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F250 guy

Steering stem bearing 300 Fourtrax

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Is the bearing and seals in the frame or on the backside of where the inner tie rods bolt up? Got a kit coming Monday and some real photos would be very helpful. 

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They are not fun to change. The level of frustration/ease of removal/install will be usually based on how many things you remove out of your way first. I left everything intact, & had used a 3/8 extension & hammer to beat the old sized one out. 

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12 minutes ago, Wheeler said:

They are not fun to change. The level of frustration/ease of removal/install will be usually based on how many things you remove out of your way first. I left everything intact, & had used a 3/8 extension & hammer to beat the old sized one out. 

So from what I'm making out, pull the steering arm after loosening the inner tie rods then pull the steering shaft out after getting the handlebar out of the way? Wish somebody had a picture so I can understand what I'll be up against.

Edited by F250 guy

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1 hour ago, F250 guy said:

Wish somebody had a picture so I can understand what I'll be up against.

 

The service manual is your best friend when working on your ATV. The parts fiche is your next best friend. We got your back when you forget to invite your two best friends. :-)

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1993/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/steering-shaft

 

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Nevermind the FSM telling ya not to reuse the nuts, the originals are just as good as new ones are. You won't need to readjust the toe either, unless its already out or you replace a tie rod, etc.

 

 

 

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It is an easier job for you with a 2wd then a 4wd , take the steering arm of the end of the steering shaft , you can leave the tie rods attached and push the arm and bars out the way , then you need to "dig"  the snap ring out of the bearing bore , this can be fun if there is a lot of rust involved , on the top end you can get the top bracket which holds the plastic bushing out and back in with out removing the fenders but it is not fun , I unbolt the handle bars from the tree and push them out the way along with the dash  ,  then pull the shaft up , you might have to put the nut back on the ned of the shaft and hit with a dead blow hammer would be my choice , then you come up with a driver to get the bearing knocked out the frame and the new one in with out damaging it , and make sure to get the bearing bottomed out so the retainer clip can be put back in , I would clean the bore where the bearing rides before trying to drive it in 

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Please erase that reply that's blank. What I meant to say was I had 3 questions.

 

1. I don't have a torque wrench, and 51 foot pounds on tie rods? 

 

2. Will I be able to tell the seals apart? 

 

3. Is the collar strong, can I pray it out with a screwdriver and install with an extension? 

 

I'll give it my best go and ask when I get confused next week. 

 

Yes mines 2WD

Edited by F250 guy

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Thanks cause I was already looking up torque wrenches. I got everything up there then socket wise.

Edited by F250 guy

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 the only things I can think of right now ,  that  I use a torque wrench for on my atvs ,  is the head bolts , the pinion nut  and the swing arm pivots and it's and jam nut  

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10 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 the only things I can think of right now ,  that  I use a torque wrench for on my atvs ,  is the head bolts , the pinion nut  and the swing arm pivots and it's and jam nut  

That's what I was thinking, and get the bottom nut tight as I can get it by hand then the top holder tight but loose enough to steer easy, handlebar nuts tight by hand am I right?

Edited by F250 guy

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There is no top nut on either the two wheel  or four wheel drive versions of the steering shaft.  That thing in the fiche at the top of the shaft is a cap.  Tighten the Bottom bolt tight Then line up the cotter hole 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

There is no top nut on either the two wheel  or four wheel drive versions of the steering shaft.  That thing in the fiche at the top of the shaft is a cap.  Tighten the Bottom bolt tight Then line up the cotter hole 

Ok thank ya

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Careful when tipping the handlebars forward and out of the way. If you force it too much the connectors can come loose and if you didn't remove the front fenders you will have to. I stand the machine up on it's rear rack when doing them, it makes it easier for me to work on.

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27 minutes ago, toodeep said:

Careful when tipping the handlebars forward and out of the way. If you force it too much the connectors can come loose and if you didn't remove the front fenders you will have to. I stand the machine up on it's rear rack when doing them, it makes it easier for me to work on.

