KoolBreeze 62 Posted June 1, 2020 Checked the cam chain adjuster on my 350D this afternoon and there is about 9/32” (0.290 or so) left, so looks like a new cam chain is in the near future. Am I pushing it to continue using it for a while longer? Had planned to adjust the valves this week also but haven't done it yet. I've never torn into the engine on it, but from what I’ve read/watched, replacing it will require removing the head cover, cam chain adjuster, right case cover, centrifugal clutch, clutch, and oil pump. Is that about right? What’s the best way to hold the clutches without the special tools? Is there anything else I should consider doing while I’m at it, like valve guides or etc? It doesn’t use any oil and runs great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcsman 1,381 Posted June 1, 2020 I can't give you any advise on the cam chain on that model, there are those that can help you there. I can tell you when I tore my 450 apart I used my impact wrench to remove the large clutch nuts, I assume the 350D has the same thing. The impact does the work for you without needing to hold the clutches from spinning with a normal socket. I borrowed a pulley removal tool to pull the clutches off the shafts. Hope that helps..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted June 1, 2020 Impact is the way to go with the clutches and you will most likely not need to hold the clutch with any more than your hand and a rag or glove , if that , just remember one is left hand and one right hand threads ----- I would lap the valves and put new stem " seals " , Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KoolBreeze 62 Posted June 1, 2020 13 hours ago, Fishfiles said: Impact is the way to go with the clutches and you will most likely not need to hold the clutch with any more than your hand and a rag or glove , if that , just remember one is left hand and one right hand threads ----- I would lap the valves and put new stem " seals " , Great, I assume by that getting them torqued to spec isn't necessary? Probably been 30 years since I've lapped valves. haha! But yeah, it doesn't look like much more work to pull the head, do that and check things out. I'm sure the seals/stems are leaking somewhat after all of these years. Speaking of valves, are there aftermarkets available? I noticed the exhaust valves are "unavailable" from Honda now, like a lot of other parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87Iroc 344 Posted June 1, 2020 If you don’t have a valve spring compressor I bought a 16 dollar one on amazon and it worked fine for my 450 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted June 1, 2020 14 minutes ago, KoolBreeze said: Great, I assume by that getting them torqued to spec isn't necessary? Probably been 30 years since I've lapped valves. haha! But yeah, it doesn't look like much more work to pull the head, do that and check things out. I'm sure the seals/stems are leaking somewhat after all of these years. Speaking of valves, are there aftermarkets available? I noticed the exhaust valves are "unavailable" from Honda now, like a lot of other parts. I don't use a torque wrench on the clutch nuts , lapping the valves is easy enough , don't know about after market valves , I hoard up use parts myself Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,880 Posted June 2, 2020 11 hours ago, KoolBreeze said: Great, I assume by that getting them torqued to spec isn't necessary? Probably been 30 years since I've lapped valves. haha! But yeah, it doesn't look like much more work to pull the head, do that and check things out. I'm sure the seals/stems are leaking somewhat after all of these years. Speaking of valves, are there aftermarkets available? I noticed the exhaust valves are "unavailable" from Honda now, like a lot of other parts. here ya go --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-1986-1989-TRX-350-D-Intake-Exhaust-VALVE-SET-ALL-4-MADE-IN-JAPAN/274379266994?hash=item3fe2475bb2:g:6VYAAOSwqNdeoxiD . oem are discontinued, these are all over ebay. if i were you, i would jump on these fast !. and these folks ship fast. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KoolBreeze 62 Posted June 28, 2020 I wanted to run leak down test before I tear into the top end and was curious how much air pressure you pros use? I took it up to 50psi and the tester shows it’s leaking 2 psi (1%), which is going into the crankcase past the rings. I think that’s likely acceptable but maybe I should use more pressure? I was holding the flywheel bolt to keep the piston up and sure how much pressure it could take? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,880 Posted June 28, 2020 2 hours ago, KoolBreeze said: I wanted to run leak down test before I tear into the top end and was curious how much air pressure you pros use? I took it up to 50psi and the tester shows it’s leaking 2 psi (1%), which is going into the crankcase past the rings. I think that’s likely acceptable but maybe I should use more pressure? I was holding the flywheel bolt to keep the piston up and sure how much pressure it could take? i don't do leak down test, by the time i put new rings in, service the valve seats and valves ( clean them ), fresh hone or bore, new piston, i don't worry about it not running. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KoolBreeze 62 Posted July 4, 2020 On 6/28/2020 at 1:14 PM, shadetree said: i don't do leak down test, by the time i put new rings in, service the valve seats and valves ( clean them ), fresh hone or bore, new piston, i don't worry about it not running. 10-4. It runs great now, but I'm just trying to decide what all I should to do to it when I replace the timing chain. Was thinking I might get by without removing the jug and sending it off for checking/boring but maybe I should just do the whole top end while I'm at it, I don't know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
