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Turbo Twister

98' Honda TRX300FW

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On 10/1/2020 at 2:28 PM, Turbo Twister said:

It's not a Warn winch no, it's a Ninja Warrior Japanese made winch with synthetic rope. Warn Winches aren't easy to get this small in Ireland and I had a 6 ton Warrior winch on my old jeep which never gave me trouble so I went for a known brand again. I have no time for steel cables, after seeing one snap on a tractor winch years ago I avoid them like the plague!

 

Second pic on is my old work horse, a grand vitara XL7 2.0L turbo diesel, a small engine by you guys standard, but big for here in Ireland.

That was my thought, I think the fairlead is wide enough to do this, although I may have to weld a bit of plate on either side on the bumper, not a big job either way. 

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the 2nd picture looks like some of the ground here. although there are some good spots. sometimes there are not.

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On 12/29/2020 at 12:35 AM, LedFTed said:

the 2nd picture looks like some of the ground here. although there are some good spots. sometimes there are not.

The second photo was of a state owned forest where the 4x4 club we got an invite to runs the show. They have all sorts of vehicles from novice to professional. I'll upload some more photos when I get better signal as I'm currently in a bad spot.

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Finally got signal!

 

Pic.1 The Suzuki Jimny, fully standard with the driver only qualified the day before!

 

Pic.2 Partly modified Nissan Navara, snorkel, front winch and knobbly tyres is about the extent of it.

 

Pic.3 Heavily modified Suzuki Jimny for extreme off roading. 

 

Pic.4 Land Rover Defender 110, original owner from new, suspension lift, body lift, front winch, snorkel, led front beams. I had a ride in this as a passenger and it was well able to travel.

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8 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I really like the Land Rover , What year is it from ? 

From the number plate in the windscreen its a 1990.

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So times have moved on, Turbo has moved out and now lives on a small farm in the north east of the country.

His TRX300 lives there too and has led an uneventful life until yesterday when this happened. 
As a result I have had no interaction with the quad since I last posted.
Have any of you guys ever experienced this kind of failure? Pictures below.

Quad broken axle with mower.jpeg

Quad recovery.jpeg

Axle at drive end.jpeg

Axle hub end.jpeg

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Ouch!  Rear axle sheared right off.

 

Normally the factory 300 diffs explode before the axle gives up, but that almost (in my opinion) had to be a flawed rear axle.  I can't imagine the rest of the rear end taking the strain for that axle to shear like that unless there was a flaw in the metal in that spot on the axle.

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Hi Bluezulu ,  good to her from you'll again ----   no I have never seen a 300 axle break before ,  just like that one did 

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Yesterday the replacement axle and recovered saddle arrived so I got to work. First thing to do was put down cardboard on the gravel. Then I jacked up the rear end of the quad and supported it on timbers. The broken end of the axle is visible. Next I undid the brake cables and cable tied them to the silencer (muffler).

Then I undid the wheelnuts on the remaining wheel and removed it and the wheel hub.The drive and brake guards were then removed.

 

Next I separated the brake unit from the swinging arm. This is held on by four nuts. the lower front nut is obscured by the towbar. I did not remove the towbar at this stage as I had difficulty with it previously. More about this later. With the brake separated from the swingarm I loosened the axle locking nuts on that side. These are 41mm nuts and I still have the spanners I bought when we rescued the quad 3 years ago. The brake side nuts were easy.The drive side were much tighter. I had to block one spanner with a piece of timber and use a piece of pipe on the other to open the locknut. See picture.

 

Once the nuts were off the axle came out. This is where the difficulty started. The brake unit is supposed to slide off the axle in one piece. It would not.

After a little thought I opened the brake unit, took off the cover,  splined drum and brake shoes. The cover was, I thought, in very good condition considering that it now lives on a fairly wet farm. I put the broken axle in a vice and tapped the brake backing plate off using a timber mallet. The plate eventually came away, leaving the bearing stuck on the axle. At this stage my gloves were pretty greasy so there are no pictures from here on. I tapped the bearing off the axle. This took a fair bit of force, (lump hammer and timber mallet), but eventually it came off. When I tried to put the bearing back into the brake backing plate it would not go in, probably because yesterday was the hottest day of the year here with a temperature of about 25C (77F). I put the bearing in the freezer for about 10 minutes and then inserted it in the break backing plate. While I was waiting for the bearing to shrink I installed the axle in the rear drive.

