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Turbo Twister

Homemade mowers/brush hogs

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On 5/27/2020 at 11:33 AM, LedFTed said:

just waiting for an update on your progress. now i got to ask a dumb question; how do the blades turn in opposite directions? i'm thinking about a lot, so have not got back in a while. i just cant see it with one belt. your progress looks nice.

I have been crazy busy the past 4 or 5 weeks with work so unfortunately the mower deck and all other projects have been put on hold until work settles down a bit.

 

As for the drum question, as Wilson quoted above, a toothed belt drives both drums opposite eachother in a figure of "8" drive method, thus the two drums rotate towards eachother. I hope to get back at the project in about 2 weeks time but everytime I finish off a job another few come in🤦‍♂️

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thank you! , IMO it's an excellent design .(2 short blades per disk, or 4) .. but being I've never delt with a belt timed cutter ... (gear only) I'm still curious of the timing belt tension .... i have some design (mod ideas) but i'll Waite.. however ... i sure wish i had one like that to tinker with! 

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i was just trying to figure out the figure 8 with a timed belt. some of the pinto's, an a ford ranger i had, used timing belts. sometimes a PITA for me. time it by the book, it didn't run right, time it by ear, ran better.

 glad ya got jobs coming in.

Edited by LedFTed
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Hi everyone!

 

We are back in business with the rebuild of the mower! I sharpened the 3x 16mm drill bits I had and managed to drill out 14 of 16 total holes that needed to accommodate a larger pin, only breaking 1 bit thankfully, the other 2 bits are made of butter so I have to constantly resharpen them. 

 

I am also in the middle of partially converting my van into a weekend camper, so once the van is tidied up I will start figuring out how to fix the engine to the deck

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Edited by Turbo Twister
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The engine mounts are done! I was able to reuse the round metal tubing I made for a different purpose at the start of the build. It now works as a hinged mounting point so I can lift the engine for belt replacement, then it bolts down onto a box section at the front. I need to shim the back a little so the 2x metal stubs around the engine pulley sit about 10mm above the sprocket belt cover.

 

Good bit of work done today on it, next up, the pulley assembly and a tow hitch, I think using an actual tow hitch will give me more freedom when turning or reversing, it should put less pressure on the quad axle too as opposed to the new hitch I got for it ( didn't work out as I intended it might!)

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Update**

The driving pulley arrived in the post yesterday and I'm expecting the toothed belt today. Once the belt is on I can figure out the belt pulley setup. Will post some pics of the new bits in a few days.

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Unfortunately the toothed belt I got is the wrong size so have to replace it for the right one! I did however have a go with configuring the pulleys that will drive from engine to drum and have finalised my plan as to how I tension and un-tension the adjustable pulley. As you can see in the photo, the most forward pulley is hinged via a m12 bolt, the plastic pulley behind is welded solid to the engine mount. These both lift with the engine when its tilted and for compactness of space in the van, the adjustable pulley retracts within the depth of the deck under the engine when not in use.

 

I have to connect a wire to the outer end and fit a small hand winch or "hand brake" style lever to tighten/loosen this adjustable pulley (still figuring this out).

 

Once the top pulley mechanism is sorted, I need to get a pulley shaft key for the driving pulley as I couldn't source a pulley with internal keys. When this is done and both pulleys are sorted, I have to make a little dash for the ignition and other electrical components, a battery holder and make it all somewhat water proof, I also have to fit a kill switch so we can turn the engine off/off in a hurry. Hopefully get at it again on Sunday.

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Edited by Turbo Twister
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why did you do away with the original toothed cogs ? v pulleys won't stop the blades from slapping !! (this is a timed deck). the best would have been to add a v-belt pulley  to the top of the left toothed cog..... and that should be the drive ....  and the deck belt drive should remain like this ..or am i missing something ?? 

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1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

why did you do away with the original toothed cogs ? v pulleys won't stop the blades from slapping !! (this is a timed deck). the best would have been to add a v-belt pulley  to the top of the left toothed cog..... and that should be the drive ....  and the deck belt drive should remain like this ..or am i missing something ?? 

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I haven't done away with the toothed belt or toothed pulleys. They are below the pulley cover which is below the engine. The red cover hides the toothed pulleys so you don't loose a finger when it's running. It's as original as it gets..

