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shwagy357

Honda 300 Rear Pinion Wear

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Please see the attached pictures of my pinion wear.  Is this wear ok? It also looks like the pinion end of the pinion has dug some material 1/16" out of the case on the bottom of the needle bearing.  The teeth on the pinion and ring gear look ok?   

Resized_20200416_062906.jpeg

Resized_20200416_062917.jpeg

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 the end of the pinion where the needle bearing rides is shot , there were rear end kits that came with a bushing that you pressed onto the pinion to bring it back , not all kits come with that piece and don't know if you can get it any more , even if you were to get that sleeve  to repair the end , the teeth are rough , I wouldn't use it ---the ring gear looks rusted out also , where the seal rides needs to be in good condition or it will never hold oil and keep dirt and water out 

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That ring and pinion in the link are good quality.  You may or may not be able to reuse your old shims.  You'd need to be prepared to use different shims to get the teeth properly engaging in the diff.  Most people don't use shims at all, or reuse the old ones without any issue, but if you want to do it right, and want it to last, you should be prepared to reshim.

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this kind of gives an idea of the teeth mesh  between the pinion, and ring gear ...  thanks for the pics ...can you post pics of the case, and pinion straddle bearing ? 

image.jpg

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Thank you all for the help.  As you can see from the pictures my first swing at the needle bearing removal was a miss....my welds broke.  Wilson the picture above helps alot thank you!

2.jpeg

3.jpeg

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your welcome. .... from the looks I'd say that case is a lost cause .... the people i would talk to is ether shade, fish, or toodeep.. I've never delt with a worn out atv pinion bearing ... others (yes) but not one of those... 

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When i weld to the race I use a rod that will fit in the race and have it at an angle on the first weld, start welding on the rod to the race. I then straighten it while it's still hot and do another weld on the other side. You can get more of the race on the first weld with the rod at an angle instead of just the top of the race.

 

If your building a good trail/multi use machine I would replace the gear set. If it's just going to be a mud/water machine I would throw a bearing kit in it (aftermarket), fill it full of grease and go for broke.

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before you tried welding to the needle bearing race, and yank it out, did you get the wire clip out from around the needle bearing ?, if you did not ?, no amount of welding is gonna work !, all your gonna do ( as you have already from the looks of the case ), is ruin the case, because it will just shatter the case where the bearing rides.

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Something looks all wrong with the welds down there --- it looks like you welded around the top of the race and let it flow over onto the aluminum housing ????   like Shade said the ring has to come out before the race will move when I weld the bolt in , I will grind the head of a bolt round so it fits snug into the race , tap the bolt all the way down and tried to get my weld in the middle of the race , not at the top edge 

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The clip is still in there.  I have not been able to drive the clip around at all using a small punch, so I am going to try welding to the bearing again to turn the bearing until I can access the end of the clip for extraction.

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1 minute ago, shwagy357 said:

The clip is still in there.  I have not been able to drive the clip around at all using a small punch, so I am going to try welding to the bearing again to turn the bearing until I can access the end of the clip for extraction.

if you don't get that wire clip out ?, you will end up busting the case where the bearing rides, YOU MUST GET THAT CLIP OUT !.

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I was able to get the clip out and get bearing. Thank you for all the tips.  Is the case salvagable?  I have a new ring and pinion on order.

20200416_190120.jpg

20200416_190111.jpg

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1 hour ago, shwagy357 said:

I was able to get the clip out and get bearing. Thank you for all the tips.  Is the case salvagable?  I have a new ring and pinion on order.

20200416_190120.jpg

20200416_190111.jpg

maybe my bad eye is still messed up, but do i still see the outer race down inside the case ??.

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shwagy' , I see you weld , with a welded bracket , a rear end from other models will go right under that 300 you got , much better design and reliable rear end , double bearings on the ends of axle tubes , does a much better job of keeping oil in and water and dirt out , if you can find a used one for a good deal  , you will come out cheaper and have a better rear end in the long run -----  I have been running 300s for a while now , I got a lot of them , and have gone thru so many OEM 300 rear end rebuilds and replacements  that  it is unreal , since switching rear ends , I have never blow one up yet ----- pic: 300 with a TRX250 Fourtrax rear end 

2000 300 012.jpg

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glad you got it out .i saw this  video ... about a 3rd of the way in ... he tackled that pita pinion bearing but drilling holes in the case ? i guess this is one way to skin that kitty.

 

 

 

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Yea, i watched three you tube videos on the needle bearing removal, and they did not mention removing the clip on any. Thank you all for the tips.  I'd do it differently next time for sure.

 

Fishfiles, do you usually acquire the 250 rearend by itself or as part of a donor bike?  What would be a decent price for a 250 rearend?

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