 

After cleaning up the brake pads and the inside of the drum I reassembled the brake unit. When I attempted to put the brake on the axle, it got stuck at the splines and would not go on.  So I dismantled the brake again, took the axle out of the quad, padded it and placed it in the vice. I tapped the splined drum onto the axle, a little at a time and then back off. Once I had it fully on the splines it moved back and forth relatively freely.

 

So I re-assembled the brake, put it on the axle, screwed on the retaining nuts and replaced the axle in the quad. In order to get the brake snug against the swinging arm I had removed the splined brake actuator arm. Once I had attached the brake to the swinging arm I found that I could not re-attach the actuator as the towbar was in the way.

This led to the previous problem with the towbar. It is clamped on the axle tube by four bolts, two at the front which attach from the bottom and two at the back which attach from the top. All of them screw into captive bolts. My problem was that one of the rear captive bolts was stripped and I had placed a loose nut in the cavity below the captive nut. The bolt initially slackened and then the nut rotated. It took me a while to stop the nut rotating but I eventually got it off.

 

The brake actuator arm was then put back on, followed by the towbar.  The rear end of the towbar is a triangular hollow box and it is difficult to hold the loose nut inside it. I managed to get it secured by first tightening the other three towbar bolts and then holding the nut with a bent needlenose pliers. Once the towbar was on it was plain sailing and the wheels were put back on.

 

I hope I have not been too longwinded here and that this information might be of use to someone else. Spot welding the loose nut in the towbar is on Turbo's to do list.

 

Chocked.jpg

Brake cables secured to exhaust.jpg

Hub removed.jpg

Drive guard removed.jpg

Brake nut blocked by towbar.jpg

Brake side axle nut eased off.jpg

Drive side locknuts tight.jpg

Brake reassembled.jpg

Brake on axle.jpg

Job done.jpg

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You were lucky and unlucky at the same time as far as what I am use to seeing ,  I have never seen a 300 axle break/snap off  like that , seen them bend , seen them strip the splines ----- seen a lot of them rust the splines to the ring gear and never come apart 

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reason brake parts would not come right off : there is an o-ring inside, stuck between the brake drum and axle splines !..lol. if this o-ring is not removed ?, then the brake drum will not budge !. yes...i have seen axles twist off like this..but not on a trx300fw ?!. they do..and will twist off if you put enough torque to them.

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34 minutes ago, shadetree said:

reason brake parts would not come right off : there is an o-ring inside, stuck between the brake drum and axle splines !..lol. if this o-ring is not removed ?, then the brake drum will not budge !. yes...i have seen axles twist off like this..but not on a trx300fw ?!. they do..and will twist off if you put enough torque to them.

Hi Shade,

               Funnily enough we had put two O rings on the axle at the brake side but I did remember to take them off before I tried to get the brake off the axle. I could not figure out what was causing the stoppage and took a magnified picture to see if there was anything jamming the bearing. Picture attached. I think the objects at 6 o'clock in the picture are bits of grease. Both of the O rings were perfect and this time I put one on each end of the axle next to the relevant bearing.

 

After the work yesterday I found that the handbrake was not working. Some head scratching later I came to the conclusion that the cable was too long so I had a look in my very modest stash of "stuff which might someday be useful" and found an iron bicycle cable adjuster and two aluminium ones. ( Please note that I operate on the rule that you keep a thing for seven years and if you can find no use for it, keep it for another seven).  I did a little fettling of the adjuster and put it on the cable next to the handlebar brake lever.  Now we have a working handbrake.

Spline bearing interface.jpg

Handbrake adjuster.jpg

Edited by Bluezulu49
Grammar and two grease artifacts not one.
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