Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I would line it up to the center of the hole the best you can. Its not gunna be far enough off when eyeballing it centered to hurt anything. I just had to make my own mark on my quad since the place that lightened my flywheel wasnt nice enough to put it back after removing the place my F and T line were.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Just now, SlammedRanger said:

I would line it up to the center of the hole the best you can. Its not gunna be far enough off when eyeballing it centered to hurt anything. I just had to make my own mark on my quad since the place that lightened my flywheel wasnt nice enough to put it back after removing the place my F and T line were.

Thank you for your input that was what I was wondering if that is what I should do if it would hurt anything to be just a tad off or not this is my first fuel-injected Honda every other Honda I've had has been carbureted

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Well saying the line on the flywheel is in the correct spot. And being that it would appear you got a friday build on your hands.....there no way to know 100% sure. We do know 100% sure they goofed on the placement of the line down the threads. But for future reference the motor on a carb model and FI model will be dang near identical. Just a few more sensors is all. Timing will be the same for sure.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
9 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

Well saying the line on the flywheel is in the correct spot. And being that it would appear you got a friday build on your hands.....there no way to know 100% sure. We do know 100% sure they goofed on the placement of the line down the threads. But for future reference the motor on a carb model and FI model will be dang near identical. Just a few more sensors is all. Timing will be the same for sure.

It says in the service manual 73psi mine is 95psi is that good compression or to much?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Compression is very tough to be exact. Oddly enough the general rule of thumb is 100psi your good enough to run on. But the auto decompression on alot of engines out now will have an effect on that number. But if you battery was maybe alittle week or drained it could maybe not activate the auto decompression right and make it do some crazy things also. You also want to hold the throttle wide open when doing the test and with a fuel injected bike pull the fuel pump relay or fuse so it cant pump fuel in there cuz again that can have an effect on compression numbers. Alot of factors involved as you can see.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Was the compression test before the top end overhaul? A little background info on the machine might help us getting you going in the correct direction. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
3 hours ago, Rancher-mudd-junkie said:

20200302_173043~2.jpg

can you get a close up shot, angle in the thread hole, i can't see the threads in the hole. i've never seen the notch where you say it is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

You can zoom in better on mobile. This is the best I can do and it looks like a ledge at the bottom kind of. Some other machines just say line it up in the middle so that's what I would recommend.  I very seldom use the timing marks, do everything off of the piston.  

Screenshot_20200304-203729_Chrome.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
12 minutes ago, shadetree said:

can you get a close up shot, angle in the thread hole, i can't see the threads in the hole. i've never seen the notch where you say it is.

In his picture he is literally pointing a giant white arrow at the slot. You can see the black notch. That is the slot from the top view. Get out your bi-focals old timer! LoL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 minute ago, toodeep said:

You can zoom in better on mobile. This is the best I can do and it looks like a ledge at the bottom kind of. Some other machines just say line it up in the middle so that's what I would recommend.  I very seldom use the timing marks, do everything off of the piston.  

Screenshot_20200304-203729_Chrome.jpg

yeah..thats a first !!!..lol. 28 yrs of wrenching, and i've never seen anything like this !!..lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

In his picture he is literally pointing a giant white arrow at the slot. You can see the black notch. That is the slot from the top view.

toodeep blew it up, very odd to say the least !.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

The one advantage of using mobile over desktop, you can zoom in on photos better. With the quality of workmanship in these newer machines, nothing surprises me with screw ups. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 

A lot better pics of it and just ignore the f up honda made. Line it up in the center of the hole.  

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
10 hours ago, Rancher-mudd-junkie said:

IMG_0478.JPG

omg..yep..your right !. yeah, just put the T mark ( line under the T ) in the center of the hole, adjust the valves, yu'll be fine :-). i wonder how many they did on this production run like this ?, i would call honda corp, send them this pic, and ask them HOW THE HECK DO YOU SET THE VALVES WHEN THE TIMING MARK IS IN THE WRONG PLACE ???!!..LOL.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Could that be a metal sleeve that's spun in the case?  Perhaps from trying to over tighten the plug, or loosening the plug that was previously over tightened?  I thought it was just threads cut in the case, but that just doesn't make sense how that could have possibly happened.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Program got off during manufacturing. It might be common, like I said I very seldom look at them and never look for that notch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I would check my valve lash again. If they are loose just a little it can give you slightly higher compression numbers. Higher compression is hard on the battery, starter, solenoid and some of the wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...