toodeep 1,758 Posted February 20, 2020 14 hours ago, Louis said: This is the fuel pump relay connection. From the left to right, the first two (brown) wires ohmed bad and the third two(red/black, red/white) ohmed bad. Both showed O.L. Also, I jumped the first two brown wires and the relay would buzz and the fuel pump would run. But it wouldn't start Which connector are you testing when ohming the wires here? What voltage do you have going to the black/green wire? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 20, 2020 (edited) I'm checking the wires that the fuel relay plug in to. I ohmed the top and bottom wires together. For example, the two brown and silver wires to the far left. The black and green wire reads 12.24v Edited February 20, 2020 by Louis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 20, 2020 Scratch the missing pin. There isn't even a wire on the back side of it in that spot lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted February 20, 2020 Sorry but I'm just clarifying to rule out miscommunications. You ohmed the brown wire where it is stripped back with one probe and the other probe down at the terminal inside the connector correct and then did the same for all the other individual wires? The "two brown and silver" statement has me asking since there is the brown with silver marks and the gray/orange wire on the left side. If that is what your doing and they are testing bad the problem is in that connector. I don't remember if you gave a voltage reading on the black/red wires. Have you tested that relay specifically to make sure both are good (I remember it was replaced but unclear if it was with a new oem part, used or off of a working machine). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,864 Posted February 20, 2020 16 hours ago, retro said: Oops! The alternator just recharges the battery while the motor is running. The ignition is a completely independent system. It doesn't work like that. How're those bullets tasting...? 🙂 unless the trx420's are built different than what I was taught by my 20 yr honda vet that retired not long ago ?, I was told by him the stators have two charging sides to them, one side goes to battery reg/rec, then re-charges battery, while other side goes to c.d.i. , soooooo..I don't know what to tell ya ??. to sum it up, if the stator is bad ?..it wont fire the spark plug. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted February 20, 2020 I think you are referring an AC-CDI ignition system shadetree. The 420 is DC-CDI, AKA a battery ignition system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,864 Posted February 20, 2020 8 minutes ago, retro said: I think you are referring an AC-CDI ignition system shadetree. The 420 is DC-CDI, AKA a battery ignition system. your right. sooo..if we think about this, if his reg/rec is bad ?, will this not keep the c.d.i. from firing the spark plug ?, as it has to have dc volts that start at the stator as AC, then reg/rec converts to DC, correct ?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted February 20, 2020 Nope, the DC ignition system is independent and separated from the charging system completely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted February 20, 2020 5 minutes ago, shadetree said: as it has to have dc volts that start at the stator as AC, then reg/rec converts to DC, correct ? Power for the ignition is supplied by the battery only. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 20, 2020 (edited) Toodeep, how I ohmed it is in the following pics, two ways. I did ohm each wire from the outside to the inside like you mentioned and each one ohmed good. The two brown wires on the left and the third set both search voltage and flash O.L. What I mean is I ohm them as a set, going in and coming out. I also ohmed the pins inside for each set of wires and they ohmed the same as on the outside of the connector. All 3 red and black wires read 12v. Hope that isn't too confusing lol Edited February 20, 2020 by Louis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted February 21, 2020 Those wires will not ohm out that way. This should give an idea of what each of them do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Aw heck. I sure appreciate it. I just thought one was in and the other out !. I'll get back at it tomorrow. Hopefully it'll help figure something out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Toodeep, in that diagram, is that the actual relay its showing or the connector that the relay plugs in to? It says relay module connector but it looks like the relay. I just want to be sure I'm ohming it the correct way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted February 21, 2020 That's for the relay. It's the test procedure to see if the relay is good or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Ok thank you. That was difficult to do without clips but I managed lol. It ohmed good. The relay clicked too when connected to battery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted February 21, 2020 You know which wire does what there now so some voltage/ground test should help narrow it down to a problem area. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Alright. Do you know what this black fuse is to the bottom left? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 790 Posted February 21, 2020 That is a Diode Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Oh ok. I'll see what I can figure out now. I appreciate all the help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted February 21, 2020 @Louis do you have a service manual? If not there is a free download on the top forum menu. The wiring diagram helps when chasing down the wiring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 No I don't. I just downloaded it though. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Hey, I have a little more information. I found another forum where a guy had a similar problem as mine. I didnt realize until I read it that when I turn the key on I'm not getting the initial Fl and temp light either. I read where he bypassed the stop start switch and bank angle sensor by using a jumper from the battery to the hot side of the ignition coil. When he did that, his would fire up and run but when I jumped it I still get nothing and still no fire. Does this information spark any ideas? Could my pcm be fried? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Only other information I have is that there is 12v going to the fuel pump relay (bl/red wire) and only 3.9v leaving relay going to fuel pump (brown wire). The relay ohms good so I don't understand it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted February 21, 2020 Something just came to mind. Are you testing for voltage directly after turning the key on, moving the kill switch or turning the motor over? The fuel pump is only powered for a few seconds each cycle. I should have thought of that question a few pages ago. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted February 21, 2020 Ive done both but not the kill switch. but I'll have to check it again to refresh my memory on what it does. When I move the kill switch over, it won't do anything as it supposed to but will turn over when in the center Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
