How to replace swingarm boot?

[slowindown 494]

All these pointers are great.  I'm kind of glad they didn't have the part in stock yesterday.  Ya'll are making it easy for me.  Knock on wood.

[AKATV 822]

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

yes, the shock does help hold the rear end up, but !!, it wont allow you to level the swing arm for a straight stab at the output shaft ?, but still..having a jack under it will help hold it up..your right..it is heavy !..lol.

No need for a straight stab into it, just rotate or swivel the u-joint into place and it will pop right into place, (again watch your fingers)

Again this is just my way of doing it, others have their way after years of working on these, this is just what I have found is easiest and works for me

 

Also, now is a good time to check/change rear output seal on engine, as your are right there and can see if its leaking

Be careful to not to pull the driveshaft out of rear differential or the gear oil will run out the end of the open swingarm driveshaft tube onto floor of garage (done it B4😢)

Edited April 7, 2020 by AKATV

[Fishfiles 20,145]

The shock was mentioned , but no one picked up that the brake cables are disconnected , you could get by by just disconnecting the foot cable as it is shorter and don't give you much slack  ,  it is  easier to undo both  brake cables

 

I only use a torque wrench for two things that I can think of  when working on my bikes , the swing arm pivot and lock bolts and the head bolts , the left pivot bolt and right side lock ring on my 300 is 83 ft pounds , the right pivot bolt is 36 "  inch  " pounds , you need a inch drive torque wrench to pull 3 pounds ( 36 inch pounds ) , which I do have one  and it is not much at all , but be sure the threads are clean cause it can give you a false reading if any dirt is in the threads  , to do job right and by the book you need a pivot lock ring socket ( I called it a spanner socket ) , they are fairly cheap on e-bay , I have one , and I have another that a friend made out a socket with a grinder years ago , the home made one  works fine  , must have taken him a well to do it , I think I have a pic of it 

[AKATV 822]

38 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

The shock was mentioned , but no one picked up that the brake cables are disconnected , you could get by by just disconnecting the foot cable as it is shorter and don't give you much slack  ,  it is  easier to undo both  brake cables

 

I only use a torque wrench for two things that I can think of  when working on my bikes , the swing arm pivot and lock bolts and the head bolts , the left pivot bolt and right side lock ring on my 300 is 83 ft pounds , the right pivot bolt is 36 "  inch  " pounds , you need a inch drive torque wrench to pull 3 pounds ( 36 inch pounds ) , which I do have one  and it is not much at all , but be sure the threads are clean cause it can give you a false reading if any dirt is in the threads  , to do job right and by the book you need a pivot lock ring socket ( I called it a spanner socket ) , they are fairly cheap on e-bay , I have one , and I have another that a friend made out a socket with a grinder years ago , the home made one  works fine  , must have taken him a well to do it , I think I have a pic of it 

Did anyone mention the rear diff and brake panel breather lines?...haha

I made one of those socket spanners for the swingarm out of a socket years ago-its so ugly and homemade looking I can hardly stand to look at it, but it works

  ( wife probably says same about me..)..😄

Edited April 7, 2020 by AKATV

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Here is the pic of the homemade spanner socket for the lock ring 

[slowindown 494]

Nice.  What size socket was that?

[slowindown 494]

Guys, I really appreciate all of the pointers.  I left the shock bolted up. I used a jack under the rear with a piece of plywood like in fishfiles pic earlier in the thread.  Then I used a smaller jack near the front of the swing arm so that I could really control the angle.  And I took a ratchet strap and hooked one end around the shock.  The ratchet end I connected to the frame near the fan.  This allowed me to pull the swingarm forward and counteract the push away by the shock - just had to be careful routing the strap.  So, I was able to line up everything pretty easily and get the driveshaft/u-joint back on the outputshaft and the Allen bolt pins into the swingarm bearings.

 

The swing arm bearings turned smoothly and rear engine seal didn't seem to be leaking.  So I'm good there.

 

I went ahead and ordered the locknut tool since it started coming out when I removed the right side Allen bolt/pin.  It should be delivered tomorrow or Saturday and I can torque the right side.

Edited April 16, 2020 by slowindown

[Fishfiles 20,145]

On 4/7/2020 at 4:04 PM, slowindown said:

Nice.  What size socket was that?

slowindown , I just seen your question today , I would have to go look , think it was 1 3/16 , but I see you ordered the correct socket ---- , but different sockets have different thickness of the walls  ---- just recently , I was putting wheel spacers on my bike and had a 17mm Craftsman deep dish socket and it wouldn't fit in the recessed hole of the spacer  , tried a couple of different sizes and nothing seemed to fit  , then got another exact same Craftsman 17mm deep dish socket and it fit , the older Craftsman were thicker  and bigger O.D. 

[slowindown 494]

Well the socket came in so I could feel my torque wrench click once.  I then through the tool in the toolbox where I will find it in 15 years and wonder what it was for. . . lol

 

 

 

 

[shadetree 5,864]

6 hours ago, slowindown said:

Well the socket came in so I could feel my torque wrench click once.  I then through the tool in the toolbox where I will find it in 15 years and wonder what it was for. . . lol

 

 

 

 

lol, i've never, not onced used that spec tool for the lock nut , i always just pay attention to where its at when i bust the bolt loose ?, make sure its about in same spot when i tighten the bolt down, done !.