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getting back the ratio.... if the main engine drive pulley diameter matches the original drive pulley ....  I'd say your good to go on the deck blade speed.

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Some goodies arrived today!

 

I bought a 10L steel Jerry can that will fit nicely in the quad box, extra storage of petrol for the bike or mower but not too heavy! I also got a new air filter and pre filter for the mower, some new fuel pipe and an inline fuel filter.

 

I fit the new filter and fuel line, its amazing how badly perished the old line was. I refit the fuel tank to the engine frame to check for leaks but it looks good so far.

 

I ordered new belts x3, 2x driving belts and 1x timing belt, hopefully its the right size this time!

 

I plan to sort out the adjustable pulley mechanism and all the wiring this weekend if I get the chance.

 

I have a new idea up my sleeve for an adjustable towing hitch with a 3 point contact to stabilise the mower if I wish to mow with the mower offset either side of the bike so stay tuned for that!

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Going to be nice , I got that feeling !!!

 

I was buying them Briggs fuel shut off valves made of plastic , like the one you have in  the fuel  line  , had them come part and leak , found some made of brass on e-bay that were actually $1 cheaper 

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On 7/3/2020 at 4:37 AM, Turbo Twister said:

I haven't done away with the toothed belt or toothed pulleys. They are below the pulley cover which is below the engine. The red cover hides the toothed pulleys so you don't loose a finger when it's running. It's as original as it gets..

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i couldnt see it, till i seen it. are the toothed pulleys designed to hold the belt on? i might have a pinto, or ranger tension pulley laying around here somewhere around. for the Ford 2.3 engine. the drive belt looks just like the timing belt, for those engines.

Edited by LedFTed

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they look like the top one in this pic, two part with the center bolt holding the top part, then you can see the alinement pegs 3 sticking up, and 3 sticking down... 

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6 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Going to be nice , I got that feeling !!!

 

I was buying them Briggs fuel shut off valves made of plastic , like the one you have in  the fuel  line  , had them come part and leak , found some made of brass on e-bay that were actually $1 cheaper 

I couldn't get a decent tap so I'm reusuing the old one that came with it. The fuel filter was blocked and leaking so that got upgraded. I ended up replacing all the clips as the external diameter of the new fuel pipe was slightly smaller than the old one, but same internal diameter. I will consider s brass tap down the line.

 

6 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

looking good.... have you decided on 4 blades pur disk, or 2 ? 

Going to go with 4 total for now @_Wilson_™ and see how it goes. I will have to buy another 4x tapered bolts and nuts if I want to fit the other blades.

 

2 hours ago, LedFTed said:

i couldnt see it, till i seen it. are the toothed pulleys designed to hold the belt on? i might have a pinto, or ranger tension pulley laying around here somewhere around. for the Ford 2.3 engine. the drive belt looks just like the timing belt, for those engines.

As @_Wilson_™ said, thre pulley is made up of 2 parts, you take the top off the pulley to fit the belt and time it, then refit the top half and bolt it down with a thick tapered washer.

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Turbo , my buddy at one of the flea markets just got this rig , didn't ask what he wants for it 

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51 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

is that a top deck belt drive ? i see the wheel drive gear gear box .... 

I would guess the gear box is for travel , and has belt driven blades ---- looks like it would go right on the back of an atv 

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turbo, I'd be curious as to how a 10 horse will power 8 short blades .....  looking forward to end result! i believe the issue will be the speed of pulling the cutter... will be the judge , well, that, and how sharp the blades stay..... sure does look like you've got it all figured out! 

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doesn't look wide enough.... to go behind 4 wheeler ...and..... mow the tracks out.... if the seller wanted that much.... I'd probably just resell it as a classic model...... instead of hack it up.

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I never seen it in person yet , would guess it is about 42 inch cut , I kind now what the guy ask for stuff , would guess he wants about $200 , if it don't run I bet I could get it around $100 , specially if he don't sell it this weekend , got enough projects , but that might be good to knock  the flood plots down as a tow behind 

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ah.... but a single blade on a 42 inch deck ?? that's a rare animal ... if indeed it's 42 inch.... it sure looks like a classic old machine ... especially that with heavy right angle gear box roller chain drive ... 

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He is proud of it , wants $300 , next week it will be $200 if it is still around , didn't look at how many blades --- he also has a bunch of old fram implements 

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