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shwagy357

95 TRX300 Intermittent Ticking

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I noticed a slight ticking noise yesterday while in neutral.  I only hear the ticking when I hit the throttle about 1/4".  It sounds like the noise is coming from the right side of the atv around the oil line running to the top end.  I adjusted the valves but the ticking continues, next I pulled the chain tensioner off.  Pic below is after I pulled the tensioner out and reinserted it by hand, would the lack of gap here indicate that I need to replace the timing chain?

 

How do you recommend I go about resolving this issue?  Should I pull the whole motor or just pull the top end off?  Any and all advice is much appreciated.

Chain Adjuster.jpeg

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Being able to put the tensioner in that far without retracting it would indicate a stretched timing chain. You will want to verify the operation of the tensioner though. If its broken and sliding in when you do the test it can throw the results off. Make sure when you push on the tensioner it doesnt move at all. It should lock in place until you remove the screw on the end and turn the small flat tip screw inside. Sadly this is where my help stops because i havent ever changed a timing chain on anything but sport quads. I will tell you to do it on a sport quad it doesnt require removal of more that the valve cover and clutch side cover. Among other things like the gas tank and fenders and such. Plenty of utility quad guys on here who will chime in shortly.

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I checked the operation of the chain tensioner and it appears to be working properly.  

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you can do a timing chain in the frame , you need to pull the head off to get the chain guide out to make clearance to get the chain out , pull the side cover and the clutches out , take off the right foot peg to clear the cover coming off , not too bad a job ---- while it is open check the connecting rod and bore 

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3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

you can do a timing chain in the frame , you need to pull the head off to get the chain guide out to make clearance to get the chain out , pull the side cover and the clutches out , take off the right foot peg to clear the cover coming off , not too bad a job ---- while it is open check the connecting rod and bore 

cant check the rod and cylinder bore without pulling the cylinder from lower engine, wont work with just pulling the head.

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cam chain is toast !. top end ( rocker box, head ) will need to be removed. unless your going to check the shape of the cylinder and rod clearance ?, then do not pull the cylinder !. you will need a top end gasket kit, tube of yamabond or hondabond, right side clutch cover gasket, and a D.I.D. cam chain. you will also need a 27mm socket , air impact, clutch puller tool to pop the centrifugal clutch off the crank. 

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If I wanted to check the shape of the cylinder and rod clearance should I pull the engine out? Or can I do that while it is still in the frame?

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2 minutes ago, shwagy357 said:

If I wanted to check the shape of the cylinder and rod clearance should I pull the engine out? Or can I do that while it is still in the frame?

can be done with engine in frame :-).

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side note: you will need to remove the exhaust pipe ( muffler ) system in order to get the top end torn down :-).

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1 hour ago, shadetree said:

cant check the rod and cylinder bore without pulling the cylinder from lower engine, wont work with just pulling the head.

While it is open. Top off.   Means  I would slide the jug off. And check things out.  Me personally. I’m putting a fresh bored jug and piston in it. That’s  If the rod is good.  If the rod has play then your top end ain’t going to last long at all.  100 hour and you will be doing it again.    Took me a couple of jugs to learn that.  Today it is free advice.   Rod play and you will pay. 

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I've got the head and rocker cover off.  Please take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. 

 

Are the indentions on the pistons where the valves once struck the piston?

 

How does the cylinder look?  The motor did not smoke prior to me tearing it down.  Should I send this off to G&H to bore out  and get a piston replacement or wait tell later?  I would like to defer the expense if possible, this projects already gone alittle over budget;)

 

If the cylinder needs boring, I am definetly going to make sure the rod is good fist.

Piston.jpeg

Cylinder.jpeg

Cylinder2.jpeg

Edited by shwagy357

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from what i can see ^^ ?, looks like the piston to cylinder is out of spec ?, only way to test my theory is to remove the cylinder, remove the top ring, second ring, and slide them down in the cylinder to check end gap. over budget ?..ha !, you haven't even touched the surface yet when it comes to atv repairs !..lol.

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oh, and those dents you speak of ^^ ?, those are made into the top of the piston from the factory, all oem pistons have those.

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I see what Shade  is saying , on the left side the pic ,the piston is close to the bore and on the north west to south south east it looks like there is a gap , divide the two gaps and it looks to be  too much 

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The rod does not look too good.  Is the rod supposed to be two different colors like that?  Looks like I will need to go ahead with reboring the cylinder, replacing the piston, and replace the crankshaft assy.

 

Any tips on sourcing another crankshaft assy?

 

Are there any other parts I should look at replacing?

 

Is it best to remove the engine to replace the crankshaft? 

rod2.jpeg

rod1.jpeg

piston.jpeg

Edited by shwagy357

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2 hours ago, shwagy357 said:

The rod does not look too good.  Is the rod supposed to be two different colors like that?  Looks like I will need to go ahead with reboring the cylinder, replacing the piston, and replace the crankshaft assy.

 

Any tips on sourcing another crankshaft assy?

 

Are there any other parts I should look at replacing?

 

Is it best to remove the engine to replace the crankshaft? 

rod2.jpeg

rod1.jpeg

piston.jpeg

all rod's are that color, thats from the factory when they temper them. what you need to do is use the wrist pin to check the play at the top, use the very end of wrist pin stuck into the top of rod, flush it to one side, lift up and push down on long end, and movement ?, if so ?, the rod is bad. then lift up and push down on whole rod, your checking for any play at bottom where it attaches to crank at the bottom bearing at crank. if you have to replace crank ?, the engine has to come out, and split to replace crank rod. power sports nation for a used crank, or check with mr crankshaft to have the rod replaced. if crank has to be replaced ?, you will need a complete engine gasket kit. tube of yamabond or hondabond, do not use rvt sealant to seal the rocker box !.

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