I'm gonna get everything that I need tie rods, the whole bit, I'm gonna get it back running first, what's wrong with leaving the fenders on?  Reason for asking that, the guy who put the winch on put the remote on the fender, but I think I'll take it off and plug the hole with the old remote socket. Never did like the remote, plus I wanna save myself taking the fender off. 

 

Handlebar I wasn't gonna tip it forward I was gonna lower it down on the frame where the tank would go. Being on unemployment stinks ya gotta wait and get things done little by little. 

Edited by F250 guy

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I leave the fenders on when doing it but some will remove them for easier access to things. All you have to do is take the 2 14mm nuts off on the handlebar clamps and the 12mm bolt for the acc outlet and everything will tip forward out of the way. All the cables and wiring run in the front so you have to go forward with it. Secure it to the rack and it will be easy to remove the steering shaft (after the 22mm nut is off the bottom and the 2 12mm bolts removed from the mid clamp).

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58 minutes ago, toodeep said:

I leave the fenders on when doing it but some will remove them for easier access to things. All you have to do is take the 2 14mm nuts off on the handlebar clamps and the 12mm bolt for the acc outlet and everything will tip forward out of the way. All the cables and wiring run in the front so you have to go forward with it. Secure it to the rack and it will be easy to remove the steering shaft (after the 22mm nut is off the bottom and the 2 12mm bolts removed from the mid clamp).

Makes alot more sense. Thank ya. Bearing is drove in from the bottom right, just wanted to make sure before trying sometime soon. 

Edited by F250 guy

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No, the top side where the snap ring is. Once you get the steering shaft out you can remove the top seal and then start with the snap ring. Like mentioned before, hopefully you get lucky and it's not rusted in too bad.

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6 minutes ago, toodeep said:

No, the top side where the snap ring is. Once you get the steering shaft out you can remove the top seal and then start with the snap ring. Like mentioned before, hopefully you get lucky and it's not rusted in too bad.

Oh ok once I get the seal and snap ring off and from the bottom side beat on it like no tomorrow. 

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While you waiting to get started , maybe spray some good quality penetrating oil on the bearing and clip and let it be soaking it up ----------- the 2wd version is easier not only cause there is no diff in the way , but also  the bearing holder plate makes a pocket down on a 2wd , where the 4wd version has that same bearing holder  going up --------- I am remembering one  time that bearing plate got bent bad on my 95 , I had to get a port-a-power in there and bend it back into position , then weld gusset plates on it  , ---- I have a bunch of pics of that job on a old thread 

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48 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

While you waiting to get started , maybe spray some good quality penetrating oil on the bearing and clip and let it be soaking it up ----------- the 2wd version is easier not only cause there is no diff in the way , but also  the bearing holder plate makes a pocket down on a 2wd , where the 4wd version has that same bearing holder  going up --------- I am remembering one  time that bearing plate got bent bad on my 95 , I had to get a port-a-power in there and bend it back into position , then weld gusset plates on it  , ---- I have a bunch of pics of that job on a old thread 

One problem I'm 30 miles from my wheeler.  But I'm going up there sometime tomorrow I'll see what I can do. Just got my parts from G&H.

