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FarmboySC

Honda 300 Fourtrax 1999 4x4

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16 minutes ago, retro said:

1+ regulator/rectifier may have a shorted diode inside it. Unplug it to verify. You are testing for current draw correctly using your multimeter, don't do it any differently.

 

Also check (unplug) the diode that protects the CDI from voltage spikes from the solenoid. Its up front in the junction box I think..?

 

EDIT:

I can't remember... does 300s have a small diode in the Neutral light circuit like the old TRX350s had?

If so check that using a multimeter. Current should flow only one direction through a diode.

 

yep, they have that diode.

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I am pretty sure , but got the ( CRS = can't remember .... ) , when that diode goes out , it won't spin over from the starter button ----

 

I don't know if it makes a difference , but when I put the meter on one to look for a draw , I go from the positive post to the cable   after taking the cable  off , would guess you get the same reading on the ground side 

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I'm CRS too and I think you're right.  Many ways to skin a cat.

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Update on this 4wheeler I'm working on. First of all thanks for the info and what to check on my issue. As of now I'm just keeping the ground wire unhooked from the battery and connecting it when I use it. Today I checked voltage on battery after it sitting for 2 days and ground cable disconnected from battery and it was 12.97. After riding around for approximately 45 minutes(mostly in first and second gear checking on cows), disconnected the ground cable and voltage on battery is 13.51. It fires up as soon as you hit the start button and runs as smooth as a new one. Only change is oil pressure light is not working at all but I definitely have oil pressure and it is full of oil and changed oil and filter and air filter bout midsummer. Didn't get to check drain on battery because I forgot to change my red lead from amp side to volt side when checking my volt on battery and I guess y'all know what happened. Still reads volts but not amps. I'll get another one when back in town. I'll eventually get around to doing some checks on the amp drain but right now I'm just keeping the ground cable off until I use it.

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The oil light is a temp light, not pressure. That could be as simple as the wire coming unhooked under the little black cover next to the right (got it correct this time.) foot peg. Do you notice any sparks when hooking up the battery cable?

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Ok on the light. No spark at all when connecting the ground cable. I've tried to make it spark by rubbing it several times but no spark. That's what got me confused. That's old school stuff on older vehicles with no electronics but no spark

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Farmboy , that temp light should light up when you turn the ignition on and stay light for about 5 seconds then go out , the temp light is usually controlled by the alarm box up to around 97 I think , I got a 2000 and it doesn't have an alarm box on a 2000 model , I see you have a 1999 , the temp light circuit  might be made into the CDI on yours , not sure , you can look up under the front fender and see if you have two boxes or one  ---- the light bulb on your temp light is a push in style on a 2000 , could be a bad connection , you know about dielectric grease ?    ---- if you take the wire off the sensor , where TooDeep described it being  ,  and with the ignition on , ground that wire out , the light should come on 

 

if you disconnect one plug at a time with your meter hooked between the terminal and wire of the battery ,when you hit the plug that goes to the curcuit that is drawing voltage you will see the meter needle move  

 

just because a battery has 12-13 volts doesn't mean it is good , a load tester is needed to put a load on the battery , they will show 13 and fall flat on their face when put under a load , does  your battery have plugs that can taken out and acid level checked , it might have a low cell 

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