up.

I made a tool like you described to remove it in the first place but I don't think it will hold up on tightening.

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9 hours ago, adam said:

 

Thanks mate for clearing that up.

I made a tool like you described to remove it in the first place but I don't think it will hold up on tightening.

 

When removing that swingarm bolt I always got by with just using a 17mm hex and breaking it loose.  I only use the tool to tighten the nut up.  You don't have to torque that lock nut down super tight either.  Looks like 74ft lbs on my 500's, and I would think that would be the same for all of them using that design.

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G'day fellas,

 

I've turned my attention to reassembling the engine as I received the replacement shift drum the other day.
How do you feel about the sludge on the walls? What has caused this? Should I bother cleaning most of it off or maybe run an engine flush through it once it's rebuilt?

 

Also, take a look at the shift drum.. there is a fair bit more wear on the replacement than the original one. Do you think this would be an issue?

 

Cheers legends!

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I normally clean my cases out thoroughly with cans of starter fluid.  No longer cheap but does a good job.

 

Is that baked on oil or ???. Looks different than anything I’ve found in an engine.

 

That drum looks ok to me.  I’d spin it and and forth a few times with everything in the center back in place, but before complete reassembly, were it mine.

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21 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I normally clean my cases out thoroughly with cans of starter fluid.  No longer cheap but does a good job.

 

Is that baked on oil or ???. Looks different than anything I’ve found in an engine.

 

That drum looks ok to me.  I’d spin it and and forth a few times with everything in the center back in place, but before complete reassembly, were it mine.

Thanks for the advice! I think it is baked on oil. The piston top is pretty black and cooked also..

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Can I get an ID on this guy by any chance? 

20230611_164343.jpg

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https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2002/trx350fe-2a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4-es/gearshift-drum

 

#12.  That's the pin that the shift return spring goes over, and when shifting it puts tension on that spring, and pulls the drum to the proper place.

 

Not sure that I described that very well, but it's just a pin that part of the gear linkage slides over.  If it isn't broken off or missing, it's good.

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17 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2002/trx350fe-2a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4-es/gearshift-drum

 

#12.  That's the pin that the shift return spring goes over, and when shifting it puts tension on that spring, and pulls the drum to the proper place.

 

Not sure that I described that very well, but it's just a pin that part of the gear linkage slides over.  If it isn't broken off or missing, it's good.

 

Thanks for that..

 

No doubt you'll be fielding plenty of questions as I piece the puzzle back together!

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I need to replace an oil filter screen 15421-HN5-671... 

 

These are discontinued and the only ones I can find are used and will cost AU$60 ... 

 

Can anyone suggest an alternative or know of a different model that might work? Or and other options?

 

Cheers guys

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21 minutes ago, adam said:

I need to replace an oil filter screen 15421-HN5-671... 

 

These are discontinued and the only ones I can find are used and will cost AU$60 ... 

 

Can anyone suggest an alternative or know of a different model that might work? Or and other options?

 

Cheers guys

 

Maybe I could manufacture one?

16866463833184697761137582259779.jpg

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Just now, jeepwm69 said:

 

Have you checked to see if Powersportsnation will ship to you?  They're good to go for used parts, at least for those of us in the US.

 

You don't need filtering media.  It's just a fine screen.

 

https://www.powersportsnation.com/honda-rancher-350-oil-filter-screen-15421-hn5-671.html

 

If they won't ship to you directly, I'll bet that screen will easily go in a padded envelope.  I could order it and forward onto you.

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8 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

If they won't ship to you directly, I'll bet that screen will easily go in a padded envelope.  I could order it and forward onto you.

That would be great 👍 I'll message you...

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So guys I'm putting the crank case back together but just want to check when you think it would be possible to test the gearbox operates ok. Everything is back in place but I just want to be sure the gearing works properly before I seal it and bolt it all up. What method is used for testing/running through gears?

 

Cheers 

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On 8/19/2023 at 5:55 AM, adam said:

So guys I'm putting the crank case back together but just want to check when you think it would be possible to test the gearbox operates ok. Everything is back in place but I just want to be sure the gearing works properly before I seal it and bolt it all up. What method is used for testing/running through gears?

 

Cheers 

 

I normally leave the clutch stuff off the front of the shift drum, and spin the change clutch by hand, which should turn over all of the engine stuff (crank, transmission etc).  While you're spinning the engine over by hand, you should be able to easily turn the shift drum and shift into different gears, then back.  If that works, then put the shift linkage stuff back on the front of the shift drum and seal it up.

 

Does that make sense the way I described it?

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8 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

I normally leave the clutch stuff off the front of the shift drum, and spin the change clutch by hand, which should turn over all of the engine stuff (crank, transmission etc).  While you're spinning the engine over by hand, you should be able to easily turn the shift drum and shift into different gears, then back.  If that works, then put the shift linkage stuff back on the front of the shift drum and seal it up.

 

Does that make sense the way I described it?

 

With both halves still separated and the gears exposed? 

 

I have manually rotated the shift drum and it seems to change through gears fine - however I can't tell what gear it's in, and reverse, etc. just to confirm each gear selection is successful. 

 

 

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14 hours ago, adam said:

 

With both halves still separated and the gears exposed? 

 

I have manually rotated the shift drum and it seems to change through gears fine - however I can't tell what gear it's in, and reverse, etc. just to confirm each gear selection is successful. 

 

 

 

Yeah, you can do it on the bench with the cases still separated.  Just tilt the engine back a hair to keep everything in place.  If it shifts through all the gears while spinning the transmission gears over, then you should be good to go.  If you don't get the gears in there right it will hang up on you. 

 

You should be able to tell neutral because all the gears will spin but the output shaft either won't be spinning.  You might have to hold it with one hand while you spin things over with your other hand, as sometimes the shaft will spin from minor friction, but can easily be held in place if you grab the output shaft.

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I've back tracked a little and decided to tear down a little further to clean more of the old sludge out of the case. 

Should I use a press (as directed in manual) to remove the crankshaft/balancer assembly or would a good whack with a hammer knock it out?

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I usually use a block of wood and a deadblow hammer. 

 

That said, when you knock the crank out, the rear bearing on the crank will stay with the crank, so make sure you have a bearing puller as that bearing will need to be pulled off of the crank and pressed back into the case before you reinstall the crank.

 

Then putting the crank back into that bearing is best done with a press.

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8 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I usually use a block of wood and a deadblow hammer. 

 

That said, when you knock the crank out, the rear bearing on the crank will stay with the crank, so make sure you have a bearing puller as that bearing will need to be pulled off of the crank and pressed back into the case before you reinstall the crank.

 

Then putting the crank back into that bearing is best done with a press.

Awesome- thanks for the advice!

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