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05-11 Foreman 500 FM engine rebuild

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4 hours ago, Melatv said:

Your not going use this again??

113373685_valvecover.thumb.jpg.28afbda86dba5be16fecb586dd467de9.jpg

Lol no. That “this looks ok” was a joke.

 

That was off of a parts bike I bought a couple of weeks ago. Cylinder was rusted and had to hammer the piston out of it.

 

Anyone ever see a rocker box do that? Wonder what caused it?

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5 hours ago, shadetree said:

if the oil temp sensor is not good ?, the fan will never come on. you can check the fan by turning key on, grounding the oil temp wire to engine, fan should come on when you do this. does not rule out a bad oil temp sensor though ?.

I need to check the sensor, but I didn’t ride 1/4 of a mile, turned around, and then headed back.

Normally I’m a good 6-8 miles from the house before the fan kicks on.

if course, if the temp sensor AND the oil pump are bad, that’s gonna be ugly.

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49 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Lol no. That “this looks ok” was a joke.

 

That was off of a parts bike I bought a couple of weeks ago. Cylinder was rusted and had to hammer the piston out of it.

 

Anyone ever see a rocker box do that? Wonder what caused it?

going out on a limb, i'd say it jumped time, piston struck valve, valve connected to rocker, rocker attached to push rod to cam, bound up, presto..cracked rocker box.

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Makes sense.  The wheeler is an 08, was partially stripped, and the rear end was completely seized up.  Interestingly enough, when I took the rear diff apart the fluid in it was clean, and the gears looked good.  A little oil on the bearings and working them back and forth and it was fine.  Bearings were tight, just hadn't been turned in a long time.

 

Engine was all there.  Water/rust/mud in the cylinder so I figured it had been sunk.  I'll check the timing before I tear down the bottom end, just out of curiosity.

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I have just finished installing the bottom end of my engine and the meter is reading the gear Position wrong. Is there any way to fix this with out going back into to engine.

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What gears are not reading correctly?

When you put the rear crank case cover on, did you make sure to align the long end of the gear position switch with 

the "N" postion on the switch before assembling? If not, this will cause you problems and is easy to fix

as you just have to pull rear cover off, the switch may be damaged if it was not in correct position though

Its on page 12-30 of the service manual bottom of the page for clarification

 

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You got the gear position switch 180 degrees out. 

 

Pull the back cover off.  Look at the T coming off of the switch on the inside of the rear cover.  The long side of the T has to be pointed to the "N" printed on the switch.

 

The end of that T slides into the slot on the end of your shift drum, so when you shift gears, the drum turns that T, which is the gear position switch.

 

Make sense?

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Hello! Was wondering if you could help me out. I have an 06 500 foreman with a bad low gear. I can't get the crankcase to split open. I've removed all of the bolts i can find (15 of them) but still feels like it's fastened somewhere. I do not have the rear side of the engine busted open where the stator is. Is there a bolt or two inside there that would prevent me from removing the front half of the crankcase?

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Hi , John Henry , welcome to ATVHonda !!!

 

You ought to start your own thread ...

 

I just hailed @jeepwm69 for you , he usually stops by every morning ---

 

Here is a pic and a video might help , at  26 minutes and 20 seconds might be what  you are looking for , I think that is #20 in the pic  which would make 16 bolts 

 

image.png

 

image.png

  

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Thank you, Fishfiles! Yes this pretty much means what I didn't want to hear. They've got one dang bolt behind the rear crankcase cover, which means I've got to bust it apart too. I don't have the puller he speaks about in the video. So, now I'm wondering if I can get to that bolt without removing that drum.

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1 hour ago, JohnHenry said:

Thank you, Fishfiles! Yes this pretty much means what I didn't want to hear. They've got one dang bolt behind the rear crankcase cover, which means I've got to bust it apart too. I don't have the puller he speaks about in the video. So, now I'm wondering if I can get to that bolt without removing that drum.

A couple of hits with a hammer should get it off ....

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I finally got it split. Didn't need to remove the stator drum (not sure the proper name). I'd be afraid to hit it, seeing it apparently has magnets inside. Was pleased to find it was a correct diagnosis and there was one tooth broke off from the first gear. Now I hope I can get all of this back together next week when my gear set comes in! lol! I'm sure the video above will be an enormous help though.

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On 3/20/2021 at 12:19 PM, JohnHenry said:

I finally got it split. Didn't need to remove the stator drum (not sure the proper name). I'd be afraid to hit it, seeing it apparently has magnets inside. Was pleased to find it was a correct diagnosis and there was one tooth broke off from the first gear. Now I hope I can get all of this back together next week when my gear set comes in! lol! I'm sure the video above will be an enormous help though.

You should put a new timing chain in too while you have it tore down this far. Also, replace all the seals and put new gaskets in. Check your drain plug threads as those are common to be stripped out. Good luck with the rebuild.

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Clean the crap out of everything while you're in there, replace the timing chain, put new seals on the rear cover where the reverse lever goes, and on the case where the pull start cage bolts onto the crank (crank seal).

 

Also, replace the front and rear output seals, shifter seal while you have it apart.  Seals are cheap, and they're easy to replace while you have it apart.

 

Make sure your clutch adjuster screw is loose/ not seized up while you have the front cover off as well. 

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Now I'm having more issues. Since putting it back together it seems like I may have put the rear crankshaft cover on wrong. What I mean is I didn't know I needed to make sure it was in neutral and line up the gear position switch accordingly. I'm getting a reverse light in 4th and the neutral light between gears, 1st is showing up in 5th. I'm guessing I have to remove the engine again and bust it back open and realign it, provided it's not broken. I wanted to start it up (using the neutral bypass on the handbrake) and make sure there aren't other problems that need addressing while I have the engine removed. It isn't getting any fire to the sparkplug. Will the gear position sensor being fouled up prevent it from getting fire to the plug, or do I need to look and see if I've screwed something else up?

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On the shifting issue , you can take off the rear cover and retime the shifter with the engine in the frame , you got the manual ??? Page 191 in mine 

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Yes it won't start if it can't tell what gear it's in. 

 

Take cover off, spin that T around 180 degrees, and put it back on. 

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13 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

On the shifting issue , you can take off the rear cover and retime the shifter with the engine in the frame , you got the manual ??? Page 191 in mine 


I have a Clymer manual. I'm not sure how to get the cover off without removing the engine though. The rear shaft goes right through it. I really enjoy taking the engine out. I believe I'll do it once a week just for the fun of it. lol!🤪

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17 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Yes it won't start if it can't tell what gear it's in. 

 

Take cover off, spin that T around 180 degrees, and put it back on. 


That makes me feel much better about the no spark issue. Thanks!

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6 minutes ago, JohnHenry said:


I have a Clymer manual. I'm not sure how to get the cover off without removing the engine though. The rear shaft goes right through it. I really enjoy taking the engine out. I believe I'll do it once a week just for the fun of it. lol!🤪

 

Page 191 shows you how to timed the shift    ------     Leave the engine in and  take off the swing arm   

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You can do it without removing the engine or swing arm. I pulled that rear cover and repositioned some gears by the starter. You don’t need much to get in there and spin the gear position sensor. Putting it up in the air keeps your oil in the front so you don’t have to drain and replace. 

1C6F205A-D8B1-4A17-82DE-BEB8E711A31A.jpeg

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Can be done like Sled said.  It's tight and a PITA, but it can be done.

 

Or pull the engine again.  I'm honestly not sure which is better.  It's a pain to pull the engine, but SO much easier to work on it out of the frame.

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