Louis 14 Posted March 15, 2020 All 3 green wires read 0.3 ohms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 15, 2020 Can someone please explain to me how the two wires from the IAT are G/O (B2) and Gr/Bu (B20) on the gray pcm connector. I'm not seeing it on my model wiring diagram. It looks to me like the G/O tie in to P/Bu and go to the middle pcm connector. I did find what melatv asked me to check but it is confusing me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 15, 2020 The reading on the IAT & ECT are higher than the manual --- section 6 --page 6-26 --you may have take the reading right at the sensor. The G/O has no connection to the P/Bu wire that P/Bu #1 gear The picture shows what (B2) means Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Hey melatv. I never got the notification from your reply. Anyway, thanks for clearing that up. That's a different diagram than I'm looking at. I'll test it closer to the sensor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Are these the IAT and ECT sensors? Beside the spark plug and on front side of air filter box Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 I just realized you gave me the page in the manual. I'm looking now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Question. On step #2, when it says add the jumper, do I test the jumper itself for voltage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 I put a jumper in the 2 pin iat connector and put the lead on the jumper and it reads 0.008V. I then went to step 3 and it reads 2.9 kilo ohms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 (edited) Yes you have the right places for the ECT & IAT Yes you test the jumper -- you had the gray connector plug in to the PCM when you check for zero -- if so both reading are good. Now if you haven't tested the ECT go to section 6 page 6 - 21 -- steps 1&2 you can do -- without special connectors These tests are only for checking the sensors --- your bike is showing no codes? With the CKP it's should be okay --but the only way to test it is with a Peak Voltage Adapter -- 0.7 volts -- without that 0.7 volts and the bike turn over good the bike will never start. Edited March 17, 2020 by Melatv Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Thank you. No it's not showing any codes. The only light is the neutral light and its steady, no flashing. I'll check the ECT and see what I can do about a peak voltage tester Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 If you have a analog meter (one with a needle) you can put in on the AC scale and the needle will fluctuate the needle indicating voltage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 I sure don't. Il see about buying a peak voltage tester. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 Try this plug everything back in turn key on -- don't push the start button -- take a screw driver and place it across the 2 big studs of the starter solenoid or just remove the big wire on the solenoid going to starter motor and touch on the stud with the wire on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 I tried and it would turn over but not start. I'm not getting close to 5V on the ECT or IAT. you think the pcm could be bad? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Well crap, my bad, the pcm was unplugged when I checked them. I am getting 5V on both of them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 5 VDC is good -- both when unplugged read about the same Kohms? PCM/ECM -- sounds like it's okay because the Neutral comes on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Yes, they both read a little over 3 kilo ohms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 52 minutes ago, Louis said: Yes, they both read a little over 3 kilo ohms Are you taking the reading at the sensors and at gray connector?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Yes, I ohmed both sensors at the pcm gray connector first then at the sensors. They all read a little over 3 kohms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 51 minutes ago, Louis said: Yes, I ohmed both sensors at the pcm gray connector first then at the sensors. They all read a little over 3 kohms Okay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Melatv, if the ignition coil was bad would it prevent the fuel pump from priming? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 17, 2020 Nevermind, I remember there's a voltage drop when trying to turn over Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 17, 2020 6 hours ago, Melatv said: Try this plug everything back in turn key on -- don't push the start button -- take a screw driver and place it across the 2 big studs of the starter solenoid or just remove the big wire on the solenoid going to starter motor and touch on the stud with the wire on it. I know you tried this days ago -- but now with unplugging things -- get voltages -- Ohms checks -- try the above again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 20, 2020 Hey melatv, I tried that again and still the same thing. It'll turn over but won't start. I ordered a used but tested oem ckp/alternator for $27. I'm gonna change that out and see what happens Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 20, 2020 Okay -- will keep in touch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