IMG_20200210_144320.jpg

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here's what i would do: remove the bolts from the handle bar clamps, slide the bars out of the way, reach in from in front of the front fender, remove the two 12mm bolts holding the steering stem clamp to frame. from under the atv, remove the 22mm lock nut off the steering stem shaft, drop the tie rod end off the steering shaft, then just pull the steering shaft up , and out of the bearing. from here, you can either pry the old dust seal off the top of the bearing with a seal puller tool, or just pry it out with a flat blade screw driver, IF YOU HAVE A NEW SEAL TO GO BACK IN ??!. once the seal is out, remove the snap ring, you will need a good pair of snap ring pliers to get it out, some are rusted in there. i soak mine with wd-40, then take a punch, and tap one end of the snap ring to free it up some, once this is done, its easier to pull the snap ring out. once snap ring is out, from under the bearing, take a long bar, say 3/8 ?, use it to put in from under, and through the bottom dust seal, then hammer the bearing up and out. MAKE SURE YOU MOVE THE BAR SIDE TO SIDE ON THE BEARING !!!, this will keep you from wedging the bearing in the frame hole. if you have a new bottom dust seal as well ?, you can put that in from the bottom first, new bearing back down in from the top, then snap ring, then new dust seal, then slide steering shaft back down through bearing. i do not know why honda put a snap ring on top of this bearing ??..its not like it will go anywhere once down in the frame !..lol.

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2 hours ago, shadetree said:

here's what i would do: remove the bolts from the handle bar clamps, slide the bars out of the way, reach in from in front of the front fender, remove the two 12mm bolts holding the steering stem clamp to frame. from under the atv, remove the 22mm lock nut off the steering stem shaft, drop the tie rod end off the steering shaft, then just pull the steering shaft up , and out of the bearing. from here, you can either pry the old dust seal off the top of the bearing with a seal puller tool, or just pry it out with a flat blade screw driver, IF YOU HAVE A NEW SEAL TO GO BACK IN ??!. once the seal is out, remove the snap ring, you will need a good pair of snap ring pliers to get it out, some are rusted in there. i soak mine with wd-40, then take a punch, and tap one end of the snap ring to free it up some, once this is done, its easier to pull the snap ring out. once snap ring is out, from under the bearing, take a long bar, say 3/8 ?, use it to put in from under, and through the bottom dust seal, then hammer the bearing up and out. MAKE SURE YOU MOVE THE BAR SIDE TO SIDE ON THE BEARING !!!, this will keep you from wedging the bearing in the frame hole. if you have a new bottom dust seal as well ?, you can put that in from the bottom first, new bearing back down in from the top, then snap ring, then new dust seal, then slide steering shaft back down through bearing. i do not know why honda put a snap ring on top of this bearing ??..its not like it will go anywhere once down in the frame !..lol.

I'll wait on that, we had to get back before the water got up to much. I got the carb on but MAN what A PAIN. That intake snorkel, idk what they were thinking that thing is to tight to take off, why did they design it that way? Got caught b a n but vent hose cracked so now I gotta see what size if the auto parts store has one the same size. I swear 1 step closer 3 steps back. And the screw for the snorkel clamp stripped, got it loose but the head is done for. 

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49 minutes ago, F250 guy said:

I'll wait on that, we had to get back before the water got up to much. I got the carb on but MAN what A PAIN. That intake snorkel, idk what they were thinking that thing is to tight to take off, why did they design it that way? Got caught b a n but vent hose cracked so now I gotta see what size if the auto parts store has one the same size. I swear 1 step closer 3 steps back. And the screw for the snorkel clamp stripped, got it loose but the head is done for. 

lol, WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF ATV REPAIR AND OWNERSHIP !..LOL.

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36 minutes ago, shadetree said:

lol, WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF ATV REPAIR AND OWNERSHIP !..LOL.

Why can't it be like the 91 model year that wonderful back bone?  Lol I know, I got the new OEM Honda tappet cover gaskets, but my originals are squished like flat Orings, did I get the wrong part from partzilla or did they start life out as Orings?

 

Image for reference only.

Screenshot_20200211-184518.png

Edited by F250 guy

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8 minutes ago, F250 guy said:

Why can't it be like the 91 model year that wonderful back bone?  Lol I know, I got the new OEM Honda tappet cover gaskets, but my originals are squished like flat Orings, did I get the wrong part from partzilla or did they start life out as Orings?

 

Image for reference only.

Screenshot_20200211-184518.png

all of them new are round, once you install them, over time, they flatten out.

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