Melatv 788 Posted March 5, 2020 I would say the solenoid is bad -- If you want to see if the bike will start -- unplug the the 2 small wires going to the solenoid leave the big wire off also --- Have all the connectors back in place fuel pump connected -- turn key on you don't have to push the start button --- put on a pair of glasses for eye safety -- take the big wire that you removed and just touch it on the stud of the solenoid with the other big wire on it (you will see sparks) bike should start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 5, 2020 I made sure everything is connected and tried that. It would turn over but not start Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 5, 2020 Remember, I'm not getting fire but the fuel pump also isn't priming Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 5, 2020 Remove spark plug to see if you are getting spark --ground plug to engine --when you try starting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 5, 2020 I wish you were near me ( where are you) -- so I could get my hands into the problem -- I will see what I can come up with to test. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 5, 2020 With the key do you have 12 VDC on the Bl/R wire on the Ign> coil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 5, 2020 I live in Marmaduke, Arkansas. Ok, just take your time. No hurry. I appreciate everything y'all have helped with Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 5, 2020 All the things in the Red circle need to be satisfied (if PCM is good)-- before you can get spark or fuel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 6, 2020 Alright. I'm back at work again. I have the next 4 days off so I'll see what I can come up with Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 7, 2020 (edited) Hi, I found most of the sensors and the wires look good as far as I can tell. To be honest, I'm not sure how to test the sensors to see if they are good. Edited March 7, 2020 by Louis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 7, 2020 You can check the CKP unplug the connector (Key off) --- Put you meter on the Ohms scale and check the G/W & Bu/Y -- put meter just across the 2 wires 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 7, 2020 Ok, that's the same plug we ohmed before that goes to the alternator right? It reads 0.228 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 7, 2020 I did notice that there is some kind of oily substance in that connector. I'm assuming it's there to repel water. Is that supposed to be there? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 7, 2020 That reading .228 is that Ohms or Kilo_ohms --- it should be around 140 Ohms That could be some dielectric grease Key off --Same connector check the 3 yellow wire from yellow to yellow --should read around 1 ohm from yellow to yellow Key off -- Them check the 3 yellow wire to ground -- black test lead on neg of battery -- should read infinity Key off -- also check the CKP wire to ground. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 7, 2020 Yes, the 0.228 is kilo ohms. On the 3 yellow wires, all of them ohm 0.00. Then to ground, all 3 yellow wires search around in mV. The ckp wire to ground searches around 30mV. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 7, 2020 Unless you meant ohm, the 3 yellow wires read O.L and the ckp wire read O.L also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted March 7, 2020 I've seen oil work its way up the harness and into that connector before. To help Mel, which side of the connector are you testing, motor or harness? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louis 14 Posted March 7, 2020 I checked the motor side. Is that right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 7, 2020 1 hour ago, Louis said: Yes, the 0.228 is kilo ohms. On the 3 yellow wires, all of them ohm 0.00. Then to ground, all 3 yellow wires search around in mV. The ckp wire to ground searches around 30mV. Okay that should good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 7, 2020 It looks to me like the CKP sensor coil is reading nearly open at 0.228 Ohms. Should be measuring around 140 Ohms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, retro said: It looks to me like the CKP sensor coil is reading nearly open at 0.228 Ohms. Should be measuring around 140 Ohms. Retro -- he posted again saying it was Kilo ohms -- 228 ohms Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 788 Posted March 7, 2020 Hi: Unplug the TP & Map sensor (connector 5P) Key on for this test --meter on DCV --black test lead neg. of battery -- red test lead on the Br/W wire on the harness side should read 5 VDC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 7, 2020 Ahhh... OK, but Louis confirmed it measured .228 Ohms above. He has an autoranging meter, so there should not be a dot preceding those digits. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