[slowindown 494]

18 minutes ago, shadetree said:

lol, i've never, not onced used that spec tool for the lock nut , i always just pay attention to where its at when i bust the bolt loose ?, make sure its about in same spot when i tighten the bolt down, done !.

 

Believe me that would’ve been my preferred method. But like I mentioned earlier, when I loosened the Allen pin, the lock nut came with it. So, the method you mentioned was impossible for me. 

[shadetree 5,864]

1 minute ago, slowindown said:

 

Believe me that would’ve been my preferred method. But like I mentioned earlier, when I loosened the Allen pin, the lock nut came with it. So, the method you mentioned was impossible for me. 

simple then: when the lock nut does not move, and the bolt does ?, just put it right back in the way it was, no need to mess with the lock nut !.

[slowindown 494]

12 minutes ago, shadetree said:

simple then: when the lock nut does not move, and the bolt does ?, just put it right back in the way it was, no need to mess with the lock nut !.

 

Yeah but that’s not what happened in this case.  The lock nut wasn’t stuck in one place on the pin. Initially, the lock  nut started backing out wit the pin. Then I screwed the pin back in, working it back and forth while using penetrating oil. Pretty rusty. Then the pin started tuning in the lock nut. But when I removed the pin some deeper threads caught the lock nut and backed it out too. So in my mind with all of that movement, the only way to get the torque right was by following the service manual and torquin the pin to 35 inch lbs and then the ring to 87 ft lbs. 

 

Instead of blowing the $39 for the tool I could have bought a cheap socket and cut it with my angle grinder and saved $30 but I decided just to buy the tool 

[toodeep 1,758]

The torque on the right pivot bolt is the most important to get correct. It sets the preload on the bearings. Too tight and you'll get premature bearing wear, too loose and you'll have play. I've seen people over tighten that bolt and over time spread the frame resulting in a crack on the frame. The lock nut just locks in in place since it's a low torque number.

[Melatv 789]

13 hours ago, slowindown said:

 

Yeah but that’s not what happened in this case.  The lock nut wasn’t stuck in one place on the pin. Initially, the lock  nut started backing out wit the pin. Then I screwed the pin back in, working it back and forth while using penetrating oil. Pretty rusty. Then the pin started tuning in the lock nut. But when I removed the pin some deeper threads caught the lock nut and backed it out too. So in my mind with all of that movement, the only way to get the torque right was by following the service manual and torquin the pin to 35 inch lbs and then the ring to 87 ft lbs. 

 

Instead of blowing the $39 for the tool I could have bought a cheap socket and cut it with my angle grinder and saved $30 but I decided just to buy the tool 

Hi: If you used the locknut tool with your torque wrench and the torque wrench is straight in line with with the locknut tool you have to reduce the setting on the torque to 79 ft lbs

[slowindown 494]

11 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Hi: If you used the locknut tool with your torque wrench and the torque wrench is straight in line with with the locknut tool you have to reduce the setting on the torque to 79 ft lbs

 

 

Ooooooh! I get it now.  I did not understand what that meant in the manual.  The factory tool is offset.  The aftermarket tool is inline like a socket.  I have the aftermarket tool.  So I set it at 87, I guess I need to go back and redo it to 79?

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Leave it alone.  

[Melatv 789]

If you torque wrench is straight on like in the (FSM) picture you have to reduce the setting --- but if your torque wrench isn't and is 90 degrees with the tool as the red line you don't have to reduce it --but it's no biggie if left that way --  like Fish has said -- we are not going the the moon

Edited April 18, 2020 by Melatv

[Melatv 789]

Hi Slowindown:: Here is a way I do it when using a extension straight on to the socket -- I have made some extensions to reach places on ATV's where the Torque Wrench can't be placed. If the Torque is 90 degrees to the extension you don't have use the formula. Use the center of the Torque Wrench handle when using the formula.

Edited April 19, 2020 by Melatv

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Not to scare you slow' , cause it ain't rocket science as Mel says , LOL ,  I have personally never had one come loose on me , I did see a buddy's son in law  not do a good job tightening his swing arm bolts with a brand new  extended swing arm , we were back in the woods and his swing arm fell out , he broke the engine case and oil was every where , EPA should have been called , LOL  , swing arm was all bent up by the time  we drug that bike back to the house and that bike never did run again , I know cause I got parts off of it --- I remember that one well now , we tied up his swing arm with a ratchet strap and a piece of rope , we made a train with two bikes tied to one another and then to him and every now and then another bike give him a push  when we got stuck 

[slowindown 494]

Wow!

 

Well I had paint pen marked the right side allen pin so I would know it hadnt moved when I torqued the ring.  So I'm going to keep an eye on that paint mark for a bit before I put a plastic cap on it (had to put one in my parts order anyway as it had fallen off over the years).  But I think everything is in there as it should be.  I've done almost 10 miles just around the house, pasture and woods here and it seems fine.