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F250guy carb rebuild. Photos

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On 2/5/2020 at 12:42 PM, F250 guy said:

Ok, question. Should the low speed jet be sitting in the hole this low? Snungged lightly.

IMG_20200205_143927.jpg

Where is the starter? jet and/or passage plug? You have them right? Wanna make sure you don’t forget them

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12 minutes ago, Goober said:

Where is the starter? jet and/or passage plug? You have them right? Wanna make sure you don’t forget them

Put them in and carbs on the wheeler already that was when I was still putting it together last week I think.

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I figured i would chime in on this since I just concurred a two year issue by getting a new carb. You can find the recently active thread on the old forum.

 

What i learned: start with an OEM carb without any rebuild aftermarket parts.  If you need new jets go with Kehin or Honda......*DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET*.  My issue was lean condition at all throttle positions, running hot and backfiring too much. The culprit ended up being the carb and specifically the pilot jet.

 

After talking with the two lead mechanics at Brookhaven Honda I learned that shindy and all other aftermarket jets are notorious for being too small and yielding lean results.

 

Anyway, my encouragement to you @F250 guy buy OEM honda parts for your carb rebuild.

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30 minutes ago, Brantley Foreman said:

I figured i would chime in on this since I just concurred a two year issue by getting a new carb. You can find the recently active thread on the old forum.

 

What i learned: start with an OEM carb without any rebuild aftermarket parts.  If you need new jets go with Kehin or Honda......*DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET*.  My issue was lean condition at all throttle positions, running hot and backfiring too much. The culprit ended up being the carb and specifically the pilot jet.

 

After talking with the two lead mechanics at Brookhaven Honda I learned that shindy and all other aftermarket jets are notorious for being too small and yielding lean results.

 

Anyway, my encouragement to you @F250 guy buy OEM honda parts for your carb rebuild.

I've already got it on but I'll update you when I get it running. Float vent hose cracked. Also need to get an adjuster tool so I don't burn my fingers with the 1/4in socket and screwdriver bit. 

 

It's passed my return time, but I'll keep your words in mind, others have had 0 problems it'll be interesting to hear feedback. 

Edited by F250 guy
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47 minutes ago, Brantley Foreman said:

I figured i would chime in on this since I just concurred a two year issue by getting a new carb. You can find the recently active thread on the old forum.

 

What i learned: start with an OEM carb without any rebuild aftermarket parts.  If you need new jets go with Kehin or Honda......*DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET*.  My issue was lean condition at all throttle positions, running hot and backfiring too much. The culprit ended up being the carb and specifically the pilot jet.

 

After talking with the two lead mechanics at Brookhaven Honda I learned that shindy and all other aftermarket jets are notorious for being too small and yielding lean results.

 

Anyway, my encouragement to you @F250 guy buy OEM honda parts for your carb rebuild.

please know what your talking about concerning shindy kits !, yes..there are bizz's out there that sell FAKE SHINDY KITS !, but i myself, along with many other members here will back shindy up 100% all the way !. i have been restoring honda atvs for 28 years, and in every carb rebuild, i have used shindy rebuild kits, NOT ONE KIT HAS LET ME DOWN !. soooooo..not to rain on your parade ?!, but you need to learn more of your subject before you talk about it :-).

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47 minutes ago, F250 guy said:

I've already got it on but I'll update you when I get it running. Float vent hose cracked. Also need to get an adjuster tool so I don't burn my fingers with the 1/4in socket and screwdriver bit. 

 

It's passed my return time, but I'll keep your words in mind, others have had 0 problems it'll be interesting to hear feedback. 

just set the fuel/air mixture jet before you install the carb, thats all you need to do, if your carb is clean ?, and you put the fuel/air mixture jet in right ?, have it turned out about the right amount of turns ?, there will be no need to reach under the front of the carb to tweak it !. reason: ALL CARBS ARE SET TO RUN LEAN ANYWAY FROM HONDA FACTORY'S !. 2 1/12 turns out from lightly seated is plenty, no need to tweak it from there.

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I haven't had any issues with the shindy kits either but he had 3 different carbs rebuilt with them causing a lean issue for some reason. I can't say what the issue might have been (kit/carb/etc) but there was one, all I know on that subject.

