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14 minutes ago, shadetree said:

 

Oh ok. So your telling me it can run great, not smoking at all, tap when it gets hot & still be valve seat & need a whole head. I would think if it was valve seat it would be smoking

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3 hours ago, Bassman8990 said:

Oh ok. So your telling me it can run great, not smoking at all, tap when it gets hot & still be valve seat & need a whole head. I would think if it was valve seat it would be smoking

valve seat has nothing to do with it not smoking.

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Go figure the main mechanic thats very reasonable i want to take it to is on vacation till june 26th 🤦‍♂️. Hmmm. Guess I'll be looking for another shop to take it to lol...my luck

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Yea i could probably do the valves myself, but tearing into the engine..nada! I can do basic stuff but Im not mechanically minded to be able to tear into an engine if need be. But what would be the easiest less messy way to drain to tank so i can remove it? I know thete are 3 hoses that run to the top of the fuel pump 

Edited by Bassman8990

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Can yall give me advice on drain & removing the fuel tank? I just dont want to make a huge mess & have gas spraying everywhere. I saw on YouTube one guy turned his fuel off then just disconnected the reserve line from on top of the fuel pump then attached a fuel hose to it then opened reserve & drained fuel from tank into a gas jug?? That sound right? Or one way of doing it

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First of all, Shadetree is right about the early 350 Rancher valve seats coming loose, but it's not something I have ever heard/seen on a 420 Rancher.

 

Some Hondas have what is called "the Honda tick".  Regardless of what people say about it being "normal", I don't think that it is.  That said, I've seen Hondas with the "Honda tick" go years and years and run just fine with no adverse issues.

 

A lot of the conjecture out there is that it's the decompressor on the cam rattling around. 

 

https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/2012-tic-tic-tic.90634/#post-744722

 

https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/ticking-smoking-resolution-ahhhh.111666/

 

If your machine runs good, and doesn't smoke, I'd ride it and live with it.  Just keep an ear open and if it changes, that would worry me and prompt me to tear into it. 

 

Do definitely adjust your valves, and make sure you do so on the proper stroke (read Shadetree's tutorial on adjusting valves).  That's easy.  If it's still ticking, monitor it and run it.

 

My 06 Foreman has ticked since I went through the engine in 2013.  Drove me nuts (see Rich450ES's comment in the second link above).  I tore it down, put it back together, adjusted the valves 20 times.  Still ticked.  I finally said forget it and ran it.  Still runs fine now, still has the tick.

 

 

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Change the plug cap. They get more resistance the more they heat up causing it to run and sound funny. 

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Casper...Yea ill change the yelow cover & possibly the ignition coil while im at it.

 

 @ jeepwm69.. i noticed the manual mentioned tightening the nut on the valve adjustment to 9inch pounds. Is torquing it to that exact spec necessary? I only ask because i can't find a torque wrench that goes that low. Most im finding is 20in/lbs, even on the quarter inch Torque wrenches..

 

Mine doesn't smoke at all, nor is it a hard start which is why im hesitant to check the valves but i am going to run some seafoam through it since there is carbon build up on the butterfly of the intake on the throttlebody 

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1 hour ago, Bassman8990 said:

Casper...Yea ill change the yelow cover & possibly the ignition coil while im at it.

 

 @ jeepwm69.. i noticed the manual mentioned tightening the nut on the valve adjustment to 9inch pounds. Is torquing it to that exact spec necessary? I only ask because i can't find a torque wrench that goes that low. Most im finding is 20in/lbs, even on the quarter inch Torque wrenches..

 

Mine doesn't smoke at all, nor is it a hard start which is why im hesitant to check the valves but i am going to run some seafoam through it since there is carbon build up on the butterfly of the intake on the throttlebody 

I don't use a torque wrench.  Just snug it up with a small 10mm box end while I hold the screw in place with a small flathead.

