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Louis

Low voltage to fuel pump

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Hi Louis: Here a video that may help you 

 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=install+stator+0n+honda+trx420+video&view=detail&mid=19D46BC37BB9B89DBD2019D46BC37BB9B89DBD20&FORM=VIRE

 

When you take the bolts out -- use piece a cardboard and draw a out line of the bolt placement and punch holes in cardboard where the bolt go and set bolts in them.

Edited by Melatv
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Before you go doing all that -- I would get a Peak Voltage Adapter for the meter

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Yeah, there's a lot more to this than that video shows. I had to take the swing arm loose in the rear to remove the axle. I can't get the starter off or the front shaft and without removing them I won't have room to take the cover off. Wish I had full coverage I'd burn this piece of junk lol

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7 hours ago, Louis said:

Yeah, there's a lot more to this than that video shows. I had to take the swing arm loose in the rear to remove the axle. I can't get the starter off or the front shaft and without removing them I won't have room to take the cover off. Wish I had full coverage I'd burn this piece of junk lol

after you get insurance on it, then burn it, i'll sell you a completely restored, manual shift '88 trx350D, that needs nothing but a rider !..lol.

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18 hours ago, Louis said:

Yeah, there's a lot more to this than that video shows. I had to take the swing arm loose in the rear to remove the axle. I can't get the starter off or the front shaft and without removing them I won't have room to take the cover off. Wish I had full coverage I'd burn this piece of junk lol

It's not a easy working on ATV or others like SxS if it;s first time thing for you --- you may go through replacing the CKP -- finding it was not the problem -- using a Peak Voltage Adapter would tell you if the CKP is good -- also the PVA is needed to check the voltage at the ign. coil for a 100 volts 

Edited by Melatv
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Yeah I know lol. I knew it was taking a chance. I'm just tired of testing and I'm ready to start replacing !. I was going to take it to a shop but after all that you and others have had me try, I don't trust they would know the problem right off and would cost mean arm and a leg once its said and done so I decided to do it myself. For the price of the peak voltage tester I figured I'd might as well buy the part. I knew it would be a job but it was a little more than I thought. I did get it off and replaced. I'm in the process of putting it back together now. I do like that I've learned through the process. 

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Well, I swapped out the alternator successfully and to no surprise the fuel pump still isn't priming and still not getting fire. I'm glad to rule that out though. You think it may be the wiring harness or are there still other possible issues?

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On 3/27/2020 at 10:27 AM, Louis said:

Well, I swapped out the alternator successfully and to no surprise the fuel pump still isn't priming and still not getting fire. I'm glad to rule that out though. You think it may be the wiring harness or are there still other possible issues?

i don't recall if this has been tested by you or not ?, and i do not even know if it can be done ? ( surely it can ? ), but have you tried hooking 12 volts, say from directly from the battery, or a car battery straight to the fuel pump, and see if it works that way ?, at least it will rule out if the pump is even good ?!.

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Hey shade tree, I just now saw you replied. I have ran a wire straight to the fuel pump and it did run but the four wheeler still wouldn't start. I'm not really sure where to go from here so I'm just starting to replace parts

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Hey guys, question please. I figured I'd test the fuel pump/engine stop relay again since I replaced the stator. When I tested it, the engine stop ohmed good but the fuel pump side didnt. I had a spare so I tried it. Before I plugged it in, I tested it and both sides ohmed good and when I connected it to the battery it would click. After I tried it (still wouldn't prime), I tested it again and it wouldn't click when connecting it to the battery and when ohming it it wasn't reading 0.00 anymore. It would read 0.1 or 0.2. So is it being shorted out?

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18 minutes ago, Louis said:

Before I plugged it in, I tested it and both sides ohmed good and when I connected it to the battery it would click. After I tried it (still wouldn't prime), I tested it again and it wouldn't click when connecting it to the battery and when ohming it it wasn't reading 0.00 anymore. It would read 0.1 or 0.2. So is it being shorted out?

 

Let me take a guess.... cheap china fuel pump on it?

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So you think the fuel pump is shorting the relay out?

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1 minute ago, Louis said:

Yes it is lol

 

OMG. no comment.

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Look for melted wiring between the phony pump and relay too.

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I'm at work now. So you think the fuel pump is requiring too much voltage and is shorting the relay?

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Hi: Like I have said before if the CKP doesn't supply the 0.7 VAC to the PCM -- you will not get spark -- fuel pump will not run -- fuel injector will not function.

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Melatv, I believe the ckp tested to be good but I'll check it again to be sure

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Nevermind, that's the one you said check with the peak voltage adapter 

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But I did just replace it

Edited by Louis

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9 minutes ago, Louis said:

But I did just replace it

How are you and me going to know if it's good???? ---- PVA is the answer

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For anyone that's wondering what the problem ended up being, it was the pcm. 

Edited by Louis
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Thanks for coming back and posting the resolution.  Might help someone out in the future

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