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14 minutes ago, shadetree said:

just set the fuel/air mixture jet before you install the carb, thats all you need to do, if your carb is clean ?, and you put the fuel/air mixture jet in right ?, have it turned out about the right amount of turns ?, there will be no need to reach under the front of the carb to tweak it !. reason: ALL CARBS ARE SET TO RUN LEAN ANYWAY FROM HONDA FACTORY'S !. 2 1/12 turns out from lightly seated is plenty, no need to tweak it from there.

Clean as a whistle, set 2.5 turns already. Guess I can save my $$ but the thought about the tool was good. This fellas input is noted but I 100% don't expect a problem. 

Edited by F250 guy

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8 minutes ago, shadetree said:

just set the fuel/air mixture jet before you install the carb, thats all you need to do, if your carb is clean ?, and you put the fuel/air mixture jet in right ?, have it turned out about the right amount of turns ?, there will be no need to reach under the front of the carb to tweak it !. reason: ALL CARBS ARE SET TO RUN LEAN ANYWAY FROM HONDA FACTORY'S !. 2 1/12 turns out from lightly seated is plenty, no need to tweak it from there.

 

@shadetree,

 

You are the one, about 8 or so years ago, that convinced me to switch to Shindy kits. I used them for 6 rebuilds that are all running fine now. Something has changed with Shindy in the past year or so (IMHO) The last three rebuilds i did on my problem bike were with shindy kits and from 3 different sources (ebay, independent atv shop and honda dealer).  The pilot jets in all the kits has smaller holes.  I measured them today vs the honda jet and sure enough all three pilot jet had smaller holes.

 

So i took that data point and the discussion with the two red Star honda certified mechanics to form my opinion / decision.

 

Also, @shadetree this is the Foreman 450 you and I talked about on the phone several times this summer.  I checked the timing with you on the phone about four times.  Any way it ended up being the shindy pilot jets in three honda OEM carbs.

 

Not trying to start a fight just letting you know why i said what i did. I will be glad to retract my statement if y'all deem it bad advice.

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2 minutes ago, Brantley Foreman said:

 

@shadetree,

 

You are the one, about 8 or so years ago, that convinced me to switch to Shindy kits. I used them for 6 rebuilds that are all running fine now. Something has changed with Shindy in the past year or so (IMHO) The last three rebuilds i did on my problem bike were with shindy kits and from 3 different sources (ebay, independent atv shop and honda dealer).  The pilot jets in all the kits has smaller holes.  I measured them today vs the honda jet and sure enough all three pilot jet had smaller holes.

 

So i took that data point and the discussion with the two red Star honda certified mechanics to form my opinion / decision.

 

Also, @shadetree this is the Foreman 450 you and I talked about on the phone several times this summer.  I checked the timing with you on the phone about four times.  Any way it ended up being the shindy pilot jets in three honda OEM carbs.

 

Not trying to start a fight just letting you know why i said what i did. I will be glad to retract my statement if y'all deem it bad advice.

nah, i wont say every shindy kit is fool proof ?, i'm sure there will be a dud in one or two ?..lol. i just know, unless its a shindy fake kit ?, i have not had any issues with them in all my builds. its all good bro :-).

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10 minutes ago, F250 guy said:

Set 2/1/2 already. Guess I can save my $$ but the thought about the tool was good. This fellas input is noted but I 100% don't expect a problem. 

2 1/2 turns should work out fine. i'd rather them run rich than lean any day !.

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@brantley, there ARE shindy fake kits being sold as the real kits on ebay and the web, some of these kits are made in china !. if it does not say '' made in japan '' on the package ?, i wont trust it !.