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3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I don't use a torque wrench.  Just snug it up with a small 10mm box end while I hold the screw in place with a small flathead.

wha ???..you dont use a torque wrench ???..omg !!!..rofl.

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Haha. Oh & When i take the back cover off to turn the crank clockwise to get the correct TDC, is that a special tool or just a normal socket that i put on the emd to turn it?

 

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2 hours ago, Bassman8990 said:

Haha. Oh & When i take the back cover off to turn the crank clockwise to get the correct TDC, is that a special tool or just a normal socket that i put on the emd to turn it?

 

just a 17mm socket will work.

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Got it thanks. Also on that nut, i know it has to turn clockwise but that is closewise when looking at it from the read? Also Anyone know what size hex head i need for the cap for the Sight hole for TDC

Edited by Bassman8990

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15 minutes ago, Bassman8990 said:

Got it thanks. Also on that nut, i know it has to turn clockwise but that is closewise when looking at it from the read? Also Anyone know what size hex head i need for the cap for the Sight hole for TDC

clock wise is..well..clock wise !..lol. to the right !. the allen head i think ?..is a 6mm if i remember right ?..please dont sue me if i'm wrong !..lol.

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Hands on a clock always move right to left when you're standing in front of the clock looking at it's face.

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So i got to timing hole & as im turning the crank clockwise i see 2 lines on the crank, then i keep turning clock wise & even see an F, then continue to turn clockwise then a short turn i see the T. I check the rockers & no movement, rotate 360 degrees back past the F & to the T again. The F looks just like the T, i accidentally set them on the F initially, then realized of turned crank again 360 degrees & set them on T when both rockers did have play in them, haven't started it yet, need to replace a fuel line. Hopefully i didn't throw off the timing, if so will have to take it to shop to get it retimed🤦‍♂️. Getting to the exhaust valve was a pain, probably wont ever do that again lol

Edited by Bassman8990

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On 5/27/2020 at 12:42 PM, Bassman8990 said:

Casper...Yea ill change the yelow cover & possibly the ignition coil while im at it.

 

 @ jeepwm69.. i noticed the manual mentioned tightening the nut on the valve adjustment to 9inch pounds. Is torquing it to that exact spec necessary? I only ask because i can't find a torque wrench that goes that low. Most im finding is 20in/lbs, even on the quarter inch Torque wrenches..

 

Mine doesn't smoke at all, nor is it a hard start which is why im hesitant to check the valves but i am going to run some seafoam through it since there is carbon build up on the butterfly of the intake on the throttlebody 

Hi: What service manual are you using?  9 inch pounds ?????? --- it should be torqued to 13 Foot Pounds

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@ melatv, yea my bad, my manual says 13, i missread. I did get the valves set but haven't started it yet because of having to get a section of fuel line that needed replaced. At first i accidentally set the valves on the "F" mark instead of TDC "T" mark, thought it was the T at first. So i turned the crank clockwise & set valves on the compression TDC. I'm hoping i didn't screw the timing up, by setting it at the F at first instead of TDC

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Throw the torque away , it is going to  cause you more trouble then help ------  I see you replied to Mel on the 9 to 13 torque value , but  do you realize  the difference between inch pounds and foot pounds , there are 12 inches in a foot 

 

The only bolts I use a torque wrench on are the head bolts and the swing arm bolts  

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@Fishfiles Yes i missread & i know the difference lol. I hardly ever used a torque wrench on anything, but i was just asking, i know somethings its best torque & some it dont matter.

 

Edited by Bassman8990

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Also  there is , how accurate is the  torque wrench you are using , torque wrenches  should be re-calibrated periodically ----- I personally don't have much faith in  using cheaply made ones ,  from places like harbor freight 

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19 hours ago, KoolBreeze said:

Hands on a clock always move right to left when you're standing in front of the clock looking at it's face.

ummm..what kinda clock you got ??..lol. ALL clock hands move left to right when you face it head on.

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