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Mac102004

What’s your favourite Penetrating Oil?

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I went to NAPA and they have the Kroil on the counter now and have  3 sizes , the stuff is expensive but is good , look at them prices ------  that test above with the breaking torque doesn't go to the next step , once the nut or bolt is broke loose , how easy does it unscrew the rest of the way 

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On 3/30/2020 at 8:50 PM, jeffo21 said:

does Vaseline count?

 

i thought about mentioning KY Jelly, but decided since i have no experience, it wasn't worth mentioning. now i'm to old to try. we are talking about screws and nuts, arnt we?

i bought a bottle of anti-seize half a century ago. - a decade, looks the same as the picture above.^^^ was a good investment. made by Pematex. i used it on my muzzle loader. 50 cal. never stuck, after that. back then, it was rated for 1,000f degrees. 🙂

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Ted , if KY jelly don’t work out for you ,then Astroglide might be right up your alley.  Lol 

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Has anyone tried Knock'r Loose?  I have a friend who swears by it.  I think CRC makes it.  I was going to buy some at NAPA the other day but they were out.

 

I've been using liquid wrench and pb plaster. 

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i'm with fish on this topic, no amount of pb,wd, kroil, lw...will ever break the rust off the full length of the bolt stud !!. breaking them free from the get-go is easy for most of us, its getting the dang nut, screw, whatever all the way off the stud...BEFORE THE DANG THING SNAPS OFF !..LOL. been turning rusty nuts/bolts for 28yrs now, and trust me..I'VE HAD SOME DANDY'S !. lately, i've snapped off a couple very large ( 17 mm ) nuts/bolts off the mufflers on some of these trx300's i've been working on, and the worst part about these ?, IS HONDA DECIDED TO PUT THEM BEHIND THAT STUPID METAL PLATE RIGHT AT THE BACK OF THE FRAME !, no way to access it ?..well..there is shadetree's way !!..lol. i take my angle grinder, slice me a hole right inside the frame on that dang metal, open it up were i can access the nut on the inside, when done, just hammer the metal back up, and leave it for the next person that will ever need to get to it..lol.

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wire brush the bolt, best you can, then bring out the torch. @shadetree; you already know this. then remove nut. use the silver Permatex later, when fastening. when i had room, i used a saw-zall, to cut a nut. about a 45% angle. better than snapping a bolt..

i may not have spelled it right, but wish i had used this on my tractor, instead of breaking, some of the lug nut stud's. now i gotta get them pressed out. i was standing on the breaker bar, trying to get the lug nuts loose. i only jumped up and down a couple of times. it

worked on most, not all.

Edited by LedFTed

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Ted , if KY jelly don’t work out for you ,then Astroglide might be right up your alley.  Lol 

i never seen KY jelly , only surmise, never heard of Astroglide. Lol,. Does it have to do with Astrology?

Edited by LedFTed

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10 hours ago, shadetree said:

i'm with fish on this topic, no amount of pb,wd, kroil, lw...will ever break the rust off the full length of the bolt stud !!. breaking them free from the get-go is easy for most of us, its getting the dang nut, screw, whatever all the way off the stud...BEFORE THE DANG THING SNAPS OFF !..LOL. been turning rusty nuts/bolts for 28yrs now, and trust me..I'VE HAD SOME DANDY'S !. lately, i've snapped off a couple very large ( 17 mm ) nuts/bolts off the mufflers on some of these trx300's i've been working on, and the worst part about these ?, IS HONDA DECIDED TO PUT THEM BEHIND THAT STUPID METAL PLATE RIGHT AT THE BACK OF THE FRAME !, no way to access it ?..well..there is shadetree's way !!..lol. i take my angle grinder, slice me a hole right inside the frame on that dang metal, open it up were i can access the nut on the inside, when done, just hammer the metal back up, and leave it for the next person that will ever need to get to it..lol.

Shadetree's way sounds a lot like Mac's way too. I've ran into that issue tons of times with all the rust we see up here.

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Gets mad sometimes , when they put a 1 inch bolt thru 1/8 of metal , which leaves 5/8 of threads expose out the other side of the nut , which gets all rusted and you have to back the bolt out thru the 5/8 of threads ---how many times have you broke the bolt loose then it will sheer off before it gets all the way unthreaded ---when that happens to you , soak it down with Kroil , work it back a forth a couple of turns and it will go a lot easier all the way 

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good point , fish, sure is good to have a heavy equipment mechanic around .... 

 

i know this is about penetrating oils ... but odd how no one has mentioned the ol liquid wrench ( acetylene torch )  at least for rusted nuts one can get to .... and heat is not an issue ....  i would think a tad bit cheeper then expensive solvents. 

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Most of the time for me if the nut twists and breaks off a bolt that’s a success too, lol it’s studs, bolts in blind holes, rounded off heads etc that I find to be a problem. If a nut and bolt is so rusted I need penetrant to get it to budge, it’s getting replaced. Period.

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Well I live up in the land of salt and snow (mn), rusty vehicles are a way of life. I like kroil, but if it’s really bad, I use an old trick my uncle taught me....  heat it up with a torch, then hit it with nozzle wax from the welder, penetrates better than any cold oil

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now .... this might sound strange to a few, well, lets just say it like it is .... just plain crazy--- but we had a discussion in the chat room not too long ago about using penetrating oil for sore joints , and YES, I'm talking fingers, knuckles, elbows, etc ... but not below the waist!!!! i know for a fact wd-40 works, i just wander how many out there have tried this, i know for a fact a few here (besides me) have. and no, this does not include ky jelly..... 

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Wilson , ^^^^ I can say I have sprayed WD-40 on my aching joints and it does help , just seen an ad for WD-40 where it listed the reason why it does help aches an pains ,and they actually mention the chemical that is in it , so it is not myth , but is it good for you is the question , LOL 

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yeah, i kind knew this would draw some some.... lol heck fish, I've been soaked in hydraulic oil (has to be the worst oil beside gear oil) diesel, gas, had brake fluid squirted in my eyes, (yes) from bleeding 300 front brakes sigh..... lol, had a cab johndeere that blew a a/c evap line filled the cab with freon, but, the worst i reckon, had to be torching up a allis Chalmers combine, man, that galvanized metal, is something else! and, safety glasses, gloves, and breathing mask aren't  always  bullet proof, or convenient! hey, i bet you had some dealings with same, little known fact, president Lincoln actually took something back in the day that had a mercury content, and my uncle Wayne, always claimed he couldn't  eat anything that was cooked, or heated in a microwave oven, always said it made his teeth hurt. 

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^^^^ Wilson , Quote " 

14 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

the worst i reckon, had to be torching up a allis Chalmers combine, man, that galvanized metal, is something else!

 

 

always heard to drink milk after welding or burning galvanized , to counter act the poison of the fumes , taste nasty , the fumes not the milk   , LOL 

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hey, people do much worse things nowa days then just using wd-40, take meth for instances..... wow talk about stupid! then you have  tooth paste, some type of mouth wash, laundry detergents, meds, soap, shampoo, and my favorites oven cleaner, and air craft paint stripper, a/c  condenser acid, concrete acid.... 

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3 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

^^^^ Wilson , Quote " 

 

 

always heard to drink milk after welding or burning galvanized , to counter act the poison of the fumes , taste nasty , the fumes not the milk   , LOL 

 

yup I've heard the same, from Steve Williamson ( my black smith friend) 

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