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The OEM jets are usually in better condition than the carb casting is on most cleaning jobs anyway.... I never swap an OEM jet out if I can get them clean. Same goes for float valves, a clean OEM valve in good reconditioned condition is better than any new non-OEM valve, Shindy included. But if I gotta swap brass into a Keihin carb for any reason its either OEM or Shindy parts that go back in 'em. The rest of the kits on the market are useless china garbage. There are a lot of Shindy fakes for sale out there too.... its not illegal if/when a chinaman robs ya. But its your own fault when they do. :-)

 

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1 hour ago, retro said:

The OEM jets are usually in better condition than the carb casting is on most cleaning jobs anyway.... I never swap an OEM jet out if I can get them clean. Same goes for float valves, a clean OEM valve in good reconditioned condition is better than any new non-OEM valve, Shindy included. But if I gotta swap brass into a Keihin carb for any reason its either OEM or Shindy parts that go back in 'em. The rest of the kits on the market are useless china garbage. There are a lot of Shindy fakes for sale out there too.... its not illegal if/when a chinaman robs ya. But its your own fault when they do. 🙂

 

@retro you can say the last part again lol.

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I use to have the jet chart showing all the brands and which numbers equaled out to be the same size. I might have to try to find that again, it was kind of handy. 

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2 minutes ago, toodeep said:

I use to have the jet chart showing all the brands and which numbers equaled out to be the same size. I might have to try to find that again, it was kind of handy. 

I wonder where ya can get those? 125 main 85 choke 40 slow jet. But yea I wondered if there ever was a jet sizing guide. 

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Different brands have different numbers on the same size jet. The chart took a little confusion out of it when jetting for mods done to the machine. 

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13 hours ago, retro said:

The OEM jets are usually in better condition than the carb casting is on most cleaning jobs anyway.... I never swap an OEM jet out if I can get them clean. Same goes for float valves, a clean OEM valve in good reconditioned condition is better than any new non-OEM valve, Shindy included. But if I gotta swap brass into a Keihin carb for any reason its either OEM or Shindy parts that go back in 'em. The rest of the kits on the market are useless china garbage. There are a lot of Shindy fakes for sale out there too.... its not illegal if/when a chinaman robs ya. But its your own fault when they do. 🙂

 

Yea butt. If ya run Ethanol crap like I did and the needle doesn't seal, or leaks then magically reseals and repeats, it's a hassle. That's why I'm running Non Ethanol with Seafoam.

 

Looking back I think I may know what done me in. E10 + the amount of alcohol in Seafoam 6% "Wich isn't very much, but may have been enough to go over 15% total. So that's my reason for running Non Ethanol, Sunoco Optima is closest to me. I may be wrong on my reason but I think I'm right. 

 

Yes I know Seafoam is a cleaner maybe I didn't know it was doing its job. But I'll admit when I'd get busy and I'd remember to stabilize fuel I'd eyeball it well maybe I eyeballed a tad to much. But still I'll be happy Non Ethanol and Seafoam measured out. 

Edited by F250 guy

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Update: polished needle seat with q tip n carb spray needle c clip in middle slot, put it on fired it ran it, and the needle is leaking.   Had a video but won't let me post, the picture probably won't show but it's leaking good. Non Ethanol Sunoco 92 octane. I'll get OEM jets and needle valve. 

 

@retro @Brantley Foreman looks like you two are right. 

IMG_20200223_172718.jpg

Edited by F250 guy

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did you clean out the tank and petcock , one speck of rust or trash is all it takes to stick the needle valve -------   did you change the fuel hose , might be deteriorated inside -------  do you have a screen filter between the tank and carb  ----- 

 

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8 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

did you clean out the tank and petcock , one speck of rust or trash is all it takes to stick the needle valve -------   did you change the fuel hose , might be deteriorated inside -------  do you have a screen filter between the tank and carb  ----- 

 

Cleaned everything out, petcock is good, filter in between the tank n carb yes had one. Fuel line is good. 

Edited by F250 guy

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Did you get a new needle valve in the carb kit you bought or you reused the old one

 

 

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29 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Did you get a new needle valve in the carb kit you bought or you reused the old one

 

 

Came with a new one, but I'm gonna give the tank another cleaning to be sure when I get my parts. Sucked with a vaccum cleaner 10 times. But I'll pry the screen out. 

Edited by F250 guy

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My cousin blew up the shop vac sucking trash out a gas tank , be careful of fumes 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

My cousin blew up the shop vac sucking trash out a gas tank , be careful of fumes 

I think ill pry the screen out and return n cheap gas through it. But with us where we do Hey and all sorts of farm things when we fill up ya almost can't avoid dust. Except high humidity days or low wind.

Edited by F250 guy

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